BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
Could be a pickup coil in the distributor? Not sure if it has one..
68 RR Still won't start
- Thread starter Mstone68440RR
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Mstone68440RR
Well-Known Member
Just installed a new cap and rotor ( wires are basically brand new ) and still no spark. Here is the like new old cap, notice the 8, 4 and coil ports are all discolored instead of shiny brass like the others? All wires were inserted fully and snug, what would have caused this?
Is there an easy way to do a reluctor test to see that the MSD is getting a signal from the distributor?
Is there an easy way to do a reluctor test to see that the MSD is getting a signal from the distributor?
BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
That resembles an arching situation in those terminals.. As if those two weren't seated all the way in. That would be my guess.
Check ends of those wires and clean as need.
Is the ballast resistor still in one piece - take both wires or and test for continuity....ie/ resistance across the two terminals. Or has a wire come loose on the resistor?
Mstone68440RR
Well-Known Member
Ok, just finished a few more tests on the reluctor coil pick up. I am getting 0 ohms and no continuity during cranking. So as far as I can tell the coil pickup is bad which means no signal tot the MSD to work properly. Hopefully my local store may have one in stock or I will get one ordered asap. Thanks to everyone for their input and suggestions as I would not have thought to look for this as a potential issue. Will update if this solves the start issue.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
moparjohnny
Well-Known Member
voltage regulator?
If needed I have a few nos Mopar performance pick ups. I usually gap them at .010, check a few different spots on the reluctor sometimes they are out a bit.
mopar 3 B
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MDS dizzy. What good are MP parts going to do him.
Start with a new pickup, rotor and cap in MDS parts.
You are checking pickup clearance with a brass nonmagnetic guage? Other wise you will never get the proper clearence.
All rotors and caps are not created equal.
You say it is getting fuel. Is it really fuel? Water will not ignite and fouls plugs in a hurry.
Died on the road did it?
Ski 61701
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Ignition switch might be shot. Take it off and spray it with contact cleaner, the contacts might be corroded. I had a problem such as yours crank all day long nothing. Cleaned ignition switch and everything now works.
Here are the pics. I have a reluctor also, it is 10 out there right now!
mopar 3 B
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If your replacing the factory style pickup. Make sure the reluctor is phased correctly. Is it will fit at i believe 2 different phasings.
Good Call Yes it does, by the roll pin slot there is a arrow going clockwise, that is for the small block/slant the other CCW arrow is for CCW B & RB
Don Gould
Well-Known Member
Start with a Volt Meter
+ side of coil cranking 10-12V
+ side of coil in run position 5-7V If your using the ballast resistor.
I have never used starting fluid on any gas engine and never would.
Few Tips.....
*You can use your timing light and clip it on each wire and crank the engine it will flash if you have power to that plug.
*Use your Ohm meter and check Primary and secondary coil resistance
*Ohm the two wires and see what the resistance is at the pick-up coil 370 to 410 is good.
* Pull the plugs and replace you've been cranking on it so much you've probably washed them down and they may have plugged up the gap.
*Jumper from the + side of the Coil to the + side of the battery and crank it if the ignition is working it will start up.
*Pull the coil wire and put it to ground, cup your hands over the carb and crank the motor.... can you feel the suction?
*Have you tried another coil? Blaster coils are just a Chinese coil (Under $3 in China) and are designed to run a CD Ignition not an Inductive ignition.
*pull the big plug off the ECU and check continuity between the pin sockets and the distributor plug. Turn the ignition ON and see if you have voltage at the center pin, crank the engine and see if you have full voltage to that same pin socket.
* do you have a ground strap from the engine to the firewall?
+ side of coil cranking 10-12V
+ side of coil in run position 5-7V If your using the ballast resistor.
I have never used starting fluid on any gas engine and never would.
Few Tips.....
*You can use your timing light and clip it on each wire and crank the engine it will flash if you have power to that plug.
*Use your Ohm meter and check Primary and secondary coil resistance
*Ohm the two wires and see what the resistance is at the pick-up coil 370 to 410 is good.
* Pull the plugs and replace you've been cranking on it so much you've probably washed them down and they may have plugged up the gap.
*Jumper from the + side of the Coil to the + side of the battery and crank it if the ignition is working it will start up.
*Pull the coil wire and put it to ground, cup your hands over the carb and crank the motor.... can you feel the suction?
*Have you tried another coil? Blaster coils are just a Chinese coil (Under $3 in China) and are designed to run a CD Ignition not an Inductive ignition.
*pull the big plug off the ECU and check continuity between the pin sockets and the distributor plug. Turn the ignition ON and see if you have voltage at the center pin, crank the engine and see if you have full voltage to that same pin socket.
* do you have a ground strap from the engine to the firewall?
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