727 shift points....

[P Dubya]

Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it. 440/727 combination. Otherwise seems to operate as it should. Thanks!

 

[Darter6]

You can change the governor weights buy removing the tail shaft housing only.
Transmission companies such as A&A has different weights . I like the Max Wedge weight for 6,000 rpm up shifts under full throttle.

 

[Darter6]

Just wanted to add,you can adjust the kick down linkage longer so that it is at or about full stop at the transmission lever.
May give you a little more rpm, Just a thought.

 

[Rishi]

... I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it...

Your throttle pressure linkage may not be set high enough.

As you depress the accelerator pedal, the throttle cable rotates the throttle lever at the carburetor pushing back on the throttle pressure linkage. The TP linkage operates a (pressure) lever down on the transmission. This lever has a range of motion controlling internal oil pressures in the transmission from its minimum setting to it's maximum at the lever.

The ideal settings for the throttle pressure linkage are:
- long enough, so when the carburetor is at maximum throttle (WOT=wide open throttle) the pressure lever is pushed to it's maximum position,
- short enough, so it doesn't push on the pressure linkage at all when at idle so the pressure lever is at it's minimum position.

Shift points can be changed a little by adjusting the throttle pressure linkage. This solution works for 99% of the shifting issues we typically see.

 

[toolmanmike]

Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it. 440/727 combination. Otherwise seems to operate as it should. Thanks!

Show us a photo of the kickdown linkage at your carburetor. Especially the slotted lever and pin on the carb.

 

[Dave6T4]

If you are using an aftermarket cable system, all bets are off. I don't like them; hard to adjust properly.

 

[BSB67]

Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it.

Under what operating conditions? WOT? Part throttle?

 

[P Dubya]

Show us a photo of the kickdown linkage at your carburetor. Especially the slotted lever and pin on the carb.

A little tinkering by an (older than me) old guy that knows his Mopars and it's shifting great!

 

[gtxrt]

this worked on 2 cars. use a b&m shift kit. there are 3 different set ups. use the RV the mildest one. They say to take out the big spring when you pull down the valve body but I kept it in because the first to second light throttle shift was too hard for me. shifts now are a little firmer. it also made my wot shifts go to 5150 -5250 first to second and second to third 5100-5200. you can fine tune by the kick down rod. when stock both cars would shift 4400-4600 rpms even with the kick down rod adjusted all the way.

 

[gtxrt]

this worked on 2 cars. use a b&m shift kit. there are 3 different set ups. use the RV the mildest one. They say to take out the big spring when you pull down the valve body but I kept it in because the first to second light throttle shift was too hard for me. shifts now are a little firmer. it also made my wot shifts go to 5150 -5250 first to second and second to third 5100-5200. you can fine tune by the kick down rod. when stock both cars would shift 4400-4600 rpms even with the kick down rod adjusted all the way.

yes both were Mopar 727

 

[gtxrt]

no comments ?

 

[Rishi]

Your linkage setup looks pretty darn good and OEM, to me. Well done.

FYI, you may be missing a washer on your throttle stud. The slotted-part of the pressure linkage, pushed rearward by the throttle stud, is held in place by a washer and hairpin clip in the center groove of the throttle stud.

In your photo, I think I see the hair pin clip, and even the throttle return spring hook, but no washer between the clip (or throttle return spring hook) and slotted-part of the throttle pressure linkage. Instead, I think I see a round shadow where the washer once rested.

edit: I believe the throttle return spring hook belongs in between the u-shaped clip attached to the throttle cable, at the inner-end of the throttle stud.