69 Coronet front disc conversion

[RemCharger]

Don't get the corvette style "conversion master booster" deal is all I can say. All the kits come with them it seems, and they suck.

 

[themechanic]

Try Pirate Jack.


https://piratejack.net/mopar-b-e-body/

 

[Rob Jett]

I used http://www.aajbrakes.com/ for swapping out the front drums on my '68 Charger. It was straight forward and not a big investment. For me, it made a noticeable difference although I'm sure an equal amount of attention on the original drums would probably have made a difference too.

 

[Max Myers]

I currently have power drum brakes all around. I am wanting to convert the front to disc. I have been doing some research on it and I see there are a ton of different kits out there that are available and I know the spindles need to be changed. My question is can I get a kit that has just the spindles, rotors, calipers and associated hardware and use my existing booster and master cylinder, or do I have to replace the booster and master cylinder as well? Also, do I need to add a proportioning valve? Any help would be appreciated.

Hey mate,
We used this kit for our disc brake conversion, but had to purchase original spindles because someone had swapped them out for unknown disk brake one's when they did the old conversion. Once I found them and we fitted them, the Wilwood kit, which is specifically designed to work with original drum spindles, worked great. I did have to buy new flexline kit for $59.95 The Wildood's cost $984.74 We also had to change the master cylinder, reroute the brake lines and used a proportioning valve. Hope this helps, Max.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-140-11020-D
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-220-8307

 

[Van Stahr]

If you change to disc brakes you will have to change the booster. The most knowledgeable guy about the booster is Ram Man. Ram Man / Products / MOPAR CLASSIC CARS & TRUCKS (therammaninc.com)
My brother and I have both done brake conversions and the booster sent by others were incorrect, but Ram Man got us the right stuff the first time. Ram Man is the MOPAR brake Guru.

 

[firiepete]

I have used Doc Diff's stuff and highly recommend. Cass knows his gear and will answer ALL your questions.

 

[R6RaVEN37]

So I picked these up at Spring Fling and I am trying to figure out if these are the correct parts for doing the swap. Some, but not all the measurements match what is called out in the DISC-O-TECH article. Spindle measurements match except the diameter of the shaft. Rotors come out at 11 1/8, which doesn't match any measurements. I'm starting to get frustrated and wondering if I wasted money getting these instead of just buying a kit. Any help is appreciated.

 

[jt4406]

" diameter of the shaft " It's my understanding the diameter of the spindle, near it's base, is the kicker. Apparently the early disc spindles used a smaller diameter inner wheel bearing and obtaining stock rotors for those is difficult. Do you know what these rotors and spindles came on originally, especially year model? Were they assembled when you bought them, or did you buy spindles and rotors from different vendors? Pull your inner (larger) bearing out and see if it fits your spindle. I intend to do the same swap on my 69 bee. Also you need to be aware (providing everything checks out and fits) the caliper will hit rhe sway bar if you mount it on the front like they came from the factory (disc brake cars). The solotion is to swap the spindles side to side, then deal with obtaining brake hoses that fit (do-able). Don't be discouraged, it's been done lots. jess in ky

 

[440 PHIXX]

Right up until the drums fade when you stop hard from a higher speed. The 11’s are better for sure but I’ve had all of them and the drums all fade when you work them hard. They also are more prone to locking. I’d certainly keep them on the rear though.

I agree. And panic stops are where you will find the difference. The factory 4 wheel drum setup does not have a proportional valve. It just has a distribution block. The rear will always lock up first. And in a front heavy car the rear will try to come around. The disk brake setup, while not adjustable, does have the proportioning valve.

 

[gtx6970]

" diameter of the shaft " It's my understanding the diameter of the spindle, near it's base, is the kicker. Apparently the early disc spindles used a smaller diameter inner wheel bearing and obtaining stock rotors for those is difficult. Do you know what these rotors and spindles came on originally, especially year model?

The bigger inner bearing came out in I think 1973 or maybe 74 B and E bodies . Not sure about any other models, but I would assume same years

 

[R6RaVEN37]

" diameter of the shaft " It's my understanding the diameter of the spindle, near it's base, is the kicker. Apparently the early disc spindles used a smaller diameter inner wheel bearing and obtaining stock rotors for those is difficult. Do you know what these rotors and spindles came on originally, especially year model? Were they assembled when you bought them, or did you buy spindles and rotors from different vendors? Pull your inner (larger) bearing out and see if it fits your spindle. I intend to do the same swap on my 69 bee. Also you need to be aware (providing everything checks out and fits) the caliper will hit rhe sway bar if you mount it on the front like they came from the factory (disc brake cars). The solotion is to swap the spindles side to side, then deal with obtaining brake hoses that fit (do-able). Don't be discouraged, it's been done lots. jess in ky

I don't know what they came off off, I was just told they were from a B Body. They weren't assembled when I bought them, just all in a box together. I bought it all together as a set: spindles, rotors, dust shields, calipers (four piston) and all the hardware. The rotors have all the bearings in them and they fit properly on the spindles. The Disc-o-tech article says the spindle diameter should be 1 /38 (1.375), and mine are measuring out at 1.250.

Starting to sound more and more like I wasted money on these "wrong" parts

 

[ckessel]

4 piston is older b. You can sell that stuff to someone wanting to do restoration type upgrades keeping it looking correct for the period. Not necessarily wasting money, just postponing what you need. Get ahold of the b-body upgrade book from AndyF @ arengineering.com,amazon or from Mancini.

 

[R6RaVEN37]

Well dam. That's what I get for jumping the gun and not doing all my research first. Guess I should have just stuck with my original plan of buying an aftermarket kit, since that is where I am at now anyways. Chalk it up to a learning experience and move on. See if I can maybe sell this stuff to recoup some of what I paid for it.

 

[ckessel]

Do some research. Those pieces you got may have some big value to those in the numbers matching/perfection circle.