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67 Belvedere Hardtop inching it's way back on the road again!

6-david-5

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For reference, the following is my Welcome Wagon post I made on this car:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/another-b-body.103339





The spoiler on the story.... I got it running!

The lengthier version:
So the city was giving me warning tickets to move my car off the street. Me, my son and my one cool neighbor helped me push it onto my driveway. My other neighbor, who is NOT cool ratted me out to the city, because it is against ordinance to have a dead car in your driveway--it has to be a running vehicle when in public view. Although code enforcement was decent to me about the matter, I had a new obligation nonetheless....

Attempting to start this car was futile, and attempts to do so would yield flames shooting out the carb. I suspected camshaft timing or cylinder head condition given the dubious compression readings I was getting.





I pulled the left cylinder head so I could inspect #3 & #5. Nothing readily visible, but if you flipped the head and filled the combustion chambers with "PB Blaster", #3 and #5 only would leak out of the exhaust-side! Pulled the valves, and the exhaust seats were wearing oblong but the valves were OK. I lapped those valves in thoroughly and cleaned/reassembled the head. It didn't look perfect, but certainly "good enough for government work"!

This engine was rebuilt sometime in the distant past using one of those chrome timing covers with a separate bolt-on timing tab, and I got to learn just how "accurate" those timing tabs can be. I ripped the balancer of my old 361 block and took the factory timing cover off and cleaned it up. I also ripped the balancer off the 383 in the car and removed the chrome timing cover/tab. The 383 balancer was lined up with TDC on the chrome cover when removed. The timing chain looked like this:



I mocked-up the 361 front cover/tab asm. and the 383 balancer. The timing then read apx. 7 deg. BEFORE TDC! I whipped out a dial indicator and set it up on #1 piston. When I had #1 dwelling at it's highest point, TDC on the factory cover lined up also! The chain was also correct with the dots lining up! I reinstalled the chrome timing cover and remarked TDC on the chrome timing cover since it had a new seal.

I screwed the motor back together and reached the point to where I could start it. STILL, flames coming out the intake!

I read this thread for perspective:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/440-wont-start-syndrome.183596/

From that, I decided I needed to suspect my ignition system. I was taking for granted the signs that the engine had run before, and so I thought to now that the distributor was best left undisturbed since it was probably one of the only remaining constants with respect to the engine having run prior to me getting it. The engine was fully assembled, but I decided to pull the valve covers only and "feel" the rocker tension on #1 & #6. They felt roughly the same! I remembered the lifters were probably fully bled-down since this thing has been sitting for more than a year. I just said "F it." I'm giving the distributor a "180" since #6 felt a tiny-bit-looser than #1. Then a miraculous thing happened: The damn car started!

Rough at first, but eventually smoothed out. The motor doesn't knock! Blow-by doesn't seem excessive. Virtually no ridge up top! Engine has .060-over pistons, but I don't know what they are. I also saw this bit of history from the previous rebuild:



(Who knew Montgomery Ward rebuilt engines???)

I have since given it a rudimentary tune-up, and haven't even touched the carb or the points in the distributor. I have since driven it, and this sucker is pretty torquey and STRONG! I took it out for tires last Sunday, and this is the car for now:





215/70/15 front. 235/70/15 rear.

The car now runs, and will now have the "right" to be parked on my driveway.

Will be back later.
 
Monkey Wards, Sears, Pennys and others had a lot of car stuff available way back when. Even Roscoes/Straps/Gats/Heaters!
 
Not sure if I got your story right, Sounded like the dist was 180 off. Hope all runs well now.
 
Not sure if I got your story right, Sounded like the dist was 180 off. Hope all runs well now.

..... Exactly right. I could have started this thing LAST YEAR when I first got the car if I simply flipped the distributor!

.....Except, I wouldn't have been able to set a proper tune-up. I would have been marveling on how I could only set no more than 28 deg. adv. ALL IN!

You can't take ANYTHING for granted. Especially, when the lady selling you the car tells you that "my ex-boyfriend took the carb and the battery when I kicked him out!" Apparently, he also flipped the distributor!

Thanks for your message.
 
From the angle of the picture of your timing gears it looks like the cam gear was off 1 tooth. You may just need to turn the crank a fuzz more. Those marks should be lined up exactly straight up and down. Glad you got her running.
Also, it looks like you are using a pipe wrench to roll the engine over. Dude that is a no no. Look how chewed up the end of the crank is. I always use the harmonic balancer bolt with an extra washer or 2 on it to keep it from bottoming out in the hole to turn them.
 
Last edited:
From the angle of the picture of your timing gears it looks like the cam gear was off 1 tooth. You may just need to turn the crank a fuzz more. Those marks should be lined up exactly straight up and down. Glad you got her running.
Also, it looks like you are using a pipe wrench to roll the engine over. Dude that is a no no. Look how chewed up the end of the crank is. I always use the harmonic balancer bolt with an extra washer or 2 on it to keep it from bottoming out in the hole to turn them.

You know, I reviewed the photo of the front of the crankshaft sticking out, and I see why you said "pipe wrench"! It is just the reflection of the timing chain on the end of the crank!

Totally agree: no pipe wrenches on the end of the crank! I was using the balancer bolt with a 1 1/4" socket.

..... And if I continue to enjoy driving this car with this motor in it (the likelihood is there), the stock cam is COMING OUT. I have a double-roller on the shelf & a Comp 270/.470 I might slide in there.

In the meantime, the marks did line up the right way after this whole TDC-issue was addressed.

But the end of the crank was actually shiny & smooth!

Thanks for your perfectly-understandable concern!
 
Congrats! Now you need to introduce your mopar to you dick neighbor with a big smokey burnout!
 
Right about this time of year in 2007, my dad and I bought an Austin Healey 100-6 (3000), it had been off the road since 1968. It wouldn't start. there were two wires in the carb that were touching that the diagram in the manual CLEARLY showed them being separated by the insulator. I separated them, re-assembled everything and it started right up. Dad has been enjoying his 49000 mile un-repainted Healey ever since.

This is why I do my own work.

Congrats on the belvedere!! She's totally awesome!

sjd
 
Right about this time of year in 2007, my dad and I bought an Austin Healey 100-6 (3000), it had been off the road since 1968. It wouldn't start. there were two wires in the carb that were touching that the diagram in the manual CLEARLY showed them being separated by the insulator. I separated them, re-assembled everything and it started right up. Dad has been enjoying his 49000 mile un-repainted Healey ever since.

This is why I do my own work.

Congrats on the belvedere!! She's totally awesome!

sjd


Big thanks!

The only thing that would have improved your story is if you did that on Father's Day! I'll bet I know what he thinks every time he gets in that car.
 
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