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67 Installing firewall forward harness

CjVan

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Ok Saturday I'll be installing the engine and headlight harness in my 67 belvedere. And I need a bit of help... I have a color coded laminated wire diagram for the car already but I want to route and secure the harness in an OE fashion, does anyone have pictures of the engine bay with harness intact cause presently I have no relays or anything under the hood and I have a wireharnes with everything attched to it and ready to install

Also I have a digital ignition module (electronic points) how do I properly wire it into the factory harness still equiped for points.
 
Ok I got the harness installed but still no start or power when ignition is turned.

2 thing not hooked up. Neutral safety switch wasn't hooked up, and only ground wire on the coil is the negative wire from the digital points as well.

Will this prevent the car from getting power
 
do you have any power what so ever or just not starting im not sure how similar yours is to my 69 but off the batt positive thick wire goes to starter thinner wire goes to starter relay mounted on firewall and then goes into bulkhead connector once the power is through the firewall it goes straight to the amp meter in one side out the other before it touches anything else, this is where my problem was my meter was shot and would not let the voltage through it so for the time being i bypassed it untill i get farther along with my resto
 
Ah!!! The previous owner said this wire poking out the firewall is to the ammeter. I leftit unplugged, does it need to be hooked up to power the car. As it sits it had no power going to anything.
 
It had a big eye lid connected on it... Real short wire too, eyelid connector big enough to fit the silonoid. Should it be ok to install there?
 
Ok I got the harness installed with that ammeters bypass wire hooked in the ignition relay and she gets power to all the accessories like headlamps, and dash. However when I turn the ignition to start the engine, the starter doesn't make a sound (aftermarket hi torq) but if I use a jumper wire from the "ign" pin on the ign relay to the + on battery and I get no responce from the starter.

If I tap the jumper from the + battery terminal to the "sol" contact on the ign relay and the engine cranked like a champ and engine ran fine.

I did notice that a heavy gauge black wire on the middle connector at the bulkhead, I think it's bottom row second to the left (while facing front of car)... Well the pin on the bulkhead for that black wire is pushed into the bulkhead connector. I think it's the wire that (dash side) goes to ammeter and then to the alternator. Would this wire prevent the car from starting if there's a poor connection?
 
like i said i have a 69 so im not sure how similar ours are however that being said i have 3 harnesses that plug into the bulkhead connector the engine harness the light harness and one that has my wiper motor and a few other things on it now the original ammeter wire was on the same connector as my engine harness however the starter wire (the power to the other post of the relay) was a yellow wire that came off the connector that had all my lights so im guessing that if yours is like mine there should be a short (about 8" ) wire coming off your light harness that needs to be connected to your relay this is the wire that only has power with the key in the turn over position and this activates the relay putting power to your starter.

i hope this helps i would try to get you a picture however my car is in storage for another month or so before i bring it home to continue my resto on it
 
oh the wire you are looking for is only like a 14 - 16 gauge wire so its not as thick as the ammeter wire like i said on my car its a yellow wire
 
I checked that wire already, I even ran a jumper wire from the ign2 pin on the ignition switch to the ignition relay and still the same result (no starter activity). I think it's the chard up wire on the middle bulkhead connector, bottom row, second wire (black) on the left. I believe it comes from the other end of the ammeter and goes to the alternator. I'll have to use some needle nose pliers to pull the metal female connector more forward cause it's sliding back into the blulhead when the connector is pushed into it.
 
if the altenator wire is not connected and you have a good battery the car will run without it so that wire is not your main problem. when you started it earlier did you use a jumper from the pos to the same spot that the ign wire from the light harness plugs into the starter relay if you have power to the rest of your accessories i think you may have a bad starter relay if its not the relay it may be your your ignition switch
 
I discovered today the ignition relay is bad and there's a mickey mouse wiring going on with the ammeter, but halfway done and alittle backwards.


dad36421.jpg

Ok wire in bulkhead cavity "J" which links the ammeter to the ignition silonoid is spliced into the dash side of wire coming from cavity "P". I don't think this is the problem but I did notice in this (according to these intructions) http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
I still have to run a wire from the alternator stud connection to the constant + connection on the ignition silonoid. Especially because the female connector in cavity "P" has broken off.

Tomorrow I'll run a wire to it and see what happens cause I have a switch hooked up to the starter silonoid wire so I can start her up but I did notice the voltage doesn't increase while the engine is running (on my aftermarket voltage gauge) so maybe wire "P" is the final problem... Aside from the new ignition silonoid.

I'll post an update tomorrow

and to answer the neutral safety question, I left the neutral safety switch wire disconnected from the ignition silonoid.
 
Did you ground the solenoid. I could be wrong but doesnt it get its ground thru the safety switch?
 
Did you ground the solenoid. I could be wrong but doesnt it get its ground thru the safety switch?

it dont ground through a neutral safety switch not all cars came with the safety switch. im not positive but i think they didnt start using them till '70. if it grounds at all its through the body when its bolted to the car
 
UPDATE: the wire mod from starter relay to the alternator stud connecton didn't work, I couldn't even get her started while that wire is hooked up so it's beyond me, time to have a shop work on it.

Well since there's alittle Mickey mouse work done on the under dash harness, I'll have to send her off to friends shop to have'em sort it out.
 
it dont ground through a neutral safety switch not all cars came with the safety switch. im not positive but i think they didnt start using them till '70. if it grounds at all its through the body when its bolted to the car
it's been awhile since i had my 67 R/T 4-speed i think when ever i would go to start it i would have to push in the clutch pedal in order for it to start i know without a doubt that my challenger was like that it was a 73 with a pistol grip just a thought cause so far nobody has said if the belvedere is a auto or manual :confused:
 
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