69 GTX suspension restoration

[CoronetDarter]

While the front end is apart another item to think about, depending on time and budget, is having Firm Feel rebuild your steering box. They have three stages for power steering - Stage I replicates the stock feel and III is the firmest. I went with the III; nice 'heavy' feel at low speeds with great response at high speeds.
I did everything mentioned in the prior posts using a combo of Moog and PST. I also installed the PST aluminum barrel-shaped tie rod adjusters, C-body size. Shocks make a big difference too - I recommend Bilsteins if the budget allows. All the above suggestions along with the disc brakes will make the GTX a pleasure to drive.

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

Just remember that your suspension is a system. 'Stiffness' means two different things when used here;
First is taking the slop out of the suspension by using components that deflect less than stock such as polyurethane bushings and the thicker tie rods/sleeves, etc. These upgrades will give you greater steering feel and feedback.
Second is increasing the spring rate and or sway bar thickness. In these cases you also have to consider the WHOLE system! Too much stiffness at the front with thicker torsion and sway bars will increase the tendency to understeer. To correct this you would have to add a rear sway bar. I think going to a 1.03" torsion with a stock sway bar is OK but adding a thicker sway bar would require further upgrades.
Here is a sample order for Rockauto that I would do. It includes fast-ratio Pitman and Idler arms that will give you better steering response.View attachment 994568
I would replace everything in one shot. I don't know if you're handling the labor or paying someone else to do it but doing a job once and being done with it is the way to go!

Wow nice right up and the completed shopping list!
Looks to be exactly what I was looking for. I'll handle my own labor yes. Car is fully disassembled and all parts will be done at once.
Mainly looking for improved handling and clean parts to last a long time!
Appreciate the feedback and happy to see the forged parts as that is what I was thinking to go with.

 

[69_Coronet]

One thing to always remember is that your handling (cornering, at least) is very dependent on the tires you run. Without sticky tires, you won't get very good handling regardless of the suspension upgrades you do. It looks to me like the suggestions above are a good starting point, but the tires need to be sticky to get most benefit, On my Coronet, I did most of the same mods, but with my current BF Goodrich Radial TAs, my handling is not what I want. I have a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 4S on order that I expect will make a big difference. They did on my other car. Unfortunately, they will probably just show up the next weak link in my handling. Cheers!

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

While the front end is apart another item to think about, depending on time and budget, is having Firm Feel rebuild your steering box. They have three stages for power steering - Stage I replicates the stock feel and III is the firmest. I went with the III; nice 'heavy' feel at low speeds with great response at high speeds.
I did everything mentioned in the prior posts using a combo of Moog and PST. I also installed the PST aluminum barrel-shaped tie rod adjusters, C-body size. Shocks make a big difference too - I recommend Bilsteins if the budget allows. All the above suggestions along with the disc brakes will make the GTX a pleasure to drive.

Planning to do the steering box too yes and was told about the different ratios a bit.
I'll digest some off this info on the weekend and try to take steps forward.
Information provided here is a huge help!

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

Just remember that your suspension is a system. 'Stiffness' means two different things when used here;
First is taking the slop out of the suspension by using components that deflect less than stock such as polyurethane bushings and the thicker tie rods/sleeves, etc. These upgrades will give you greater steering feel and feedback.
Second is increasing the spring rate and or sway bar thickness. In these cases you also have to consider the WHOLE system! Too much stiffness at the front with thicker torsion and sway bars will increase the tendency to understeer. To correct this you would have to add a rear sway bar. I think going to a 1.03" torsion with a stock sway bar is OK but adding a thicker sway bar would require further upgrades.
Here is a sample order for Rockauto that I would do. It includes fast-ratio Pitman and Idler arms that will give you better steering response.View attachment 994568
I would replace everything in one shot. I don't know if you're handling the labor or paying someone else to do it but doing a job once and being done with it is the way to go!

I can't really find those similar parts on rockauto... Have I lost my mind?

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

Based on the feedback I'll look at:
- swap tie rod ends and sleeves for the bigger c-body size
- replace both the idler and pitman arm
- 1.03" torsion bars
- original strut rods or OEM style replacement
- original sway bar (how the heck do I swap the bushings?)
- add LCA stiffeners
- firm feel rebuild on the steering box

Should I look to stay rubber or go polyurethane / urethane? Seems to be fairly mixed reviews on this.

Kevin

 

[Kern Dog]

Urethane does reduce deflection but the tradeoff is that it transmits more vibration and rattles. I had urethane upper control arm bushings and ended up swapping them out for rubber.

 

[hunt2elk]

Based on the feedback I'll look at:
- swap tie rod ends and sleeves for the bigger c-body size
- replace both the idler and pitman arm
- 1.03" torsion bars
- original strut rods or OEM style replacement
- original sway bar (how the heck do I swap the bushings?)
- add LCA stiffeners
- firm feel rebuild on the steering box

Should I look to stay rubber or go polyurethane / urethane? Seems to be fairly mixed reviews on this.

Kevin

Sounds like a good plan. Don't forget some decent shocks if you don't already have them. PST offers a 10% discount on Bilsteins as well as anything else if you are a member here.
I put poly bushings in one of my cars 10 years ago. Just got done ripping it all apart and replacing with rubber. I couldn't stand all the squeaks and harsh ride anymore. Swaybar end links are the only poly I will use anymore.

 

[Rockland71GTX]

I can't really find those similar parts on rockauto... Have I lost my mind?

I used a 69 Charger for the search. It's crazy, and it's not just a rockauto thing, but sometimes you have to put the most popular model of a body style to get the most results.

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

Urethane does reduce deflection but the tradeoff is that it transmits more vibration and rattles. I had urethane upper control arm bushings and ended up swapping them out for rubber.
View attachment 994873

Thank you

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

Sounds like a good plan. Don't forget some decent shocks if you don't already have them. PST offers a 10% discount on Bilsteins as well as anything else if you are a member here.
I put poly bushings in one of my cars 10 years ago. Just got done ripping it all apart and replacing with rubber. I couldn't stand all the squeaks and harsh ride anymore. Swaybar end links are the only poly I will use anymore.

Great feedback thank you

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

I used a 69 Charger for the search. It's crazy, and it's not just a rockauto thing, but sometimes you have to put the most popular model of a body style to get the most results.

Will 69 charger components fit then?

 

[Kern Dog]

The 1968 and 1969 Charger, Road Runner, GTX, Coronet, Belvedere and Satellite all use similar parts. For 1970, a few things changed but most stuff stayed the same until the 1973 model year.

 

[66 Sat]

I've got the polygraphite bushings from PST throughout my car. No squeaks at all and the ride is great. They supposedly give the benefits of poly but without the downsides. Might be worth investigating.

 

[Kevin Bisgrove]

The 1968 and 1969 Charger, Road Runner, GTX, Coronet, Belvedere and Satellite all use similar parts. For 1970, a few things changed but most stuff stayed the same until the 1973 model year.

Thank you