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700-800 horse power 400 low deck

Well lead the way boys where can I find an aftermarket block that's not gonna cost me an arm and a leg ?

I haven't looked too much for one. I think the Indy/Word blocks are around $3,000? Aluminum Block $4,400?
I think the Koleno block is around $3,900? Only place I have seen a price is Koffels $3,895
Mopar P5153860 from Marsh $2,895?
 
Check out HT413s build going on right now...
IQ52s engine build sounds sweet...

When the HELL are "WE" going to pull that K-member and put in that new system?
Call me...
But dont call me Blondie...
tee-hee-hee...
Don't call you Johnson either!? :D

DVW speaks the truth. I'm getting my Victors figured out and buying a set of -1's for the next engine. The installed height is a big deal when it comes right down to it. Why do all of these CNC places advertise big flow numbers knowing full well that the heads can't get much more than .730 lift? And that's just the beginning.
To help generate sales maybe........?
 
If you can wait we are going to market small block turbo kits. This one runs 9.80@137, 3800lbs on only 15psi. Carb, no intercooler, 3.55 gear, street driven. Stock 360 block and crank. Ran 10.30's with factory heads and cam.
Doug
 

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Brad legman is a good friend of a friend (both went to school together) and was told he dose great work and has a fine shop...

and Eric Jones lives about 5 minutes from me a very cool dude indeed !! Thanks for your input !

I would call Brad at QMP or Eric Jones at Jones Racing. Both in So. Cal. Just my .02



Ray
 
If you can wait we are going to market small block turbo kits. This one runs 9.80@137, 3800lbs on only 15psi. Carb, no intercooler, 3.55 gear, street driven. Stock 360 block and crank. Ran 10.30's with factory heads and cam.
Doug

And alcohol right?
 
I just check them out.. all i can say is thank you !! Mite be considered !ill let you guys know

I haven't looked too much for one. I think the Indy/Word blocks are around $3,000? Aluminum Block $4,400?
I think the Koleno block is around $3,900? Only place I have seen a price is Koffels $3,895
Mopar P5153860 from Marsh $2,895?
 
I am going E-85 on my 500" stroked 400 too. Just bought a 1050 cfm Quick Fuel 4150 E-85 carb.
The Machine ship called and the #7 cylinder needed a sleeve installed. I hope to have the block back next week.
 
I just check them out.. all i can say is thank you !! Mite be considered !ill let you guys know
There are no iron blocks right now. I've heard Koffels has a couple of Kolenos but will only sell them if they do the build. My friend sold his Koleno that was blem this summer for 3K, it was used. There was a mega block on racing junk that was missing the caps for 1K. I'd sonic anything used. There are some good ones and some thin ones. KB takes about 6 months and 7K. That leaves Indy aluminum. I know a lot of people that run them.
Doug
 
Brad legman is a good friend of a friend (both went to school together) and was told he dose great work and has a fine shop...

and Eric Jones lives about 5 minutes from me a very cool dude indeed !! Thanks for your input !


You welcome. Never met Eric, but know people that use him. Ive known Brad since he worked at Super Shops.....A LONG TIME. We probably know alot of the same people. Move from SoCal in 05.


Ray
 
"J", Just call Bob Mazolinni Racing in Riverside, CA...

He has a very nice 1966 Hemi for sale (Complete)
Throw that in your 65 Plymouth.
Quit beating around the bush!
 
I made 828hp @ 7200 with a stroked 400. I use it for racing only.

block
sonic tested
decked
four-bolt main caps for the middle three main journals (i used pro-gram main caps www.pro-gram.com)
align bored
lifter bores trued and bushed (this is needed for consistent valve train geometry)
block hardener up to the bottom of the frost plugs — this is essential to keep the cylinder bores round and true.

engine components
4.15” stroke eagle crank (i would get a K1 crank if i were to do it again)
6.760” H-beam 2000 eagle connecting rods
ross racing pistons (custom to achieve 13.91:1 compression)
gapless rings — total seal
milodon external oil system w/ dual pickups and 8 qt pan
comp cams roller lifters
cam motion solid roller dual pattern .720”/.708” lift 283/293 @ .050”
smith bros. push rods

top of motor
indy SR heads -- welded intake (you’d be better off getting indy 440-1 heads)
2.25” intake / 1.81” exhaust valves with a competition 50 degree valve job
ported to flow [email protected] intake / [email protected] exhaust
harlan sharps roller rockers 1.5:1 -- offset intake
indy single plane intake — port matched to heads
holley dominator 8896 carburetor
msd ignition digital 6 plus, crank triggered ignition
tti 2”/2 1/8” step headers
 
Mark what up man !! nice hearing from ya !

you made me laugh man...i often think about just buying a motor already built... but then think n aah that to easy!! anyway i love the whole process of putting it together ,thinking of how much power id love to have ,then how to get there, and I'm diffidently using quality parts !!

"J", Just call Bob Mazolinni Racing in Riverside, CA...

He has a very nice 1966 Hemi for sale (Complete)
Throw that in your 65 Plymouth.
Quit beating around the bush!
 
400 based 4.15 stroke in my 68 Dart/
400 pass's on stock block prepp'd by Muscle Motor's.
Used Indy SR heads
Over 800 hp





Chassis is for sale check out for A-body's web site for details.
Cert to 8.50
Went to a 7.50 car.
 
well lead the way boys where can i find an aftermarket block that's not gonna cost me an arm and a leg ?
look at indy cylinder head price sheet.
You can buy a world aftermarket block, not a reconditioned junk yard block, completly set up and clearanced for your stroker, stroker crank, good rods, 12.5 to forged pistons all for around $5500.00...unassembled...$550 to assemble it.
That setup is good to support 750-800hp, no problem.
Only way to go, i think
 
My vote would be move over to a turbo setup. A BW S475/1.32AR would easily make 800HP on pump gas with no exotic parts, well below typical N/A RPM ranges. I have around $4,000 in my rear mount build with an S475, still running near 10:1 CR with Snow Performance Meth/Water injection.

It isn't as easy as installing a Vortech S/C (have one on my other car), but a simple turn of a switch can take you from 7psi-600HP to 14psi-800+HP. I still get around 14 MPG on the interstate running 75MPH. If you need any info on turbo setups, please visit theturboforums.com, they have a mopar dedicated section. DVW is right on the money, well worth the wait for an actual kit if you want to run a SBM.
 
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I made 828hp @ 7200 with a stroked 400. I use it for racing only.

block
sonic tested
decked
four-bolt main caps for the middle three main journals (i used pro-gram main caps www.pro-gram.com)
align bored
lifter bores trued and bushed (this is needed for consistent valve train geometry)
block hardener up to the bottom of the frost plugs — this is essential to keep the cylinder bores round and true.

engine components
4.15” stroke eagle crank (i would get a K1 crank if i were to do it again)
6.760” H-beam 2000 eagle connecting rods
ross racing pistons (custom to achieve 13.91:1 compression)
gapless rings — total seal
milodon external oil system w/ dual pickups and 8 qt pan
comp cams roller lifters
cam motion solid roller dual pattern .720”/.708” lift 283/293 @ .050”
smith bros. push rods

top of motor
indy SR heads -- welded intake (you’d be better off getting indy 440-1 heads)
2.25” intake / 1.81” exhaust valves with a competition 50 degree valve job
ported to flow [email protected] intake / [email protected] exhaust
harlan sharps roller rockers 1.5:1 -- offset intake
indy single plane intake — port matched to heads
holley dominator 8896 carburetor
msd ignition digital 6 plus, crank triggered ignition
tti 2”/2 1/8” step headers


Your car is mighty fine! Taken at Mopar's in the Park '09.

DSC06647.jpg


DSC06648.jpg
 
I would not trust Indy with anything more than supplying parts that need to be gone through. Good stuff - but not as delievered from them. Find a dealer local to you, and work through the dealer.
 
cool man thanks for the info !!

I would not trust Indy with anything more than supplying parts that need to be gone through. Good stuff - but not as delievered from them. Find a dealer local to you, and work through the dealer.
 
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