67 Coronet 500 - Doors won't lock! Help!
- Thread starter TekHousE
- Start date
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Damn, Fresh out!
yea you would not get your door unlocked without that rod so I would not advise it....
In a pinch you could make a rod out of something. Let me know what the guys say and send me a pm.
yea you would not get your door unlocked without that rod so I would not advise it....
In a pinch you could make a rod out of something. Let me know what the guys say and send me a pm.
TekHousE
Well-Known Member
I do not know..
Maybe it's loose because of not being connected? It only slightly moves..and that is only the drivers door. I have had the door cards off, there are no linkages. Believe what you want though mate.
Maybe it's loose because of not being connected? It only slightly moves..and that is only the drivers door. I have had the door cards off, there are no linkages. Believe what you want though mate.
67GTX440
Well-Known Member
Look in the bottom of the door for the rods You most likely are going to need the rods and any retainer clips. I had this same problem with my 67 GTX when I bought it. I had to buy one rod from a salvage yard ($35 plus shipping) and slightly bend the other to get the locks to work properly. One was missing, one was not, but both doors would open when you pushed the outside button with the lock pushed down. In addition, the door locks were keyed differently from the ignition and I had a key to neither door. I ended up having to buy a matched door lock and ignition key set and having the glovebox and console locks rekeyed to match the trunk key to get everything working properly.
If my car is any indication, you are in for a lot of surprises ahead. Folks performed all types of atrocities to keep these old cars running in the absence of money and any part sources. They were mostly cars worth under $500 at the time not worth any investment to fix anything correctly. If you lived in the country, you had no auto parts store and this was before reproduction parts or the internet. Welding equipment, bailing wire and duct tape would take care of most things. I had an uncle who had an old Plymouth with a "three on the tree" that he drove for five years with a pair of vice grips replacing the shifter that had fallen off.
When it shot craps he parked it in the field and bought another on just like it so he had a parts car. Don't know why he had Plymouths. Most country folks preferred Fords as they had parts that would also interchange with the tractor.
If my car is any indication, you are in for a lot of surprises ahead. Folks performed all types of atrocities to keep these old cars running in the absence of money and any part sources. They were mostly cars worth under $500 at the time not worth any investment to fix anything correctly. If you lived in the country, you had no auto parts store and this was before reproduction parts or the internet. Welding equipment, bailing wire and duct tape would take care of most things. I had an uncle who had an old Plymouth with a "three on the tree" that he drove for five years with a pair of vice grips replacing the shifter that had fallen off.
When it shot craps he parked it in the field and bought another on just like it so he had a parts car. Don't know why he had Plymouths. Most country folks preferred Fords as they had parts that would also interchange with the tractor.
Last edited:
thatgreatday
Member
Working through this on my 68' Coronet this weekend. Adding this hoping it will help others. Thanks for the previous threads. One of the hardest parts to see is my image 8292 because I have my window glass installed. The picture 8292 may be slightly turned as I had to get my phone camera in a crazy position. This tooth (A) cannot be sitting in front of (B) or the black push button will continue to pop back up. (A) must be able to get on top of (B). It is the movement of (B) jamming against (A) (like in picture) that allows the outside chrome door latch button to be pushed from the outside when locked, without allowing the door to open. The primary connecting arm must be checked (disconnected) to ensure it is allowing the mechanism it attaches to, to FULLY lower (B) so that (A) can get/sit on top of (B). My connecting rod was not allowing the mechanism to fully lower so I filed out a slight elongation to the lower hole in the rod. Now all is well.
Last edited:
Pre '68 or '69, if you lock the door when open, you must press the handle button when you close the door. After '69 or '70 all you had to do was lock the door and close it.
Similar threads
