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67 GTX And Non-Ethanol Gasoline

67GTX440

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Gas in my area is 87, 89 or 93 octane ethonol blend. I run the car on 93 and it seems to run fine. Anything less than that and it tends to run on after shutoff. Non-ethanol in my area is about the same price as 93 octane, but is only 89 octane. If I run non-ethonol 89 octane, will I need to run an octane booster? If so what brand is recommended? Should I expect the car to run a little cooler on non-ethanol 89 octane with an octane booster added?
 
This one of those "been there...done that" topics. In my area, we also have 91 octane. I have found that no matter what type of cheap or high dollar octane booster I run with any combination of 87 -89, the car still runs like s.... I should mention, it is a 440 putting out close to 600 hp, so I never really expected it to run well on the lower end octane ratings. I did not seem to matter which booster I used, or for that matter how much I added. I added the booster to the 91 and believe I noticed a difference. More like running the 93. It is my opinion that the lower octane non-ethanol is crap. I believe that the tanks that it is in had ethanol in them at some time and that the H2O the ethanol absorbed ends up in the bottom of the tank. I always add ethanol/water remover and stablizer in the 91 and 93 only as a precautionary measure. I notice no difference when added, but I don't expect any difference, only if the car sits for weeks/months with the same gas in it. In this case, I believe the stablizer works and the ethanol eliminator adds protection with the crappy gas sitting in the lines and carb. It is my opinion that if you really want to maximize performance of a high performance engine, get your hands on some high dollar racing fuel. This is blended for high performance engines. Second choice, and much less expensive, is adding aviation fuel. Not sure of the ratio, but I tried 2-4 gallons in a full tank and the response was notably better, especially when using 91 octane. I think if we could believe the R+M/2 octane rating of 93, that would be all a street/strip engine would want. You have watch the ratio on AV to Pump. To much AV will through off the other chemicals found in Pump gas that is designed for our engines. I would not exceed a ration of 1:5. You can go more, but you would be better off buying racing gas. Bottom line is that the mix of AV will add 1 or 2 octane levels and smooth out most engines and get good performance out of them. It is much better than trying to figure out how many bottles of octane in a can is needed to do the same. Here is a quote I found interesting, and a chart that tells the story on Av/Pump mix. This is only my experience, here is a site that will answer your question from people that seem to be in the know. Sorry for it being a site that references vettes.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/car-care/1509-everything-you-need-to-know-about-octane/

05-rockett-93-oct-blend-chart.jpg

Blending Race Fuel With Pump Gas

Adding a few gallons of race fuel to varying amounts of pump fuel is a popular octane-boosting method that enthusiasts use. We were curious what a race fuel expert would say about it, so we asked the Rockett Brand team. Here’s what they said:

“[Mixing race and pump fuels] is an okay thing to do, and much better than ‘octane boosters.’ It does not damage the engine, and improves the quality of the street gas. Octane numbers blend almost linearly, and we actually publish blending charts on our website for those who insist on doing this. For example, if you blend a 92-octane pump gas with a 100-octane race fuel in equal amounts, you will get a 96-octane fuel."
“Overall, I recommend that the user choose the octane that he or she needs, and not try to be a chemist and play with the fuel. Do you water down your drink before you consume it? Life is too short to drink cheap booze.”
 
Your problem is not octane related. You have a bad carbon build up in the chamber and it is hot enough to ignite the fuel. I also had a bad run on problem when I got my car. Fuel be damned, I had to shut down in gear and let the clutch out or it would still be running the next morning. :)

I'll give you an easy, cheap and permanent fix. Get a length of vacuum hose and a glass of water. WITH THE ENGINE AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE, plug the vacuum line into whatever vacuum port is not used on the carb and have an assistant run the RPM up to about 2000. Stick the other end of the vacuum line into the glass of water. Once the glass is empty (it won't take long), your run on problem will be history.
 
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As far as water at the bottom of storage tanks at the store i can tell you the pumps do not draw directly off the bottom so you are well above any water trapped. As far as i know stations check for water in tanks on a regular basis. There is a toothpaste like cream you put on the end of the tank stick. Put the stick down the fill pipe of the storage tank til it hits bottom. Pull the stick out and if the cream has turned bright pink there is water in the storage tank. They then can call in a company that can vacuum the gas/water off the bottom of the tank. It is bad business to have water in tanks and any good store chain is on top of quality.
 
I had to switch were I get my fuel.
Ethanol or not, the place I was getting mine was dirty and waterlogged. Plugged my fuel pump.
 
My 1969 440 seems to do fine on either 93 pump 10% eth or 90 non-eth.

I'm running an Edelbrock 750, so I believe it has neoprene seals and O rings. lessening the chance of those swelling, which is what seems to be the issue with ethanol in the top end of the fuel system.
 
My 67 GTX with a complete 68 GTX motor in it, has a bit of a problem with straight 93 Ethanol and 36 deg total timing. I have run some Supreme 130 octane booster in it which is real lead stuff, illegal on the street, raises Octane in whole points and not tenths and costs a lot. It's far removed from that stuff bought in Walmart.

http://www.hi-flow.com/hp016os.html

Pretty good stuff but I take care to not get any of it on bare skin.

Most recently I re-worked the distributor to provide 20 deg centrifugal advance with about 33 to 34 total advance and I'm trying that out to see how it works. I have plenty of advance for off the line response and pulling the timing back a couple degrees might actually help the top end.
 
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