the clocks are rebuildable if the contacts inside are not burnt completely up. I have two tic toc tachs that I have rebuilt the clocks in and they are ticking and keeping time just fine.
70 Runner Tic Tock Tach
- Thread starter Phantom
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A-merry-can
Well-Known Member
Awesome. I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
What kills the clocks is when these cars
didn't get driven and the battery got weak the winding contact would close and apply voltage to the winding coil. With the battery voltage so low it can't wind
the clock and open the contacts to de energize the coil so it burns the coil up. I almost can garentee you will find an open coil or bad contacts inside. The coils can be re wound and sometimes the contacts can be dressed
didn't get driven and the battery got weak the winding contact would close and apply voltage to the winding coil. With the battery voltage so low it can't wind
the clock and open the contacts to de energize the coil so it burns the coil up. I almost can garentee you will find an open coil or bad contacts inside. The coils can be re wound and sometimes the contacts can be dressed
Took care of mine years ago. Same as @Beekeeper said above - but instead of repairing the badly burnt coil and welded contacts, I installed a quartz movement. Looks absolutely factory EXCEPT for the smooth action of the 'seconds' hand instead of the twitchy jump it used to make. Only loses a few minutes over a month. 
A-merry-can
Well-Known Member
is it tricky to separate the clock from the tach? I didn't look too closely. Do the stock hands slide right onto the quartz kit? That sounds like the way I'm gonna go, I think.
Also, while I'm at it, to test the tach, I was going to run a jumper from the long pin to the positive battery, and from the frame to the negative battery, then run a line to the negative coil and starting her up. Sound reasonable? I haven't installed a tach before, if it doesn't show. :-D
Also, while I'm at it, to test the tach, I was going to run a jumper from the long pin to the positive battery, and from the frame to the negative battery, then run a line to the negative coil and starting her up. Sound reasonable? I haven't installed a tach before, if it doesn't show. :-D
The clock is easy to separate from the tach, three small screws and an insulating washer/spacer
Before removing any screws you will need to remove the plastic plug housing from the clock wire
terminal end and pull the rubber grommet out of the tach housing. This all will be clear once you take a look at the tach. To remove the plastic connector from the lead use a small pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze the male spade (inside the connector) from the edges to release it.
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