69 Charger ride height question

[85Bears]

Hello all! Can someone please post a clear picture of where the "adjusting blade" and the "centerline of the steering knuckle arm" measurements are to be taken from? The service manual image isn't very clear (to me - a rookie anyway). I want to make sure this is set right before i get it aligned.

From the service manual, 2-4.
"Measure distance from lowest point of one adjusting
blade to floor (Measurement A) and from lowest
point of steering knuckle arm, at the centerline,
on same side (Measurement B) to floor (Fig. 2)."

Thank you!

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Bottom of ball joint to floor is B. The blade is the round piece in the center of the control arm on the inboard end. From the bottom of the round bit to the floor is A

 

[Macdon221]

To get it perfect I took 2 paint sticks, one on top of the other, zip ties around them, and made a slide ruler. Was easy to measure straight down with the slide ruler and then measure the stick for precise measurements.

 

[WileE]

The difference between the two measurements is the ride height.

 

[MoparLeo]

Just a little professional advice, If the alignment shop does not know how to determine and adjust the ride height on your car, he never learned to properly align a car. at least made before 1980 and you need to find some other place to do your alignment. Also don't go for the "its in the Green" alignment either. There is a specification and it is not just one number. The "specs" will says + or- whatever it is on you car. In the middle of that range is the "prefered spec. EG The computer says + 3° or -3° . The preferred spec is actually 0° . Remember that you are doing a "static" alignment. Let me explain, the car is "static" when it is not moving. When the car doesn't move the suspension is doing nothing but holding the car up off the ground. When you are driving and the car is in "motion" the suspension is now moving up and down and side to side to follow the contour of the road so the suspension is constantly moving up and down. As it does this the ":specs" are changing from + to - constantly. If the alignment was set to one side or the other from "preferred" spec it is actually going in and out of alignment as you go down the road. You are paying the same amount of money whether they just get the Green light to go on or to set it at exactly the midpoint of spec. Ask for a printed copy of the alignment before and after it is done and do not accept below standard work. It is your money and your tires.

 

[hunt2elk]

Here is what I rigged up to measure the ride height.

 

[Macdon221]

Great Idea Hunt2elk...it is very difficult using a tape. Just cant get a perfect measure.

 

[85Bears]

You guys are the best! Thank you all very much. I’ll report back in a few weeks with the final alignment experience. Hopefully it stops frikin raining so I can get her to the place! Have a great weekend!

 

[Jcharger]

Probably is obvious, relieve weight off the suspension before adjusting is for safety.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Probably is obvious, relieve weight off the suspension before adjusting is for safety.

Do what?
It has to have all its weight on the suspension.

 

[Jcharger]

Weight must be on suspension when measuring height. Supporting weight of car when adjusting ride height to avoid getting hurt in case something breaks and suspension collapses. Might've already been written in thread but I didn't see it.

 

[MoparLeo]

You don't need to actually support the weight for safety, just have something in place just in case you are under the car. Place jack stands under car but don't lower the car down to make actual contact.
If you are determined to set the ride height yourself these things need to happen first. All tires matched per axle. Same make/brand and model. Not just same size. Different brands are made to different specs. Only thing the same between brands is the load capacity of the tire. The dimensions are not the same. The wheels must be the same diameter, width and offset. Tire pressure must be set to mfg specs on all 4 tires. To be really precise, car should have a full tank of fuel and approximate avg load carried daily including driver. Next item is "thrust angle" does that interest you ? If it is off significantly , the steering wheel will never be straight when going down the road. That is a more detailed alignment subject .....

 

[85Bears]

Update - the team at the shop did everything per service manual and my 69 Charger is aligned and ride height is perfect! Thanks for the help and information everyone.

Have a great rest of your week!

 

[85Bears]

I thought i would send another update.... after further inspection.... my torsion bars were the wrong ones .88 and i have a 440 and one of the bars was actually bent! I bought PST 1.03" - they installed perfectly and the car rides like a champ!

What prompted me in my last post was I thought the ride height was perfect & the car handled better mainly because it was way out of alignment and the alignment made it feel better and they got it a little higher in ride height. When i got home an drove it a few times it settled back to a low ride height =(

The install of the PST's was very straight forward. 24 hours before the job I sprayed rust penetration oil in at the LCA area. The next day I removed upper control arm bump stops, got her up on a 2 post lift and pulled down on arm to fully extend it downward, removed torsion bar height adjusting bolts, removed ring in back of the torsion bar and smacked the bar where the ring was w a punch a few times then used a monkey wrench and gently tapped it and the bars came out fairly easily! New ones went in with no problems and are GREAT! A bit pricey but they are awesome. I am now at the ride height I want and can make it a gasser if I want (but I won't of course)! Before... one of the adjuster bolts was all of the way in / maxed out (due to bent bar and wrong size). Now not even halfway in and have plenty of room to adjust up or down.

 

[MoparGuy68]

I thought i would send another update.... after further inspection.... my torsion bars were the wrong ones .88 and i have a 440 and one of the bars was actually bent! I bought PST 1.03" - they installed perfectly and the car rides like a champ!

What prompted me in my last post was I thought the ride height was perfect & the car handled better mainly because it was way out of alignment and the alignment made it feel better and they got it a little higher in ride height. When i got home an drove it a few times it settled back to a low ride height =(

The install of the PST's was very straight forward. 24 hours before the job I sprayed rust penetration oil in at the LCA area. The next day I removed upper control arm bump stops, got her up on a 2 post lift and pulled down on arm to fully extend it downward, removed torsion bar height adjusting bolts, removed ring in back of the torsion bar and smacked the bar where the ring was w a punch a few times then used a monkey wrench and gently tapped it and the bars came out fairly easily! New ones went in with no problems and are GREAT! A bit pricey but they are awesome. I am now at the ride height I want and can make it a gasser if I want (but I won't of course)! Before... one of the adjuster bolts was all of the way in / maxed out (due to bent bar and wrong size). Now not even halfway in and have plenty of room to adjust up or down.

What do these bars cost? I don't see any pricing information on their website. Do you still have the stock strut rods?

 

[eldubb440]

i cut the old bars, the 2 halves wiggle out easy

 

[85Bears]

What do these bars cost? I don't see any pricing information on their website. Do you still have the stock strut rods?

I believe they were $279 and you get the b bodies only discount be sure to mention it. Yes I have the old .88’s.

 

[85Bears]

What do these bars cost? I don't see any pricing information on their website. Do you still have the stock strut rods?

Sorry - read too fast. Yes using stock strut rods.