65 B Body Axle Seal Install Green Bearing

[khryslerkid]

I posted earlier today about my right rear green bearings apparently having gone to crap. Found metal shavings/grease inside the brakes. Doing a search came across this post so thought I'd add to this old post with a couple questions. I put these in about 3 years ago and be damned if I can remember taking out the thrust spacer or not. I seem to gather in these posts there's differing advice on this. At the time had also swapped out the sure grip 3:23 to 3:55 so had the rear out but no memory of taking the spacer out. One post seems to say don't as it can impact axle action on turning? As I'm about to pull the axle out, what's the rule on this...does it require removing or no? Axles bolted into place nicely far as I remember. Thanks.

It's recommended to remove the thrust buttons when useing Green bearings on the clutch style center section.

You can apply a dab of heavy grease or putty on the end of the axle, install it, remove it and see if there is clearance or not without removing the buttons. If no clearance then they need to come out.

If the axle is too tight when installing them, because of the thrust buttons being in place, the bearing won't seat in the housing and the retainer plate will distort when tightening the bolts.

It's also advised to check the spline depth when installing axels also.

 

[Ron H]

Thanks - I pulled the axle seeing the buttons are intact and it had seated in fully without any issue. I'll try the tip about checking this. The outer plate remained flat but the inner oil seal I had left intact looks beat up. My concern may be the bearing is rotating in the housing bore. The bearing takes effort to turn it, no free play, with it and the action feels bumpy turning it. Now I'm no expert and sadly can't remember a lot when I put the bearings in...I'd think the bearing should turn easily even though sealed bearings would create more resistance and have a smooth as glass feel? And reckon this could cause the race to turn in the bore. I'm figuring to pull the left axle out to find any comparisons. I gather there's Loctite products that are a gel and don't harden that can be put in to help the bearing set and other tips have said to punch the bore creating raised points to trap the bearing. I might have to borrow my brother's bore gauge and see what's what here.

 

[MW 413]

Thanks - I pulled the axle seeing the buttons are intact and it had seated in fully without any issue. I'll try the tip about checking this. The outer plate remained flat but the inner oil seal I had left intact looks beat up. My concern may be the bearing is rotating in the housing bore. The bearing takes effort to turn it, no free play, with it and the action feels bumpy turning it. Now I'm no expert and sadly can't remember a lot when I put the bearings in...I'd think the bearing should turn easily even though sealed bearings would create more resistance and have a smooth as glass feel? And reckon this could cause the race to turn in the bore. I'm figuring to pull the left axle out to find any comparisons. I gather there's Loctite products that are a gel and don't harden that can be put in to help the bearing set and other tips have said to punch the bore creating raised points to trap the bearing. I might have to borrow my brother's bore gauge and see what's what here.

Use Loctite Green bearing Lock. We used it all the time in Commercial truck wheel ends when the bearing races had spun in the wheel hub land bore. You can peen the bore area also but still use the green Loctite bearing lock.

 

[Ron H]

Use Loctite Green bearing Lock. We used it all the time in Commercial truck wheel ends when the bearing races had spun in the wheel hub land bore. You can peen the bore area also but still use the green Loctite bearing lock.

Is this the type that doesn't harden if need be to replace another bearing? I find a feeling of a flat spot turning the bearing, you know a hang up in the action when turning it, so reckon a roller must have got a flat spot. I'll take it apart to check more. Well, not a convincing experience for the durability with green bearings. I don't think these have 2,000 miles on them. Thanks.

 

[MW 413]

Is this the type that doesn't harden if need be to replace another bearing? I find a feeling of a flat spot turning the bearing, you know a hang up in the action when turning it, so reckon a roller must have got a flat spot. I'll take it apart to check more. Well, not a convincing experience for the durability with green bearings. I don't think these have 2,000 miles on them. Thanks.

Green bearing lock does dry hard. Much harder than Red thread locker. To remove just heat lightly with a torch. It takes up any clearance and keeps the race from spinning in the land. I've used it as thread locker also instead of red and never had any problem removing the bolts later.