67 Belvedere with factory AC

[Sixpactogo]

I'm not sure why the valve in the heater core is there. I suspect it is there to shut off the flow of hot water through the heater core when you switch to AC. I only suspect that to be the case because the temp control is seperate from the other controls and you could have the Water valve open and if you switch to AC, you would have one working against the other so when you turn on the AC, it will close that small valve on the heater core to stop the water flow. Also I'm not sure what the sensor on the capilary tube does. I suspect the capilary tube sensor must have something to do with monitoring freeze up on the evaporator or something. I have my heater box out and did a restoration on it and was surprised to find the valve on the heater core. Anyway, there are 3 vacuum actuators on the right side of the heater box that do various things. They are all in cahoots with the controls. One opens the defroster doors when you switch to defrost. One opens and closes the heater door when you are in heat mode. That is the actuator that opens and closes the small valve on the heater core. I think the 3rd actuator opens and closes the door for the air vent and runs the dash vents in AC mode. It is a busy complicated system but works very good. I have lots of pictures of my heater box so if you need more, let me know. PM me.

 

[ws27]

Very weird, it almost looks like a bypass to the heater core, like maybe half the heater core works, then more kicks in when the valve is open. It's teed and the actual core has three hose connections.

I'm going to have to really research this, I hate working on something I don't totally understand. This has really opened a can of worms for me.

Thank you again.

I think I might call Classic Auto Air and see if they can shed some light on the subject.

 

[A383Wing]

do you have a 67 service manual to look at?

 

[ws27]

do you have a 67 service manual to look at?

I do and it wasn't clear. But I have to admit I only skimmed over the vacuum schematics. I will take a little more time on them. Maybe it will make sense. I couldn't find a description of the operation like you can for other systems.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Couple A/C parts on ebay price seems cheap if you need them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1965-19...ash=item1c7a8bf779:g:J3gAAOSw5cNYfpvp&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1962-19...ash=item5d6d07bfbf:g:s8sAAOSwo4pYfptm&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1966-19...ash=item5d6d07b49f:g:G3IAAOSwt5hYfppT&vxp=mtr

 

[Richard Cranium]

Pardon me for butting in, but where does that copper "wire" go to & can it be removed either from the valve at the firewall or, if not, do I have to take a bunch of stuff apart to get out from under the dash?

Also, on my car (68 Charger), when I unscrewed that thin tube from the larger a/c hose, I noticed that the other end of the thin copper tube (parallel with the ballast resistor) just slipped into an angled fitting on that same big a/c hose. I know that this can't be right as the system would not be tight. What's supposed to hold it place and all that pressure inside the system?

 

[Sixpactogo]

Richard, You should be able to get the heater valve in or out without removing a lot of stuff under the dash. The copper tubing with the sensor and plate mounts in the bottom front of the heater box. You should be able to fish it through without too much trouble. Here is a pic of where it mounts in the heater box. If your heater valve is out of the car, The easiest way to put it in is to fish the copper tube and sensor in to where you can reach it under the dash. Then hook the control cable up to the valve before you push it all the way in and install the 3 screws. If you don't have enough slack on the control cable, you may need to unhook it from the dash control end. Mine was long enough.
As far as the copper tube under the hood, It is only a temperature probe. It slides into the small tube that is in the large hose fitting. It is not pressurized and only goes in 4 or 5 inches. Mine had a rubber cap that slides over the end to keep dirt out. If yours is missing, you could cover it with some air seal or play dough to keep the dirt out.

 

[Richard Cranium]

As far as the copper tube under the hood, It is only a temperature probe. It slides into the small tube that is in the large hose fitting. It is not pressurized and only goes in 4 or 5 inches. Mine had a rubber cap that slides over the end to keep dirt out. If yours is missing, you could cover it with some air seal or play dough to keep the dirt out.

Thanks for the info. Got the cable off already & it looks like the sensor should be easy to get at. Regarding the copper tube under the hood; how does the system stay pressurized with that tube being held in with only play dough?

 

[Sixpactogo]

Thanks for the info. Got the cable off already & it looks like the sensor should be easy to get at. Regarding the copper tube under the hood; how does the system stay pressurized with that tube being held in with only play dough?

That 1/8" tube is not open to the system. It is sealed on the end and is only a conduit for the temperature probe.

 

[Richard Cranium]

That 1/8" tube is not open to the system. It is sealed on the end and is only a conduit for the temperature probe.

Thanks, but the tube doesn't fit tight; why would n't the pressure in the system blow by the tube and play dough sealant?

 

[Sixpactogo]

Thanks, but the tube doesn't fit tight; why would n't the pressure in the system blow by the tube and play dough sealant?[/QUOTE

The copper tubing is the temp sensor. The 1/8" tube that is welded into the 3/4" tubing is sealed on the bottom end and is not open to the high pressure or freon. It is only a well about 5" deep to enable the copper temperature probe to be able to be exposed to the temperature inside the 3/4" tube. If you were to push that copper tubing into the 1/8" tubing you will hit bottom and not be able go any deeper. You don't need any play dough or sealant of any kind except to keep any foreign material or dirt from entering that 1/8" tube surrounding the copper tube. If you could seal off both ends of the big hose and blow air into the 1/4" fitting, you would not get any air out of the 1/8" tube because it is not open on the bottom end.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. Thanks for the explanation!

 

[Sixpactogo]

I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. Thanks for the explanation!

You're welcome. Now get it put back together so it will be ready for those 90 degree days that will be here before ya know it.

 

[Richard Cranium]

You're welcome. Now get it put back together so it will be ready for those 90 degree days that will be here before ya know it.

Just sent the heater control valve to Jim Tucker in CA today & the compressor went to Classic Auto Air yesterday.

 

[bmelvin1998]

Hi guys, I'm converting a 67 Belvedere with factory AC to the modern compressor, lines, condenser, drier, and expansion valve.

The water shut off valve leaks, and is currently bypassed. I need to do something with it. I could send it out and have it rebuilt, but that would require taking the heater box out. Something I'm trying to avoid. At least I think you have to remove the box. Has anyone ever taken the valve out of the firewall from the engine side? It kind of teases you, but there is supposed to be a cable and capillary tube attached.

I'm wondering what other ways anyone here has tackled the problem. I'm not worried about factory appearance, just function. So I was thinking of trying to put a vacuum operated one inline and splicing it to the appropriate hose inside.

I'd love to hear anyone's ideas.

I have a 67 Charger with factory AC. I was able to remove mine from the engine compartment. I believe 3 bolts. as it came through the fire wall I had to remove the cable from the temperature control line. A I recall I put it in the same way, however I had access from the dash when I reinstalled it. I had JC's refurbish it. http://www.jcauto.com/ Good luck