68 Roadrunner -- whats this one worth?

[shadango]

Sorry for the confusion shadango, that's my piece in the Webshots link. He was asking 7500 now its 7000 OBO. I didn't get the paint and bodywork before the floor pans etc either? It's reposted as of yesterday?

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1046270980.html

Yeah, that makes me wonder a bit.....

The fact that it needs an engine etc plus the floor pans , seems to me that it should be cheaper......or am I way off?

Cool looking shell , though.......

I found a yellow and black car like this for a simialr price, all done except for the drivetrain.......pretty car, but again, needs the whole drivetrain....

 

[69 Runner]

Motor and trans aren't that big of a deal, and unless you get carried away will cost less than paint and body work

 

[shadango]

Motor and trans aren't that big of a deal, and unless you get carried away will cost less than paint and body work

But it sounds like it also needs everything for the interior...

Could get pricey....

I emailed asking to see what is included with the car....

Ok...lame newbie question of the day: Are e-bodies "uni bodies" ?

I was told that if the floors are bad in a unibody, steer clear (by an experienced frame guy) ....as the floors are integral to the car structure......?? I just bought a wire-feed/MIG welder not long ago and itchy to try it out...but not if the car's structure is shot...

UPDATE:
Here are the pics he sent me....
http://s349.photobucket.com/albums/q391/shadango_bucket/nken%20b%20body/?albumview=slideshow

He doesnt seem to have any of the parts needed......so it is as it sits I guess....Seems like it needs a bit more than just exterior chrome and interior stuff....looks like it needs brake master, wired, etc....


I dunno....sharp car, but still a big project.....plus getting an engine, and hoping the tranny is good.

 

[eldubb440]

keepin that fresh paint nice while cuttin, welding, and grinding is going to be difficult

 

[hemirambob]

Is the yellow and black one the Satellite thats in Ohio? If so, that one looks really nice. Looks like less work too.

 

[shadango]

Is the yellow and black one the Satellite thats in Ohio? If so, that one looks really nice. Looks like less work too.

Yeah, thats it.

This orange one...just seems like a crap load of work for the price....yeah, exterior body is done.....but it seems to need EVERYTHING else....or am I just inexperienced and I dont see the potential here?

 

[shadango]

Just heard back from the guy....

it has the stock 8 1/4" rearend..and yes the drive shaft is there and in good shape....i have it in the trunk so the car could be pushed around easier if i needed to push it...it is the proper length driveshaft for the big block setup also...

all the wiring is intact in the dash and under the dash..and the dash and gauges are all intact..the heater box intact..it is also an air conditioned car so thats also present under the dash just need teh lines and condenser and evaporator outside...i have do have the 3 wiring harnesses that plug into the firewall in the engine compartment..but i moved recently and put alot of my belongings in a big 10x40 foot storage area and they somehow ended up in there..and last time i looked i wasnt able to find them and i doubt i can as i am not moving all my stuff out of there just to find those wires....but you can find them on ebay..they are all the same for the b-bodys...so youll probably need those 3 small harnesses,the rest is all there...as for plumbing..all the brake lines and gas lines are there...it does need a master cylinder..i never checked to see what condition the brakes themselves are in so im sure id put new shoes on it and wheel cylinders..but its all there and thats easy to do on these old cars and not very expensive...it will also need a gas tank....other than that thats about it

the rear tail lights are in it...dont have the reflective side markers....but you can find all this small stuff cheap on ebay ive found...

so yes pretty much what you see in the pictures is it...it just needs the small nickle and dime stuff to put it back together... all the main stuff is there

i estimated it will take about 2500 dollars to finish this car and make it nice..which aint to bad considering what youll have when its done

Gas tank, brake master cylinder, dash pad, rear seats, front seat needs recovered, headliner, door panels, side marker lights, wiring harnesses and such under hood, radiator.....plus the pans, a motor, maybe a tranny rebuild....the list goes on...Sounds like more than $2500 to me.....

Plus, wouldnt the 8.25" need swapped out for a 8 3/4"?

This is probably a good project for SOMEONE out there...but I am afraid its more than I want to get into.....

 

[74Satellite]

Just heard back from the guy....



Gas tank, brake master cylinder, dash pad, rear seats, front seat needs recovered, headliner, door panels, side marker lights, wiring harnesses and such under hood, radiator.....plus the pans, a motor, maybe a tranny rebuild....the list goes on...Sounds like more than $2500 to me.....

Plus, wouldnt the 8.25" need swapped out for a 8 3/4"?

This is probably a good project for SOMEONE out there...but I am afraid its more than I want to get into.....

Yes, all that will be much more than $2500, yes you would have to swap out the 8.25 if you are going to a Big Block. Yes it is an excellent project for someone, but he is asking too much, and still needs to much work. First and foremeost, why in the hell he would do the body and paint BEFORE the interior, and trunk eludes me....

If it were me, I'd move on and look for something else unless you have deep pockets.

 

[shadango]

I *am* glad I checked it out though......its near me and I would have been kicking myself for not at least inquiring.

I think I am finally becomming more objective and not egtting too wrapped up in a particular car that ends up not panning out...LOL

 

[hemirambob]

That Satellite looks like it's a good shell? You could find a 440 fairly reasonable and drop it in?

 

[69 Runner]

All Mopars of that era (with the exception of "D" bodies) were unibodies. Yes, the floor pans (including the trunk pan) are an intrigal part of the structure. It isn't a problem to replace them but it has to be done correctly (such as IF using a two piece trunk pan you cannot stitch weld it down the middle. The entire seam has to be welded, front to back)

I mean think about it. If done correctly you're doing exactly what the factory did, and there wasn't anything wrong with the structural integrity from square one.

 

[shadango]

All Mopars of that era (with the exception of "D" bodies) were unibodies. Yes, the floor pans (including the trunk pan) are an intrigal part of the structure. It isn't a problem to replace them but it has to be done correctly (such as IF using a two piece trunk pan you cannot stitch weld it down the middle. The entire seam has to be welded, front to back)

I mean think about it. If done correctly you're doing exactly what the factory did, and there wasn't anything wrong with the structural integrity from square one.

I get what you are saying....does it matter, though if its just a little hole to start or a whole floor needing replaced?

I am new at welding..picked up a Lincoln 175HD wire feed/MIG welder and havent had lots of practice yet....but not afraid to learn as I go....but if the floor is an integral part of the frame setup, I dont know if I would tackle a whole floor like this one needs....a small hole though I think I could handle....sure.....

The other thing....if the whole floor inside as well as the whole main part of the trunk floor is shot....doesnt that kind of indicate what the REST of the car must have had wrong with it?

 

[69 Runner]

The other thing....if the whole floor inside as well as the whole main part of the trunk floor is shot....doesnt that kind of indicate what the REST of the car must have had wrong with it?

Not necessarily. Take my 68 Dart Sedan. It has a perfect trunk pan, but the floors are shot. It had rubber floors instead of carpet from the factory. My (ex) Six Pack Challenger had perfect floors, but a bad trunk pan. It was a vinyl top car. In the case of the Challenger, it had no rust in the quarters, or anywhere else low on the car.

So does it really mean much about the rest of the car? Not really

 

[shadango]

So, let me ask (yet another) lame newbie question....

Are floors on a,b and e bodies as easy as the one seller says?

Like I said, I have a new welder and I aint afraid to use it...LOL....but I dont want to get into a project that I have to farm out to make safe....since you dont see floors, I figure that as long as I get them strong but maybe not necessarily pretty I would be ok....(not looking to build a show car, though I know that neatness counts regardless).....

I went out and bought some exhaust pipe adaptors so I can practice welding those together.....gona try and track down some old sheet metal to practice on too....not that I am looking to get into bodywork, but I figure that would be good for floor work....

 

[74Satellite]

When I first started welding, I bought a old flat hood from a junk yard and then cut it up and started welding it back together.....

 

[shadango]

Thats a real good idea! I was thinking old front fenders too...

 

[74Satellite]

my welds looked HORENDOUS at first, like some hocked a big old luggie on the metal and it coagulated or something...but after a bunch of practice its started pooling nice and I got the hang of it. Just have to practice and its always better to practice on something you have no intention of keeping....

 

[69 Runner]

Remember...all these panels were installed using SPOT welds. So what you need to do is remove the original floors (trunk pan, whatever) using a spot weld cutter. Then (at least what I'm planning on doing is) drill a bunch of holes in the new panels to mimic where the original spot welds were. Lay your new panels in, then weld the holes. You could go back over the top of the welds with a grinder to smooth them out, and hopefully make them look more like the original spots.