• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

65 Belvedere voltage regulator

Timmayy

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
3:58 AM
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
1,966
Reaction score
6,759
Location
Tiverton RI
So I'm driving around my wagon this weekend and the gauge is going crazy. The alternator was recently rebuilt. I just ordered a firewall regulator from the local parts store. Is there also one for the gauge cluster? Before I go and poke around behind it I figure I would ask first. I'm hoping to save my back and neck from crawling under the steering wheel. Thank you all.
 
There is a IVR for the fuel and temp and oil pressure only just the gauge is wired directly into the feed. Make sure the wires are tight they do loosen and can be intermittent. Worth checking out, Worst case a wiring fire.
 
Last edited:
. There is a resistor for the gauge cluster that can fail but that will affect the temp and fuel gauge.
Amp gauge is on it's own. Yes if a problem with the regulator the gauge will flutter.
 
So I should just replace the regulator on the firewall and clean and di-electric grease the amp gauge terminals? I have a separate aftermarket gauge for temp and oil. The fuel gauge seems fine.
 
Me I would look at the guage. Did you check the voltage at the battery first to see what it is?
 
No but as I was driving Sunday night my headlights were going bright and dim. And not like normal. My amp gauge was pinned high then would go low then high again.
 
No but as I was driving Sunday night my headlights were going bright and dim. And not like normal. My amp gauge was pinned high then would go low then high again.
IMO....IF, you are using a MECHANICAL voltage regulator, its highly likely that the internal points are sticking closed, causing high alternator VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE (pinned at max charge, bright lights), then, when the sending voltage became high enough and long enough, the internal points would seperate, causing the alternators output to go to zero (dim lights and ammeter to show discharge). The fix, without re-wiring and using a 1970s isolated field alternator is to install a electronic regulator in place of the mechanical regulator.....they work very well. Just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
Why does everybody want to put dielectric grease on conductors? It is made to insulate electron flow. Antioxidation grease is also available that promotes electron flow.
Mike
 
Why does everybody want to put dielectric grease on conductors? It is made to insulate electron flow. Antioxidation grease is also available that promotes electron flow.
Mike
Personally, my preference would be the anti-oxidative grease. Years ago,y I aquired some anti-oxidative grease (it was yellow in color made by Dow-Corning called No-Ox) that was used in the buss bar installations on 5 KV and 15 KV metal clad switch gear, to prevent corrosion yet promotes conductivity between bolted buss sections. Just a "little dab will do you"..... good on battery terminals as well...... just talking out loud.....
BOB RENTON
 
No but as I was driving Sunday night my headlights were going bright and dim. And not like normal. My amp gauge was pinned high then would go low then high again.
IMO....IF, you are using a MECHANICAL voltage regulator, its highly likely that the internal points are sticking closed, causing high alternator VOLTAGE and AMPERAGE (pinned at max charge, bright lights), then, when the sending voltage became high enough and long enough, the internal points would seperate, causing the alternators output to go to zero (dim lights and ammeter to show discharge). The fix, without re-wiring and using a 1970s isolated field alternator is to install a electronic regulator in place of the mechanical regulator.....they work very well. Just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
My 65 alt. only has 2 wires not 3 like the later ones. Sorry electrical is my serious weakness.
 
No but as I was driving Sunday night my headlights were going bright and dim. And not like normal. My amp gauge was pinned high then would go low then high again.

My 65 alt. only has 2 wires not 3 like the later ones. Sorry electrical is my serious weakness.
The TWO TERMINAL electronic regulator is a DIRECT REPLACEMENT for the mechanical regulator you have in service.....it even looks like the origional unit. I believe that NAPA and others, maybe O'Reilly's also and the internet or EBay has them for sale....approximately $20..... Take your old regulator with you when visit the parts stores.
BOB RENTON
 
The Wells VR706 is a solid state replacement for the Mopar points type regulator
Last one I bought came from Auto Zone.
 
The Wells VR706 is a solid state replacement for the Mopar points type regulator
Last one I bought came from Auto Zone.
I will write that down for future reference.
I did install the one I got from the local parts store. All is good with the universe again. Went to a local cruise with some friends. No more issues.
 
So let me get this straight, I can just install a Wells VR706 to any of my pre 1970 cars without modifications?
 
Great thanks. I'm going to order a few of them and keep them in the cars for spares. Thank you for all the help.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top