From factory the only fuse link on car is the one between starter relay and bulkhead. That will protect the headlight system too, since headlight system is feeded from batt source
71 CHARGER 383 Accessory relay
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You won’t find fusible links in the interior of these cars from the factory. When they blow, they create a good amount of smoke very quickly. The headlamp switch main feed (B1) is intentionally not fused, other than the main fusible link under the hood. It has a resetting circuit breaker built in for the downstream headlamp wiring.
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Yes, for the headlamps and headlamp wiring only. Running/park lights run off a second headlight switch power feed (B2) that is fused at the fuse box on most of these cars.
I have read that allways... 72RoadrunnerGTX says that. Personally I never have parted out the switch and a friend of mine who bypassed the fuselink once got a short with a sealedbeam ( cracked glass and prongs made contact with chassis on headlight bucket ) and switch never reset or whatever. I was looking at the wire burning from headlamp to bulkhead like a gunpowder line LOL
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yeap, thats for Parking lights AND dimmer lights.... then the dimming light output goes back to the fuse box to a second fuse to protect just the dimmer lights. This fuse is of course smaller capacity than the one on the input to blow before the secondary input in case of a short on interior dimming lights without affect the parking lights too
I don't think is necesary. What I told happened because fuse link was unexistant and replaced with a regular wire.
I'm not saying ppl is wrong with the so called reset system on headlight switch ( like a thermic breaker I guess ), maybe is true and the safety system failed on my buddy's car switch... dunno, but just telling what happened.
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The internal circuit breaker is simple bi-metal design. They do fail, normally the bi-metal strip loses tension and will trip under normal loads, headlamps will flash at a slow rate. Adding high current headlamps without relays will also cause this. Another failure path is the contacts fusing together, no circuit overload protection, won’t know about until the headlamps or its wiring short and burn wires.
A good headlamp switch circuit breaker should open before the main fusible link opens.
Yes I guess it must be a bimetallic system. That's what I'm telling it could fail on my buddy's car.
velrob
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im using an aftermarket wiring kit so i would need to add whatever mine is lacking.
the B2 wire goes through a 20A fuse. is this to much should i change it to a 15A fuse?
B1 wire goes to the alternator battery (along with ignition and buzzer) wire that i still need to wire up.
im just wiring each component at a time and testing it directly from a battery for now to make sure they work.
the B2 wire goes through a 20A fuse. is this to much should i change it to a 15A fuse?
B1 wire goes to the alternator battery (along with ignition and buzzer) wire that i still need to wire up.
im just wiring each component at a time and testing it directly from a battery for now to make sure they work.
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