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64 413 bored out to 426?

Unless someone pulled it out of a truck. The only way to know for sure is to check out the internals, especially the valve reliefs on the cylinders.

Either way its NOT a matching numbers car and keep that in mind when you're talking price with the guy. Its either a true '62 max wedge block with a set of aluminum heads and all the rest of the goodies, or someone cloned one using a truck block and a bunch of aftermarket parts. What carbs are on it? Edelbrock or original AFB's? Do the heads have true Max Wedge ports and is the intake an original or reporoduction. Lots of stuff to check before you pay top dollar. But if it checks out (and even if it doesn't) its a good find.

A real max wedge has an oil pan unique to that motor and was not installed on anything else. All max wedge blocks have AAQA embossed on the front of the block on the drivers side.
 
A real max wedge has an oil pan unique to that motor and was not installed on anything else. All max wedge blocks have AAQA embossed on the front of the block on the drivers side.
I agree there are other unique features on Max Wedge engines. My response was purely referencing the casting number which had been used for both trucks and Max Wedge blocks. The correct casting number is a good sign but not definative proof that the block is a true Max Wedge.

There are a lot of things with this particular engine that throw up red flags for me, not the least of which is it's a '62 block in a '64 chassis with aluminum heads. Before the OP pays Max Wedge $$$$ he wants to ensure he's getting a true Max Wedge engine and for my money I'd pull a head and the oil pan off and check the internals.

And I agree, Greg's site is a great source. ;-)
 
Before you plunk down top dollar for a Max Wedge car, check EVERYTHING! There are hundreds of fake Max Wedge cars out there and a lot of unscrupulous people willing to tell you its real when in fact it isn't. A clone will be worth about half (at most) what a true Max Wedge car will be worth. Remember, buyer beware.

Get the VIN. Whether it is a B body Plymouth or Dodge, Darryl Davis has every max wedge built from 62-64 by VIN. If it is not in one of his books it is not real. One other thing. What are your plans for this car? I can tell you for a fact, don't listen to what anyone tells you unless it is this. The car is barely streetable. It does not like to idle very long, and forget stopping and sitting in traffic or red lights. It was built for one thing, the 1/4 mile. It has no fan shroud, and it has a four blade fixed fan. Why MOPAR made that motor available in any B body right off the dealers floor is beyond me. Mom was not going to run down to the grocery store for a few things. If a seller says he drives it on the street and it runs on pump gas, don't walk away, run.:grin:
 
Get the VIN. Whether it is a B body Plymouth or Dodge, Darryl Davis has every max wedge built from 62-64 by VIN. If it is not in one of his books it is not real. One other thing. What are your plans for this car? I can tell you for a fact, don't listen to what anyone tells you unless it is this. The car is barely streetable. It does not like to idle very long, and forget stopping and sitting in traffic or red lights. It was built for one thing, the 1/4 mile. It has no fan shroud, and it has a four blade fixed fan. Why MOPAR made that motor available in any B body right off the dealers floor is beyond me. Mom was not going to run down to the grocery store for a few things. If a seller says he drives it on the street and it runs on pump gas, don't walk away, run.:grin:
I agree.
 
its in a 63

the motor is in a 63, its a tribute/clone car, not a matching #'s - I just wanted to confirm the casting #s were in fact off a Maxwedge, they did a nice job on the restoration --- price seems fair, true rotisserie resto, correct body/wheels/tranny/interior/etc I just know ive seen some shady motor builds in my search and I really had no idea about the legitimacy of the numbers the seller gave me... FYI - original owner/builder recently passed so the communication has been with someone helping the widow, hence the difficulty in obtaining "exact" details. Everything is done now, I bought the car and am waiting for it to show up... will put up some pics when it gets here, thanks to everyone on here for the daily education.
 
the motor is in a 63, its a tribute/clone car, not a matching #'s - I just wanted to confirm the casting #s were in fact off a Maxwedge, they did a nice job on the restoration --- price seems fair, true rotisserie resto, correct body/wheels/tranny/interior/etc I just know ive seen some shady motor builds in my search and I really had no idea about the legitimacy of the numbers the seller gave me... FYI - original owner/builder recently passed so the communication has been with someone helping the widow, hence the difficulty in obtaining "exact" details. Everything is done now, I bought the car and am waiting for it to show up... will put up some pics when it gets here, thanks to everyone on here for the daily education.
Congrats on your find! Glad you checked things out and know exactly what you purchased. Always the best way to go. Enjoy it.
 
The block material is different beween the max wedge and street wedge

Do you mean the higher nickel content that Greg Lane refers to? If so, yes, maybe. But you can't tell visually.

All max wedge blocks have AAQA embossed on the front of the block on the drivers side.

AAQA is also present on street wedge blocks. Not trying to dispute your comments. Just saying it can be tricky to know for sure if you have a real max wedge block, from what I understand.
 
A real max wedge has an oil pan unique to that motor and was not installed on anything else. All max wedge blocks have AAQA embossed on the front of the block on the drivers side.

And here it is .
 

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Hell, People Are Using 440 Blocks Today For Max-Wedge Motors Because They Either Can't Find A Real 426, Can't Afford A 426, Or The Bottom End Is Much Stronger Than A Maxie! Your 413 Is Fine...Remember Those Motors Started Out As 413's In'62. You Can Buy 413 Or 426 Superstock Decals For Your Valvecovers! Real Max-Wedge Castings Numbers Are 2406730 And 2532230 For The 63-64 Blocks! At Some Point In Your Max-Wedge Build Your Going To Have To Determine That Your Using Real Parts(For The Purist) Or 440 Parts For A Look Alike And Stronger Engine!
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My block has a cast date of 10. 2. 62 the number is 2205697-2 which means it's a 62 to 65 hp street block it's also a Aaqa which mean high nickel content the main news on guys use 440 blocks is 413 an 426 max w blocks had valve reliefs in the cylinder bore don't need them in a 440 bel to use max w heads
 
Valve Notches in block

On any Max wedge 413 or 426 cid & a bore less than 4.25, the notch is required to clear the large 1.88 Max Wedge exhaust valves from hitting the bore/deck. The 440 block and a bore of 4.32 will clear the 1.88 exhaust and no notch is required. My Max Wedge started as a 413 standard bore, bored .060 over to a 4.250, used a 4.150 stroke crank for 472 cid and required the exhaust valve notches in the block for use with Stage 1 Max Wedge heads.
 
okay, need some guidance... If I have a 1964 413 that was bored out to a 426 with 11 - 1 compression, is that a "Max-wedge"?
It has the factory Mopar crossram dual quad manifold, and stage 6 aluminum heads... what emblems should be on the valve covers?

Thanks for the help... sort of new here and the site is awesome.
vr,
Dan
First off, the Max wedges were all about the heads, cross ram to fit and camel back exhaust manifolds which had 3 inch exits. The heads had 1.88 exhaust valves which means the blocks had to have a notch in the side of the cylinders to provide room for the valve opening. With that said, there is only one way to replicate a Max Wedge and you have to have an original set of heads that went with it as the cross ram needs to fit as well. Any Raised block can be used, the notches can be machined for the heads. This is the only way to say you have a max wedge clone.............Good luck finding the heads, ex manifolds and original cross ram with original carbs and if you do get ready to pony up with the bucks!
 
.Good luck finding the heads, ex manifolds and original cross ram with original carbs
there's several sets on ebay right now.. Both as individual and as complete top end..............
 
Updated Info:

There Where Five 413 Blocks Built During The 60's--1959 Thru 1965: Block Casting #1852029 Is A 413 Max-Wedge & Truck Motor-This Is A True Max-Wedge Block! Casting #2120529-#22005697-#2468030 And #2658836 Were An Assortment Of 413 Blocks For Passenger Cars And The Industrial Motor.

The -4 Number At the End of The Casting Number Is The Tooling Revision Number, Meaning, That During The Pouring Of These Blocks, Meant How Many Times The Tooling (Core Molds) Have Been Reconditioned Back To the Proper Specs. The Molds Wear Out As They Are Used, So Quality Control Keeps The Tooling Specs True. The Earlier The Number, The Better The Casting.
I not sure how you can make that claim with certainty, in say if the crankshaft unmachined cast webs are slightly thicker because the worn sand-casting tool allows for a thicker web, how is that not the better casting?
 
I'm putting 426 decals on my 318....going to wow all the Chevy guys who won't know the difference....

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I not sure how you can make that claim with certainty, in say if the crankshaft unmachined cast webs are slightly thicker because the worn sand-casting tool allows for a thicker web, how is that not the better casting?
The -number is the sand core box # used to keep track of any defects that may arise when using a certain core box.

The core boxes are filled with sand and are refilled with fresh sand after each pour.

The core boxes are simple cast boxes...the internal passages that allow the molten steel to make a certain shape are remade on every pour. One box may be used to cast a steering box today and a brake drum tomorrow.

The core room was responsible for building the core box before each pore.

There is a lot of confusion about the sand casting procedures. I have two sons who, combined, have 30 years experience working in the the largest grey iron foundry in the US.

Just wanted to clear up some details.
 
okay, need some guidance... If I have a 1964 413 that was bored out to a 426 with 11 - 1 compression, is that a "Max-wedge"?
It has the factory Mopar crossram dual quad manifold, and stage 6 aluminum heads... what emblems should be on the valve covers?

Thanks for the help... sort of new here and the site is awesome.
vr,
Dan
Are you sure they are Stage VI aluminum heads? Those are raised port heads and a factory cross ram wouldn't fit with those heads on a 413 block. It would fit those heads if they were on a 383 block. Do you have pictures of the engine?
 
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