69 gtx

[69 GTX]

MT, yes headed that way on the 23rd.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Whatever you are driving down to get the motor I think you should swap the 440 in for the drive back! Would aid in break in and it's the Fer Racin' way! lol

 

[69 GTX]

That would be fun in the Ranger!!!
View attachment 312719
Latest on the 440+6

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Quote Originally Posted by 69 GTX View Post

I love it!!!!!!!!!!!

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If I had to guess I'd say there's less than 25 ft lbs difference between 3400 & 5500

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Jim
Is the bottom blue line fuel ratio? Getting lean at higher rpms?
Tim,
That is fuel flow not a/f ratio. Still rich on the bottom. 533 lb-ft @ 3,300 and 536 lb-ft @ 5,700. The 6-pack is getting better average torque and horsepower from 3,000-6,000 than the Victor or the RPM. 553 peak torque and 582 horsepower.

I gotta get in touch with SuperFlow. Miserable computer/dyno is still printing the date and time wrong ever since the first of the year. If I shut down for awhile it restarts at 1/1/16. This really was a run from yesterday afternoon.

 

[69 GTX]

I used the Wallace calculator to est. my e.t. and I used 4000 for weight, 580 for HP and mid Aug. weather conditions (900 alt with corrected alt. of 3000 ft). And gave me 7.30 1/8th & 11.35 1/4 e.t. So I should be able to hit my goal with a tenth or two in the bank.
:3gears:

 

[Hemirunner]

Congrats. You may want to start a monthly account to cover future tire expenses!

 

[69 GTX]

Probably just like the old days, new pair every spring. Although with the softer compound it might be every other month! It's a small price to pay for embarrassing new Mustangs, Camaros, & Corvettes!

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Hemirunner did you ever weigh your car? I figured with AC & GV it'd be close to 4K.

 

[Gpuller]

69 GTX are you close to Humboldt?

You sprayed Lizard skin on the underside. Did you top coat it with B5?
Working on a '70 B5 Charger at work. Thinking about doing Lizard Skin and then B5.

 

[69 GTX]

About 100 miles south.
Love the Lizzard skin! Easy to use, easy clean up. Make sure you use light coats and let it flash good between coats. I used a fan and dehumidifier to aid in drying.
I used the sound deadener on underside & thermal on the inside. I painted the inside B5 and underside flat black. I figured blue would show dirt worse. Take your time on building thickness. I ordered a gallon of each and that was about right.
If you want I'll send you my gun if you'll pay for the round trip shipping.

 

[Hemirunner]

Probably just like the old days, new pair every spring. Although with the softer compound it might be every other month! It's a small price to pay for embarrassing new Mustangs, Camaros, & Corvettes!

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Hemirunner did you ever weigh your car? I figured with AC & GV it'd be close to 4K.

4080 on dragweek with me in it running 10.80s with 3.73 gears.

 

[PP1RT]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product soon. Keep up the good work!

 

[69 GTX]

It's hard not to be thinking about it while at work, that's for sure!

 

[Gpuller]

It's hard not to be thinking about it while at work, that's for sure!

Here I thought I was the only one that had that problem. Hate it when work interferes with your car projects.

 

[69 GTX]

So Jim's doing some more tweaking on the jetting should have some more dyno #s.

 

[MT_Mopar]

I just gotta say, one of the most enjoyable times I have had in recent memory was working with Jim and my bigblock. I love the choosing of parts, decisions on this or that, and tweaking of different performance items. When I look back that in itself was an extremely fun and exciting time for my build.

And then, the end result, one of the most bad-*** Mopar performance engines built! Very cool, very cool indeed.

Enjoy your engine my friend, and show us some more pics if you got em.

 

[Hemirunner]

So Jim's doing some more tweaking on the jetting should have some more dyno #s.

Cool. How is it jetted now and what's his plan?

 

[69 GTX]

As we are at 5,000' elevation the jetting will have to be changed before you leave here some 2-3 jet sizes larger. Today I'll be running a staggered jetting arrangement. Front right 81, front left 82, center left and right 60, rear right 82, rear left 81.

 

[IQ52]

As we are at 5,000' elevation the jetting will have to be changed before you leave here some 2-3 jet sizes larger. Today I'll be running a staggered jetting arrangement. Front right 81, front left 82, center left and right 60, rear right 82, rear left 81.

Wow did that turn out to be the wrong setup!

The idle mixture screws are very sensitive to any input along with the rod settings that control the outboard carburetor butterflies. I had the rods adjusted to pull the butterflies tightly shut. The idle screw combination with the slammed shut butterflies set everything into a hyper rich mode at low rpm's. Made the plugs go black and sooty. They wouldn't clean off and remained black/brown with no observable information available from the porcelain fuel ring. The above jetting (in the quote) sent the engine into a lean mis-fire. We used the thermocouples to balance the idle mixture egt, installed brand new plugs and began to go richer. We are at right rear 89, left rear 86, both center 62, right front 86 and left front 88. Idle mixture is still a little rich and we are still somewhat lean with just the slightest hint of a fuel ring at the porcelain base. The egt spread has tightened at idle through full load/throttle.

 

[69 GTX]

Had the same touchy situation tuning a 6 bbl for a friend. So are the rods still adjusted tight. I noticed the 71 center carbs have holes in the butterflies, I assume to help idle tuning over the 69-70 carbs.
What do you think will be the best way to go about adjusting the idle mixture when back down at my altitude?
The main jets should be pretty straight forward. There are plenty of calculators for that.
Thanks for the update Jim.

 

[IQ52]

Nope, now I'm allowing the rods to float in the center of the butterfly arms.

 

[69 GTX]

For the first time in a couple years the GTX is back on all 4!

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I have most of the front suspension in and brakes. I went with the /6 torsion bars and it feels pretty loose, what I was hoping for. I do have a set of small block bars if I need to change them. Rake is just how I want it, front is 1" lower than rear. I'm hoping everything will settle 1-2 inches after everything is in the car. I'm hoping rear wheel opening lip will settle right above the rim. And the front fender lip just below the top of tire.