moweepea
Well-Known Member
question, using the hard plastic pan gasket from Dodge , do you need any silicone??
727 pan gasket
- Thread starter moweepea
- Start date
mopar367
Well-Known Member
No silicone, it just causes the gasket to squeeze out when tightened. Use "spray a gasket" adhesive. Apply to dry clean surfaces. Works well for me.
mopar367
Well-Known Member
yes I use spray on both sides of the gasket.
The gasket seals the pan to the trans. The cement holds the gasket in place so you can get all the bolts started.
mopar367
Well-Known Member
it holds the gasket in place so when the pan is tightened it doesn't squeeze out. Also acts as an adhesive, for a cork one it glues it on.
mopar367
Well-Known Member
they always leak it seems, I think they were designed that way haha. Automatic undercoating spray
I have the hard plastic gasket on my Ram. Never used any sealers or sprays on it and never had a leak after yearly fluid changes for over 10 years now. Of course, I know our older cars do like to leak after sitting.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I always used a small tad of Permatex, just to hold gasket in place to get the holes lined up, always worked ok for me..
Again, I use Gaska-cinch on the pan side with a cork gasket just to hold it in place. With a rubber or 'plastic' gasket I tie the gasket to the pan with some light string through a couple of holes till I get all the bolts started and then remove the string and put the last two bolts in.
I would take a look at the holes in the pan and see if someone might have overtightened the bolts and dimpled the pan, so that there are high points. Lay a steel rule on the trans side of the pan rails and see if they are perfectly flat. If not, use a small hammer to flatten out the area around the holes. If you back-up the area on the bottom side of the rails with any flat hunk of steel while you gently hammer from the top, you can get it flat. This is exactly like using a hammer and dolly in bodywork.
When you replace the gasket and pan it is imperative to torque the bolts to the factory setting, which in my 63 manual calls for 150 inch lbs.
Should be good to go.
I would take a look at the holes in the pan and see if someone might have overtightened the bolts and dimpled the pan, so that there are high points. Lay a steel rule on the trans side of the pan rails and see if they are perfectly flat. If not, use a small hammer to flatten out the area around the holes. If you back-up the area on the bottom side of the rails with any flat hunk of steel while you gently hammer from the top, you can get it flat. This is exactly like using a hammer and dolly in bodywork.
When you replace the gasket and pan it is imperative to torque the bolts to the factory setting, which in my 63 manual calls for 150 inch lbs.
Should be good to go.
Big G
Active Member
don't use any sealer on that gasket, if look close it has rubber lines running around it, just make sure the trans and pan surfaces are clean and straight. that gasket is reuseble, if its the dealer item. have one in my 65 with a pan off a newer 47re with the filter drop adapter from A&A works great, chrysler came out with them in early 2000's to help pan leaks, got rid off the cork and rubber. work in a dealership from 97 to 07, some times we would replace the pan, because it was bent from being over tightened.
1948 santa
Well-Known Member
What coloradodave said is important with straitening the pan,I span my pan on a vise opened about two inches and use the peen side of a hammer to do what was said been doing it that way for years never had a pan leak yet.
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