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69 Vert won't start

datblackchallenger

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Sat for 5 years. Cranks but won't start. Replaced ECU, voltage regulator, ballast resistor, electronic pickup in the distributer, reluctor and oil pressure sending unit, (oil light stays on any time the battery is hooked up, still on). 5 plus volts at coil. Tried 3 coils including a new MSD, (7 plus volts). it has a fire wall to engine ground.
Have 1 plus volts at the coil with the key off positive and negative side. Headlights and the console light work. Fusible link looks ok. I think maybe wiring or ignition switch issue. Where to start checking?
At least the top still works. 440 4 speed.
69 Vert 1.jpg
 
Have you ruled out fuel?
Took fuel tank out. Just priming it for now. Will be installing a temporary tank. Need to get it running so I can get it in my third bay. I will have 6 foot more room to do the body work width wise.
 
To run, and engine needs 1. spark 2. fuel 3. be basically in one piece. I will have to assume (since you didn't say) that the engine does absolutely nothing except crank when you turn the key....not even a sputter.....

Start with checking spark AT A SPARK PLUG while cranking. Second, make sure accelerator pump is putting fuel into engine. For #3, I will also assume you don't have a rod hanging out the side of the block.

It does sort of sound like a wiring/ignition switch problem. You can run a hot wire to the + side of the coil from the + side of the battery & turn the key. If it fires, then you've for sure got a wiring/ign. switch problem. I think you'll burn up the coil if you leave it that way though.

You mention a reluctor, so I will assume you've put in a Chrysler electronic ignition ('72+). Turn key to "on". Disconnect distributor plug. Disconnect center ignition wire from distributor cap, put a Phillips screwdriver in it & then put the screwdriver near (1/8") a good ground. When you ground the exposed (male) side of the distributor plug (wiring harness side) a spark should jump to ground from the screwdriver (this tests coil & wiring).

On the ballast resistor, you should have 12V going in & 5V (or 7V?) coming out. The blue wire is ignition "on" <12V coming out of ballast resistor. Brown wire is 12V only with key in "start" position.

You can simply pour about 1-2 oz. of fuel down the throat of the carburetor to see if you are getting fuel to the engine. If it fires, you have a carb/fuel pump/filter problem.
 
To run, and engine needs 1. spark 2. fuel 3. be basically in one piece. I will have to assume (since you didn't say) that the engine does absolutely nothing except crank when you turn the key....not even a sputter.....

Start with checking spark AT A SPARK PLUG while cranking. Second, make sure accelerator pump is putting fuel into engine. For #3, I will also assume you don't have a rod hanging out the side of the block.

It does sort of sound like a wiring/ignition switch problem. You can run a hot wire to the + side of the coil from the + side of the battery & turn the key. If it fires, then you've for sure got a wiring/ign. switch problem. I think you'll burn up the coil if you leave it that way though.

You mention a reluctor, so I will assume you've put in a Chrysler electronic ignition ('72+). Turn key to "on". Disconnect distributor plug. Disconnect center ignition wire from distributor cap, put a Phillips screwdriver in it & then put the screwdriver near (1/8") a good ground. When you ground the exposed (male) side of the distributor plug (wiring harness side) a spark should jump to ground from the screwdriver (this tests coil & wiring).

On the ballast resistor, you should have 12V going in & 5V (or 7V?) coming out. The blue wire is ignition "on" <12V coming out of ballast resistor. Brown wire is 12V only with key in "start" position.

You can simply pour about 1-2 oz. of fuel down the throat of the carburetor to see if you are getting fuel to the engine. If it fires, you have a carb/fuel pump/filter problem.
Thanks will doing more checks in the next couple of days. Electronic conversion kit installed ten years ago. New electronic pickup and reluctor installed.
 
Was it just an msd coil? If new ignition box, the msd with the ballast resistor, it more than likely won't start. Msd loves volts! Must remove ballast with ignition box. But if just using the coil, keep ballast. Good luck!
 
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