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69 roadrunner overheating questions

Butch Harley

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My RR is a pretty stock 383 with a 7 blade fan (from a 72 cuda?) stock water pump champion radiator I think 4 core and a 16"pusher fan I also vented the hood(pics). Motor has a classic air system AC. 1- at +80-90 degrees when moving - temp is 185-200 depending on speed in traffic dead stop it will hit 230 in about 15 minutes. So I think the fan is not adequate would a Be Cool system solve my problem? 2- I am running a 60amp alternator is that big enough when AC & fan is on dash gauges are peg to C. Also when running idle just engine fan a Anemometer wind speed recorder the best is 3mph with pusher fan on also 6-10mph depends on were you put it. THANKS in advance for your comments. 20210703_105052 (1).jpg20220616_111210.jpg
 
I do not think your radiator is up to the task. Did you verify the accuracy of your temperature gauge?
 
Do you have a fan clutch on the mechanical fan?
If so, I'm thinking it may be worn out.
If you reach in with it cold and give it a spin it should only go about 1/2 a turn.
 
coolant filter.jpg

what you are looking at is a coolant filter in a heater hose that was blocking coolant flow to a heater core. when i installed my champion rad it ran 180 to 190 in Florida heat then it started to run in the 220 to 240 range so i drained the coolant to fine all kinds of rust chunks in the tube of the rad witch hurt coolant flow so i bought a coolant filter for the upper rad hose and a Griffin rad then drove 120 miles when i checked the filter it was jamed with rust chunks i removed it and cleaned and it has gotten less as time has gone buy . take it for w i w and install a coolant filter to keep rust from plugin the rad tubs. this picture is from one of my fleet trucks but it shows' what i had with my coolant filter.
 
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Vance heater/AC, radiator are new I had the motor out 1year ago and flushed it and motor was new 9years ago
 
I've had bad experience with champion radiator. If it were my car, I'd get a stock 26" from Glen-ray, stock shroud with a clutch on your existing fan, and throw the electric fan in the garbage.
 
There are a bunch of things to consider, some posted. Include the shroud and fan distance from the radiator. The upper hose looks unusual (to me). Is it internally supported to prevent collapse when it’s hot? Some ills are also caused by the lower hose collapsing but usually when it’s time to replace it or ill-fitment. Other things can include coolant ratio and engine oils. Does it have a hi-output water pump?
 
What are your timing specs?
 
Ron fan is closer than I would like I believe core support is crooked I have little space between AC compressor /fan /radiator. Hoses new no wire in them but I do not see them collapsing I let it get hot in the driveway when checking 50/50 ratio - 15-40 rotella -stock pump
 
Too far into the shroud is a problem.
The fan tends to circulate the same air within the shroud instead of pulling it through the radiator.
I'd try removing the shroud completely as a test or cut it so the fan is halfway in there.
 
Depending on what kind of distributor you have, if you can limit the mechanical advance so you can have more initial timing, it may be beneficial with cooling. I have a restrictor plate in mine and set it at 18°/18° with no cooling issues.
 
Vance heater/AC, radiator are new I had the motor out 1year ago and flushed it and motor was new 9years ago
mine was new and took 300 miles to plug the rad tubs. e-z to drain the coolant and look with a flash light at the tube top in the upper tank and thru the upper hose inlet.
 
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