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Unscrewing my dash

Looks like you have the added complexity of AC. I on the other hand am starting to suspect hack wiring. OP put in led lights and I think he chopped where he shouldn't have. Hopefully find out more tomorrow. The signals that leave the relay arent the same as what arrives at the motor.
 
Next up is the headlight door motor. Looks like some worn out parts on the internal switches.
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Where the cam rubs against the switch looks like it has worn down to the point where it doesn't make and break contact. That explains why when the motor opens the door it still wants power even after the doors are all the way open.
 
Got the motor cleaned up, adjusted and lubed up. Apparently the led headlights are incompatible with the original relay, so I ordered a new one from http://www.headlightmotorman.com/ Arrived promptly and I installed it today. Great to see the headlight doors work again. I just need to reverse the output plug so they open and close when they should. Next up is the speedo.
 
I can't believe that you are doing this with the front seat in. Oh, that's the other guy. I even remove the steering column.
 
Got the relay wired correctly and the head lights function perfectly. Did the modifications at the relay so the install looks original but I get to keep my led headlights. Pulled the dash for the speedo AGAIN!

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Turns out the PO was so rough on the speedo he actually bent the dash. What I found was one of the screw went in too far and was rubbing the rotating magnet slightly.
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So I found a couple lock washers the right size to shallow out the penetration, and while I was at it I put some synthetic clock oil on the center shaft. Turns out a small 4sided tork bit is the perfect size to run the speedo, so I bench tested it and it runs smooth as silk. Imagine my disappointment when I installed the dash and the original cable and it still flutters. So I fitted the new cable on the speedo and put a drill on it and it works perfectly. So its either the cable or an erratic signal coming from the trans. My next step is to permanently install the new cable and see if that solves the problem.

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Turns out the PO was so rough on the speedo he actually bent the dash. What I found was one of the screw went in too far and was rubbing the rotating magnet slightly.
Resized_20241125_150757_1732583712186.jpeg


So I found a couple lock washers the right size to shallow out the penetration, and while I was at it I put some synthetic clock oil on the center shaft. Turns out a small 4sided tork bit is the perfect size to run the speedo, so I bench tested it and it runs smooth as silk. Imagine my disappointment when I installed the dash and the original cable and it still flutters. So I fitted the new cable on the speedo and put a drill on it and it works perfectly. So its either the cable or an erratic signal coming from the trans. My next step is to permanently install the new cable and see if that solves the problem.

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Cable flutter, did you Speedo grease the cable? Had that issue in the day myself
 
I have a new cable I already bought. Hope that solves the flutter problem. The previous cable has a bunch of abrupt S curves in it and I hope thats the problem.
 
Got the new cable installed and took her for a test drive. Speedo is smooth as butter! Of course while I was under the car I found the trans cooler line resting on the exhaust. Kinda hard to cool that way. And as I was installing the cable I reached under the master cylinder and my hand came away wet with fluid. Fortunately it was just the cover screwed on crooked. Think I'm gonna need a bigger pole barn.


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