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64 Plymouth looking to loose some weight for NSS

bishop

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I have a 1964 Plymouth I race in NSS/A and looking to lose some weight. I'm thinking about some front end parts, IE upper & lower control arms modified K frame maybe even some fiberglass doors from Sled city. I already have fiberglass bumpers, decklid, hood & finders Car weighs 3155 with me (I weight 235) in it already. Anyone using aftermarket control arms?

Thanks Brian
 

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I have a 1964 Plymouth I race in NSS/A and looking to lose some weight. I'm thinking about some front end parts, IE upper & lower control arms modified K frame maybe even some fiberglass doors from Sled city. I already have fiberglass bumpers, decklid, hood & finders Car weighs 3155 with me (I weight 235) in it already. Anyone using aftermarket control arms?

The factory upper arms only weigh about #7. I was able to knock about #18 off the K-frame. Replace the steering column shaft with tubing #5, strut rods #3 with tubing. 1/8" Lexan (except windshield) no regulators with straps to move the windows saved #85. The master cylinder bracket under the dash was tied to the cage dash bar so co the master cylinder reinforcement plate could be left off. Carbon fiber bumper brackets #2 total for all. No undercoating anywhere, even the insides of the 1/4 panels. The stock dash cluster was removed and the gauges were mounted in 1/8" aluminum w/ stock bezel, All dash switch have been replaced with lighter replacements (stock heavy knobs have been retained). My "stock seats" are#18 each with the floor brackets. Honestly your cars as light as anyone that I know of with a B-Body that still retains stock stuff. You're 200 lighter than me empty 2920-3120. I'm all steel except the hood. My scoop is heavy #15. I also run a heavy fan (#12), fire system (#20) and 2 batterys (#45 each), heavy bat cable #7,mega block + #75,also a lot of cage tubing (25 pieces). My old school American wheels weigh a ton also. The rears with slicks, no tubes are #52 each. So you can see there are a lot of little areas that can help. I would bet by removing steel bumpers, 2nd battery, mega block and adding your wheels that mine could be down to 2950 even with steel doors, fenders, and deck lid.
Good luck Doug
 
3155 with you in it... I can only dream to be that light.

Our 65 Coronet is 3615 with me in it and I weight around 200 lbs.

very nice car by the way!

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DVW,

Is your K member tube or a stock one that's been cut? Do you have any pictures?
 
It's a cut stock part. I cut the spot welded flanges off, and rewelded the seam. Hole sawed the inner corners to give them a radius when the center was removed for pan clearance. Bent the center filler panel around a socket. Added tube support for the steering box. Fabbed filler patches for the Kidney shaped holes in the bottom. metal finished it and added the tie down loops.
Doug
 

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dvw That K-Member looks great, nice job/fab work....
 
Nice work DVW! That's what I want to do this winter if I get time. Our Dodge has a Hemi K Member in it which has to be heavier than a small block or a 6 cyl K member with out any mods.
My Belvedere was a 6 cyl. car but had a small block in it when I got it, so I'm thinking about taking it out and cutting mine then swapping him.
Our car has never really worked well, if I can take 20+ pounds off the nose I know it can't hurt.

Is yours a small block or a big block K-member?

Also, did you tack the member when you were cutting and welding so it didn't distort?

Thanks
 
I would cut one flange and then tack. Mine was a 6 cylinder as well.
Doug
 
If yours is a V-8 don't cut it up!They are getting harder to find! Use a /6 unit. dvw that is nice looking piece you build! You might think about marketing those!
 
I'd buy one....
 
You need a fiberglass dash from Sled City Fiberglass and a real light weight k member , ss/ah style, from John Holt race cars here in Columbus. I have a core support for sale and you can pick up your dash too.
 
You need a fiberglass dash from Sled City Fiberglass and a real light weight k member , ss/ah style, from John Holt race cars here in Columbus. I have a core support for sale and you can pick up your dash too.

Thanks Larry that fiberglass dash looks nice and a set of your doors is going to help cut down some weight
 
Been awhile since I read up on the rules for NSS....have they 'lightened' up on them over the last few years? I took my 66 Belvedere from 3370 to 2900 when I first got it and have done much more to it since then but some of the things I did were not legal in NSS at the time.
 
Been awhile since I read up on the rules for NSS....have they 'lightened' up on them over the last few years? I took my 66 Belvedere from 3370 to 2900 when I first got it and have done much more to it since then but some of the things I did were not legal in NSS at the time.

If it doesn't look "wacked" it will fly. If you run F/X (9.75 or quicker the rules get more liberal)
Check here
http://www.nssracing.com/rules/nmca-rules/
Doug
 
If it doesn't look "wacked" it will fly. If you run F/X (9.75 or quicker the rules get more liberal)
Check here
http://www.nssracing.com/rules/nmca-rules/
Doug
Yup...was looking at C/FX but decided that my wallet wasn't fat enough. That was a few years ago and was even accumulating parts to turn my car into a 67 because the carb rules were more favorable than it was for a 66....
 
Is it legal to run a racing battery? Between those 2 batteries you're running, i guess you're in the 80 to 90 lb range. Some of those racing batteries are like 10 lbs. there's 70 to 80 lbs right there.
 
How about acid-dipping the whole car to shave off weight?
 
3155 with you in it. Thats pretty light already. My 63 Sport Fury is just over 3700 lbs with my 180 in it. But I have never tried to take weight out of it. Its all steel with frame connectors and a rollbar added but I do use a glass hood. How much more weight are you looking to get off the car ? Ron
 
Are you running the stock fuel tank? Fuel weighs 6.25 lbs per gal, so managing exactly how much fuel you carry might net you some significant savings. Not sure what your rules say but maybe a small auxiliary cell will save some weight, even if you keep the oem tank too and just valve it off and siphon it dry on raceday.
 
It seems to me that it's easier and cheaper to make more power than it is to remove weight with expensive fiberglass parts and the labor of cutting out metal. I have seen 4000 lb cars run 10.0's and they are streetable.

Very nice K member modification by the way!
 
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