71 RR restoration questions

[99ss]

Whats the best way to go if you are going to mod the appearance a bit anyway.
I am going to get the 71 RR 99.9% sure and I am planning ahead right now.
I can get the car with a 66' 383 complete engine none running, no trans.

I am going to add chin spoilers and the rear wing as well as I like the look. The car is plum crazy purple from the factory. automatic column shift car.

Should I look for a date correct drivetrain and restore the car to oem specs?

What categories can I enter in a car show if I mod it slightly like that?

Is it better to have a numbers matching car or would a date correct 440/6 packs still retain as much if not more value to the car?
I was thinking of adding a 440/6 pack and 4 speed instead of the column shift and 383.

 

[Budnicks]

71 RR's are very cool cars

The correct/right stance, spoiler, wing, wheels, tires, suspension & brake upgrades, paint & interior {color choice, can make or break your value/appeal}, all the previous mentioned stuff can make or break a build {especially resale value}, then the tone/exhaust, then last the engine, a 71 RR probably won't be worth what a "equally built" 68-69 RR or 70 RR, at this time anyway, there are exceptions to that rule thou, mainly with the 426 Hemi or 440 Six Pack/6bbl combos... going with a date coded engine/trans combo can't ever really hurt, especially if you don't have the originals, some people {like me} don't really care as long as it is a quality build, with the appropriate & quality parts, the Numbers matching deal will get about maybe 20% more resale MAX, if it's perfect 100% OEM resoration, for an equally built quality restored car, that's usually only to/for the astute car collector too, the rest of the masses don't really follow things that close, they just care about, popularity, value & appearances.... IMHO the Resto-Mods are going for good money "right now" too... Things alway seem to change, the market is fickeled, it's not like 2007 anymore, it's a buyers market right now, just build it how you want it, don't worry about the rest, unless your buying & building it to resale....

 

[70rr-brian]

Since it was a non 440/6 car and the VIN and fender tag confirm that...I wouldn't bother with a date code correct motor. Date code correct motors only make sense if the VIN and fender tag support it.

I would just build or have a stroker built and be done with it.

 

[70redbee]

Build it the way you like it and drive it like you stole it!

 

[PettyBlue72]

In my opinion, if the original motor/trans are gone then the car will never be numbers matching again. That being the case and you already have a 66 383, which should have a forged crank, I would just build the 383, add a 4 speed, a set of buckets and just build the car the way you like. In modified street form the car would be judged in a modified or modified street class.

Joe

 

[Propwash]

If you try to go 100% OEM resto, you're gonna end up upside down in a huge hurry. Resto-Mod the car..It's actually exciting building a car the way you want it vs. all the headaches with finding NOS parts, research and turning it into a show piece. Nothing against those cars...respect them just the same, just don't think that's the car to make that kind of investment in. With that car, odds are a well thought out and decently built resto mod will pull you more money than the same bird with the period correct 383. Besides, throw a big stroker in it, upgrade the brakes/suspension and the real important judging that will be going on is how fast that OEM car in your rearview is disappearing.

 

[satman72]

I agree with 70redbee & propwash.

Your car is not numbers matching now, and it isn't a highly collectible variant that would make it worthwhile to restore to original.

As Redbee says; Build it like you want it, and drive it like you stole it.

 

[99ss]

Thx guys... 68 Charger just came back with some interesting information... its more money than I want to spend but its the car I want.
My friends out here is telling me ot do nothing and just sit on the money for a while but I know if I do that it will piss away slowly. I feel like I need re-invest. I might have made $31 on the last project..LOL But if I can get this one cheap enough it comes with as truckload of new sheet-metal already. Prop I'm going to send you the link and ask you to check it out .. trust your opinion and you tell me if I am crazy.



these pics concern me

 

[satman72]

I'm not an expert by any means, but to me those things look like they could be fixed fairly easy.

 

[snakeyes]

99ss dont worry about the money burning a hole in your pocket ,send it to me I'll put it in my safe ,and when you need it I'll send it ,and that rust on the inside of the rear window sail panel ,no big deal its a easy repair,how far off on the money are you with this guy ,maybe you can work a deal out with him ,just a thought .:headbang: don't forget there are more out there also take your time .

 

[Propwash]

I'm not an expert by any means, but to me those things look like they could be fixed fairly easy.

I agree...Pretty typical rot for the 68-70 charger, but easily fixable. Send the link on over, i'll take a looksy for ya, no problem. Might want to pick the brains of SGT as well as Smythe68 with their charger resurrections, i'm sure they would have some valuable thoughts as well