green1
Well-Known Member
He's thinking about purple so dark it looks black.
69 Charger rustbucket
- Thread starter green1
- Start date
426HemiCharger
Well-Known Member
Is this 334185? because I saw it on ebay and I was curious becaue this one is sunfire yellow too
Cevidicus
Well-Known Member
Nice work. Great progress. Also glad to see Im not the only long haired one on this site
green1
Well-Known Member
The long hair guy is the owners older brother, who had the car in his back yard for 20 years. Color seems to be tilting to matte dark purple. I'm pushing for a decision, as we go down and talk to Dvorack about the engine in the AM. Need to shoot the engine compartment next month, as hopefully the car will be back on jackstands and new front suspension installed; ready for the engine. Lol, We all went to high school together, I have ridden in the car in the 70's. And did the brake job on it back then.
Got the 8 3/4 back Monday; 3.55 suregrip.; springs re-arched, with another leaf added. If we decide to let Dvorack build his 440, and decide what compression and cam, then we can take the 727 to Forte, as he needs the #'s to build the trans and convertor.We pulled the dash, and what a vacuum hose spiderweb...
Got the 8 3/4 back Monday; 3.55 suregrip.; springs re-arched, with another leaf added. If we decide to let Dvorack build his 440, and decide what compression and cam, then we can take the 727 to Forte, as he needs the #'s to build the trans and convertor.We pulled the dash, and what a vacuum hose spiderweb...
68427vette
Well-Known Member
looks great!!
I like this:
""who had the car in his back yard for 20 years.""- whoops:icon_hang:
do you knock him on the head, every time you find a rusted out area?? :icon_axe:LOL
I like this:
""who had the car in his back yard for 20 years.""- whoops:icon_hang:
do you knock him on the head, every time you find a rusted out area?? :icon_axe:LOL
green1
Well-Known Member
lol; never put a plastic tarp over a car.
Coledavis01
Well-Known Member
The dark matte purple is going to look mean on it!
Tarp may not be great but in the few b-bodies I've had all 3 had been vinyl top cars and they all had rust issues because of it. Did you have any warping problems welding the spots on the roof or was it just that one section in the front?
Tarp may not be great but in the few b-bodies I've had all 3 had been vinyl top cars and they all had rust issues because of it. Did you have any warping problems welding the spots on the roof or was it just that one section in the front?
green1
Well-Known Member
Under the top, only that one area; the rest were just ream to good metal, treat and weld. Had to buy 2 new sail panels, and use half of each. Rear glass metal totally shot, owner has metal working tools, made new metal, like he saw done on auto restorer-2 pieces bent at a 90, overlap. The rounded corners get hard.
The main warpage ( after figuring out that welds contract, on the 1/4 panel, involving at least 3/16" space), was the rear deck. It kept oil canning, as it wasn't welded to the supports from the factory. We tried a huge weed killer propane torch to 900 degrees, then wet rags. Helped a tad. Figured that there was no room for expansion, as it was welded in on all 4 sides.
Got a die cutter, cut a 3/16" slit almost from sail to sail, and 2,from front to rear, about 1/3 of the way from the sides; Then beat the metal down and slow welded it back up with the wet rags. It worked, no more oil can, but took some Rage, 1/4" thick in spots.
We have learned one thing; If not enough gap, the metal wants to expand outward, not in, and then too stubborn to hammer/dolly in, and stay there.
The main warpage ( after figuring out that welds contract, on the 1/4 panel, involving at least 3/16" space), was the rear deck. It kept oil canning, as it wasn't welded to the supports from the factory. We tried a huge weed killer propane torch to 900 degrees, then wet rags. Helped a tad. Figured that there was no room for expansion, as it was welded in on all 4 sides.
Got a die cutter, cut a 3/16" slit almost from sail to sail, and 2,from front to rear, about 1/3 of the way from the sides; Then beat the metal down and slow welded it back up with the wet rags. It worked, no more oil can, but took some Rage, 1/4" thick in spots.
We have learned one thing; If not enough gap, the metal wants to expand outward, not in, and then too stubborn to hammer/dolly in, and stay there.
green1
Well-Known Member
Watch that etching primer, it is nasty. We had the good masks on, huge fan, doors open. Cleaning up; buddy cross threaded the cap on the gun, I'm laughing at him, then I cross thread cap on lacquer thinner, lol. We was buzzed.
green1
Well-Known Member
So I don't confuse myself, going to keep drive train in this thread. Buddy brought home the rebuilt 8 3/4, with 3.55 sure, and re-arched springs, with 1 leaf added. Yesterday, drove down to Waldo, and talked to Dan Dvorack for over an hour. I knew about him from him doing my 340 heads in 76. Very very knowledgable man. Buddy was asking ?'s about how he would build the 440. Amazing knowledge (damn he bought back his old "Lawman", his 64 with 426 hemi, factory alum front end, glass 1/2 of regular thickness, etc. He used to hold national record, then sold, then hired to fly up and drive the car, then owner set 2 records, then had people change the set up- no good then.
Lol, there was 3 of us there; after a while, Dan said" I know one of you guys knows more than you are letting on, about this engine, but I can't figure out which one of you it is". Busted. But he asked, did I answer any ? wrong? Nope.
Would you just go ahead and tell me if I'm full of sh# if you thought I was? Nope.
He's getting older, but the knowledge and experience there. When pressed on the cam- heads re-worked for the highest flow, limited to ###, compression, since 93 octane, limited to ###. Limitations dictate the cam. He would only give us the lift (after that, wasting time, no more flow)
It will be a nice idle. But; line up all your buddies, with all the rumpety rump so bad, fenders are about to fall off, and pick the one you want to beat in the next race. lol
Great day, hope the $ is in the budget. will know this W/E.
Lol, there was 3 of us there; after a while, Dan said" I know one of you guys knows more than you are letting on, about this engine, but I can't figure out which one of you it is". Busted. But he asked, did I answer any ? wrong? Nope.
Would you just go ahead and tell me if I'm full of sh# if you thought I was? Nope.
He's getting older, but the knowledge and experience there. When pressed on the cam- heads re-worked for the highest flow, limited to ###, compression, since 93 octane, limited to ###. Limitations dictate the cam. He would only give us the lift (after that, wasting time, no more flow)
It will be a nice idle. But; line up all your buddies, with all the rumpety rump so bad, fenders are about to fall off, and pick the one you want to beat in the next race. lol
Great day, hope the $ is in the budget. will know this W/E.
Coledavis01
Well-Known Member
Any updates on the car or the status of your motor setup?
green1
Well-Known Member
Pics not here, Will post later, we ran out of parts for that pos headlight assembly. What a mess, it had been hit, and almost all those weird plastic grommets are missing. Found a local guy to check the heater/a/c box (we sweated pulling it, but what a piece of cake). Can't find wiper grommets. Converting to front disc, can't find a brass bushing between the valve and rear line.
Talked him into talking to the alternator guy I know; we did bypass the ammeter per madelectric(worked good on my 70 Duster); Getting a Denso 90 amp for $125, with older pulley. FYI; Mopar made only 3 alternators; 45 amp, 50/60 amp, then the radial in the late 80's. Then all are Denso. With a tweak, the new Denso's fit old engines, and 60 amps at idle. Running an electronic ignition, a 60 amp may not make it, shutting off the engine at idle. He loved the electronic voltage regulator from Autozone (2 wire, like old 69 back mechanical). And said he had to do the "pull ammeter out of the charging circuit on at least 50 cars (old guy).
New rear in, rebuilt front suspension in; off the rotissiere, back on stands.
We didn't take this car apart, we just have parts, and bags of bolts. This is un-like me and my Duster, that I have owned, and only one to work on it since 1970; this is new. Lol, about noon, we have to pop the 1st beers, and continue to figure it out. Like the owner said, it's a shame, they knowledge we have on restoring this car, and our old azzes will never be doing this again.
Anybody needs help, chime in; I will share it all. This is what the forum is about.
Talked him into talking to the alternator guy I know; we did bypass the ammeter per madelectric(worked good on my 70 Duster); Getting a Denso 90 amp for $125, with older pulley. FYI; Mopar made only 3 alternators; 45 amp, 50/60 amp, then the radial in the late 80's. Then all are Denso. With a tweak, the new Denso's fit old engines, and 60 amps at idle. Running an electronic ignition, a 60 amp may not make it, shutting off the engine at idle. He loved the electronic voltage regulator from Autozone (2 wire, like old 69 back mechanical). And said he had to do the "pull ammeter out of the charging circuit on at least 50 cars (old guy).
New rear in, rebuilt front suspension in; off the rotissiere, back on stands.
We didn't take this car apart, we just have parts, and bags of bolts. This is un-like me and my Duster, that I have owned, and only one to work on it since 1970; this is new. Lol, about noon, we have to pop the 1st beers, and continue to figure it out. Like the owner said, it's a shame, they knowledge we have on restoring this car, and our old azzes will never be doing this again.
Anybody needs help, chime in; I will share it all. This is what the forum is about.
green1
Well-Known Member
And we learned about paint. Sherwin williams etching will knock you out. Their filler primer is fantastic. Just use 3m to sand it (self adhesive paper in a roll), 400 grit. Rage icing is good. For rage filler, 80 grit, then 180, 220 if needed, then 400. Ospho is your friend. The painter stopped by, said" stop sanding, my wet sand guys will finish it", $3000 to put that purple on it, we must have it close.
And the S/W paint- base, then shoot clear, if too dull, too glossy... re-shoot later, no scuffing needed. They make 3 different topcoats. I like this, 1 is real hard, for like the engine compartment, tools don't ding it.
And the S/W paint- base, then shoot clear, if too dull, too glossy... re-shoot later, no scuffing needed. They make 3 different topcoats. I like this, 1 is real hard, for like the engine compartment, tools don't ding it.
BIGBLOCKTONY
Well-Known Member
rust
hey mine was worst:icon_rambo::icon_axe:
hey mine was worst:icon_rambo::icon_axe:
Last edited:
green1
Well-Known Member
green1
Well-Known Member
1st 2 pics Dan Dvorack, then piston and rod, then those thin rings.
green1
Well-Known Member
Oh, those coated forged 1/2 the weight, pistons are Mahle, rods Eagle.
green1
Well-Known Member
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