• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

69 Coronet dash

Daly

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:37 AM
Joined
Aug 29, 2015
Messages
159
Reaction score
174
Location
Ontario
I'm putting in some SpeedHut gauges in my 69, it has the base dash with the swept speedo. I'm building a whole new panel and even doing some work with the switch panel. My question is will the lower trim padding from a rally dash work on the non rally dash?

What I'm basically wanting to do is get rid of the padding that separates the headlight switch panel from the gauges on a non rally dash.

I know the rally gauges won't work with the non rally dash, but I couldn't find any answers on whether the trim will work.
 
Try to find some photos of the mounting studs on the back of each and see if they line up in the same location. If not, you would need to drill holes in the dash frame, even if the pad fits.
 
Daly, I am attempting the same thing with my 69 Coronet. I have been told the lower dash pad and center pad can be switched out and they will work. You just have to fabricate the rally dash insert out of sheet metal or aluminum and cut to fit your gauges. I am not to that point yet as I waiting for the car to come back from paint shop. Have been looking at the gauges and gauge packages online and why did you pick Speedhut for your dash? Just wondering because of the vast number to choose from and I got lost in the process.
 
Thanks for the info on the dash pad. I chose SpeedHut mostly because of cost, customizability, and the speedo being GPS.
 
I will have to look at SpeedHut for those very reasons. The place where I am going to get lost is the wiring and tying into sensors and power. Not much of an electronics expert so that part of it is greek to me. I noticed when looking before that some give ohms/ voltage needs that are different than others listed...another mystery. I was also having a hard tome finding "packages" of gauges, seems like most of the companies wanted to sell gauges individually. Oh well, I will work it out and would love to hear the particulars for your build and the different gauges you decided to go with . PM me or post so any others neophytes can learn. Thanks
 

This is the package I got, one of the biggest reason I got it was I could get it in KM/H. I chose a black ring, black background and red numbers. The speedo and tac are just under 3" which gives me plenty of room to place the gauges as I want.
 
I followed your lead and looked at Speedhut, nice stuff. I picked a silver background with red needles and the green light at night. Thanks for the heads up they have good stuff, I just know nothing of their reliability...do you?
 
I haven't heard any complaints, but I really haven't looked either. Now-a-days I feel it's a crapshoot with any product. The one bonus with speedhut is it is all made in Utah. I've heard there custom service is good too.
 
Thanks for the help Daly, getting a package as well as the different options for the gauge and lighting makes it look like a good way to go. I am ordering the carbon fiber vinyl to wrap the dash insert I am making to get rid of my standard dash. the gauges plus the carbon fiber will look great together.
 
I got the center lower rally dash piece with AC last Friday. Looks great and will work. Now I am searching for the lower left rally dash pad. So many of the original pieces are eaten up with rust and separating from cover that you have to weed through what's out there. I will be posting the need for that lower pad and wondered if you ever got the ones you needed? Keep me posted as to what you are getting done and send a note of you think I can help. I will be building my custom dash soon and using Speed Hut gauges myself. Thanks for the lead.
 
Thanks for the info. I ended up cutting up the original piece, because it wasn't in that great of shape anyway and I figured why not give it a shot.
I did get some work done last weekend while it was warm oit and I plan to get more done this weekend.
20170102_130723.jpg

I need to finish the radio delete piece, passenger side panel and figure out where the gauges are going to go.
 
Daly, it looks like you are planning to use the original type switches. I am trying to do the same with a convert-raly dash but wanting modern switches. THAT has proven to be a real pain, just finding stuff that will integrate. Have you stepped out to try and get switches for yours, would love some pointers. I am NOT a wiz at electronics and a little overwhelmed at this point.
 
I'm running the factory switches for this reason. I'm not comfortable enough with wiring to try to run aftermarket switches. Maybe in the future, but if my headlight wiring show's me anything I have a lot to learn. It took some time for me to figure out how to wire the new H4's in. And it's still not perfect, I'm going to end up ordering a new relay harness for it I think.
But I did get the sheet metal portion done, now I just need to decide on the gauge layout. I'm 90% sure I'm going with the bottom left.
16195947_10158054139605463_4696695845139780142_n.jpg
 
I am doing the second down on the right side. Trying to get the layout for where the switches will go and noticed you don't have them incorporated? Are you putting them low somewhere or hiding them for a more discreet look? Ooops , in going back to your posts I see where they are.
I have a base model Coronet with AC and bought raly center/ lower and lower left dash pads. I do have the same switch panel that you show in the first picture this morning and placed it as you did to get an idea of how that would look. The switch panel is "raised" / spaced out 3/4" or so but my gauge plate will lie down against the surface of the dash frame when I did the layout as you had. Are you planning on spacing out the gauge plate away from frame to take up that space?
The lower center dash pad (with AC cutout) also overlaps the switch panel on mine, is yours the same way? I would have to cut some of the switch panel back to give room for the center/ lower dash pad to butt up against the switch panel. How do I remedy that?
I like the way you are going and using OEM switches and panel, but not sure I can copy it with the issues I see. any thoughts that might help me?
 
Would be much simpler if I could call you and talk...I'm slow pecking this out on the "disputer" keyboard. interested in a chat?
 
I wasn't sure how it was going to work out, but when I put the sheet metal up against the control cluster if fit flush at the top. It's at the bottom where the control cluster curves out that there it a gap. I'm going to cut a piece to follow that contour, to finish it off a little better. I don't have a welder at the moment, but I have access to the glue body shops use. I'm going to see how that works first.
This whole job is trial and error for me, and I'm sure when I'm done, it'll have gone through some changes.

View attachment 20170102_130704.jpg
 
That picture isn't the best, it's just all I have on my phone. It fits better at the too, it just sagged while I took the photo. Once it's screwed in it'll stay lol
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top