Joel, back to the brakes. So if you had to pick would you choose the 15/16 or the 1 1/32? Do they both stop well just a matter of pedal travel?
69 Super Bee Rebuild (my way)
- Thread starter hunt2elk
- Start date
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
Non-ox 91 fuel is still almost 20 miles away. E10 87 is all that's available close. My 440 is a low compression cast piston deal. I run 87 unless I'm going on a trip or it's pretty hot out. Vapor lock is no laughing matter. LOL
threewood
Well-Known Member
That sucks but at least you are having him fix it. That's a big error on his part that could have been avoided. Let us know which way you are going to go with the motor.
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
I will. After pm'ing with a couple of the racers on here, they made me rethink a bit. If I force him to build the motor the way I want and it doesn't work out, then he can wash his hands of it. He is a well respected Mopar engine builder with a stellar reputation. Everybody makes mistakes, and he happened to make one on this motor. Also, everybody has a different preferred method of putting these things together. He is not a rookie by any means. He wants to talk and figure out which route to go after he has it back in his shop and it is tore down.
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hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
I honestly don't know how to answer that question. I feel as though the 1 1/32 mc will stop the car better than the 15/16 one does. Idk, maybe because that's what I grew up with, but to me it feels safer. There are however piles of guys running the smaller bore and love them. Cass says the 15/16 is a far more popular seller for him. Maybe I just have to get used to it. I do feel as though a 1 inch bore would be perfect.
Any update on the engine?
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
It made the trip back to CA and they are planning on taking it apart next Monday.
Any updates Joel?
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
New pistons, bearings, cam, and lifters were finally ordered today. Pistons are custom CP's and are out 5 weeks. Also Brian sent the leaking oil pan back to Milodon for them to repair. So things are starting to move along.
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hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
In the meantime I decided to build a decent engine/transmission dolly so I don't have to cobble carts and stands together for engine install from the bottom anymore. Made it adjustable so it will work on A-bodies also.
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Very nice!
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
A whole lot safer as well.
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
Just got an email from Brian at IMM out in CA. The custom Icon pistons finally showed up. He also sent the oil pan back to Milodon and they repaired the bad weld and it is back in his hands as well. Should now be ready to to get the engine assembly started.
I like the piston. Progress is good!
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
Small update. The motor is supposed to ship by the end of the month, but I am not holding my breath...
Made a wheel change decision on the Bee. Decided I like my Keystones better on my RR, and Cragars better on the Dodge.
Had some unilug 7 and 8 inch Cragars, but wanted 10's in the rear so decided to just order a new set of conical lug 7 and 10's. Luckily I only had to wait 2 months for the custom shop to reopen so I could get the 10's in a custom backspace.
Made a wheel change decision on the Bee. Decided I like my Keystones better on my RR, and Cragars better on the Dodge.
Had some unilug 7 and 8 inch Cragars, but wanted 10's in the rear so decided to just order a new set of conical lug 7 and 10's. Luckily I only had to wait 2 months for the custom shop to reopen so I could get the 10's in a custom backspace.
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
First thing I realized when the new wheels showed up is that the factory lug studs which work fine on steelies and the unilug design only give 1/2" of thread engagement with conical nuts on the thick wheels. A call to Cass @ Dr Diff got me the solution. Dorman 610-290 for the front rotors and Dorman 610-287's for the rear axles. Note to myself, if I ever buy another Strange 60, order threaded studs instead of press in. Way more options.
Looks great!
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