With some of the stock systems this can be true. However, some of the newer water pump designs address the cavitation issue with cavitation plates and improved impeller fin design. One example of this is Flowkooler. It works very well with both non-A/C and the smaller faster moving A/C pulleys as I know from first hand experience. I've always run a 180F thermostat with both setups.Just a word of advise i have experienced I was having a cooling issue on my 69 440 AC car i replaced the radiator with a 26 inch max cool Glen Ray radiator and it works grate now. I did find out after going threw everything that a critical thing to check is the water pump and pulley combination wich is critical to water flow. If you have a 6 bladed water pump (AC) then you must run the pulleys for an AC setup they are smaller and turn the pump faster if you run the non AC pulleys on the 6 bladed fan the pump wont move enough water and vise versa if run the 8 bladed pump you need to run the pulley set up for a non AC setup if you run the AC pulleys on the 8 bladed pump you will get less water flow due to the pump runs to fast and cavetates within the hosing moving less water then normal. Just food for thought the pump and pulley combination is just as crucial to the system working properly as everything else.
that's a win right there. If I had read this post 5 years ago I would not have cut my opening wider when going from a 22" to 26" rad. What water pump and water pump housing?Lasy year I had a car with an aftermkt 22inch aluminum radiator. No matter what I did the car ran low 200s all the time. ( Im in Southern AZ )
I bought a new 26inch radiator via ebay , put an nos 2998326 shroud on it. Changed the stat to a hiflow Mr Gasket version.
As well as an NOS mopar 16lb cap. And the car ran in the 180-190 range ALL the time even on 110 degree days. I did NOT cut the radiator opening. Simply drilled 2 small holes and mounted it that way.