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68 plymouth, I moved my rear axle.

2 main problems, Too much negative offset on the rear wheels, worn out springs, high school rear shackles ( dangerous on a hard swerve or corner.) Shocks will be the wrong stroke as well.
Change the rims, re-arch the springs to the height you need. Solved.
 
2 main problems, Too much negative offset on the rear wheels, worn out springs, high school rear shackles ( dangerous on a hard swerve or corner.) Shocks will be the wrong stroke as well.
Change the rims, re-arch the springs to the height you need. Solved.
100%. I've had some shackle cars..
The factory kept them short and strong, with shouldered bolts , to keep them structurally square and solid.
70s shackles are ..
 
2 main problems, Too much negative offset on the rear wheels, worn out springs, high school rear shackles ( dangerous on a hard swerve or corner.) Shocks will be the wrong stroke as well.
Change the rims, re-arch the springs to the height you need. Solved.
I have new springs on it, read the whole part as I moved to the highest point on the shackles.
 
Highest

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Putting some weight on the springs will flatten them out and make the front segment longer. Your car looks mostly gutted, I would avoid messing with the stance until it’s nearly complete. It will change a lot, especially with tired old springs…
You read that part with I ordered new springs? Dose this look "gutted" to you? Asking for a friend.
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You read that part with I ordered new springs? Dose this look "gutted" to you? Asking for a friend.View attachment 1384704View attachment 1384705
You are getting defensive.
If you are annoyed with some members that are not understanding you, it would help if you wrote a bit clearer. Take a look at other member's build threads to see how to better communicate what you have done.
The members here love a good story on how a man builds his car.

Good luck with the car.
 
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The method I used to move mine back 7/8" was to just drill another locating hole on the spring perch. That way it doesn't push the shackles back 7/8" too.
 
built this when I was 15 had it ready to roll when I got my license,actually took it to my driving test [examiner wouldn't get in it], biggest shackles I could find,air shocks with 3" extentions,n50-14's on 14x10's and didn't know much about anything other than what I liked! old school yup and certainly not a sleeper look!
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built this when I was 15 had it ready to roll when I got my license,actually took it to my driving test [examiner wouldn't get in it], biggest shackles I could find,air shocks with 3" extentions,n50-14's on 14x10's and didn't know much about anything other than what I liked! old school yup and certainly not a sleeper look!
View attachment 1384741
Yes! That's a good look.
 
View attachment 1384655
Same size 275 60r15 I just prefer this stance.
That is about where my car sat as it was going together after paint...

Only real difference is 275/60/15's are a good bit shorter than 275/60/17's...

I have SS springs on mine and it was just too high for me...

After the back glass went in I added 1" lowering blocks and it was about right...

3 years later I added about 200# of stereo equipment it went down some more...

Wheel offset in combination with actual tread width is the key to making one look like it is really stuffed with tires...

My rear wheels are 17" x 9.5" with 5.5" backspacing...

That is what worked well with a tire that has an 11.25" section width...

A narrower rear tire can use a wider wheel...

If a high stance is all you want as long as nothing rubs a lot of this doesn't matter...

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I would like to with a bigger tire, but the selection is slim for 15s without it being a soft compound race tire. Not to mention the money factor.
You are correct,
275/60/15 = 27.99x10.83
275/60/17 = 29.99x10.83
both with the same side wall Hight of 6.5''
 
What new springs did you install?
When I installed MP springs on my 69 GTX I needed the 1" extended front hanger.
 
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