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727 Torqueflite question,need advice.

When I was rolling thru the staging lanes a few years ago I went to hit the N button in the 64. Hit the R button at about 10mph. All was fine. Until trying to back out of the trailer the following week. Clunk, then no reverse. Pulled it apart. It snapped the ear off the band.
Doug
 
Thanks Mr. Cranky,I know someone here had to have done it before! So was it fun? Lol. How fast were you going when that happened?

451, I sure agree, a neutral drop will break a lot of parts. Not sure what that gets you for demonstration. Probably hurts more than just the sprag.
Oh man, when I was much younger and much dumber (not that I'm much smarter now), I did lots of neutral drops starting with my first car which was a 66 Belvedere with a poly. Maybe that's why it didn't break? It ran high 17's iirc. Even did some reverse stomps when moving forward doing about 20-25. Going from drive, touch neutral for a split second with the throttle on then into reverse with the throttle matted at the same time hitting reverse then same thing going back into drive. The D to R back to D again was with a 79 D 150 with a Super Coupe 360, Torker Intake, 650 DP and headers, 31x10.5 BFG Sport Truck Radials w/3.91 gears in the 8 3/4 rear end. Housing came out of a 66 pickup and was pretty near a bolt in. Had lots of fun with that thing and did dumb stuff with it too.
 
The early Torqueflight 8 (First year all aluminum) had a "Reverse blocker valve" which prevented reverse engagement at any speed over 20 mph. Don't know if this setup was continued in newer transmissions?

From the 1962 FSM...
View attachment 1397631
Cable shift transmissions only. This feature removed '66 and later.
 
When I was rolling thru the staging lanes a few years ago I went to hit the N button in the 64. Hit the R button at about 10mph. All was fine. Until trying to back out of the trailer the following week. Clunk, then no reverse. Pulled it apart. It snapped the ear off the band.
Doug
I have seen them with the band broken; others with the apply strut bent or puked out. Worst I saw was rear servo exploded and trying to blow itself through the hole in the retainer. I think that was more linked to driving with kick down lever tied back.
 
I have a 340 with a 727 and a slapstik shifter. Around 1984, my linkage was misadjusted after a transmission rebuild. At full throttle, I slapped the shifter to upshift from 1st to 2nd. But the linkage was misadjusted, and the car went from 1st into reverse at full throttle. Yes, it started to do a burnout in reverse while still moving forward at like 30 MPH. Luckily, there was no damage to the transmission but I did damn near soil my pants!

Does this mean they will always survive this kind of abuse? Certainly not. I think I got lucky.

As others have said, check things out carefully.
 
I have a classic picture hanging on my shop wall of Dick Landy looking under a '64 Dodge Max Wedge at all the broken Torqueflight parts and oil on the pavement under it. This was most likely the result of a neutral drop. NHRA outlawed this tactic in 1967.
 
I have a classic picture hanging on my shop wall of Dick Landy looking under a '64 Dodge Max Wedge at all the broken Torqueflight parts and oil on the pavement under it. This was most likely the result of a neutral drop. NHRA outlawed this tactic in 1967.
23a05ca54a7e4cc16e69312c86e62afe.jpg.421f39db3372592f94c651cd7f001c1e.jpg
 
Hi,I’m new here. I had posted this in the “general discussion” threads and realize it belonged here so I’m reposting it.
Im a new member and just joined because I would like to eventually find a 1967 Coronet. I know this isn’t a “B” body question but In my search I recently had a 1970 Duster present itself. It was converted from a 318 to a 360 w 727 torqueflite. The seller says it runs and drives well,but has a broken motor mount and manifold on the drivers side from accidentally being put into reverse when he let his son drive it. He said it was in “D” and at the time in second gear when he tried putting it into neutral and made a loud gear “grinding” sound,locked the wheels and stalled,but after he restarted it that it runs and drives fine. The price seems to be reasonable and the body is pretty decent,but I’m concerned about this and thought I’d get some opinions from the people here.

I know the 727’s are pretty robust transmissions. Do you think if I go to look at this and it drives and shifts alright that transmission and drivetrain are likely ok?
The fact it broke a motor Mount and manifold would indicate the motor twisted pretty hard. Are frames the steering box/mounts on pretty strong? I’d really appreciate any input you guys might have.
Thanks!
To check the motor mount have them in the car running and hood up start the car hold the brakes put it in gear rev the engine and watch what the motor does. Do this in both drive and reverse the engine will lift to one side.
The trans are strong but it about 1500 to have rebuilt, just had mine rebuilt this summer in my 67 charger.
If the engine slammed that hard you will need to check out the gear box as well for damage and leaks.
 
If the unibody is in good shape and price is right, consider it, 727 transmission are very easy to rebuild yourself and cheap to do, just remember 360 is externally balanced vs a 318.( it should have weights on torque converter or BM flex plate if LA engine) lots of very good YouTube videos on rebuilding that tranny. I agree, bring a chain n tools to hold motor down for test drive. Buy using your head not your heart.
 
The 727 is probably OK. It's worth taking a look inside the 727 at some point. A length of chain, a few bolts to keep the motor in place and a test drive. Good luck.
 
Go drive it. If it’s ok you’ll know right away.
 
Back in the eighties while doing 55-60 mph, I started fiddling with my column shifter at its base because it was wobbly. I dropped it into reverse and slammed into the steering wheel. I left two skid marks for about 30 feet. The transmission lasted many years after. A transmission guy I know, who is a Chevy guy, claims 727’s are the strongest of the big three.
 
Used small block 727's are cheap and plentiful. I've seen plenty for $50 or $100 bucks and they don't seem to move sell very fast. I wouldn't let the transmission be a deal killer if everything else checks out.
 
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Back in the eighties while doing 55-60 mph, I started fiddling with my column shifter at its base because it was wobbly. I dropped it into reverse and slammed into the steering wheel. I left two skid marks for about 30 feet. The transmission lasted many years after. A transmission guy I know, who is a Chevy guy, claims 727’s are the strongest of the big three.
Again, don't recall much damage to the 727 we hit reverse at 112 MPH. Don't know if 727s were the strongest, but sure close. I helped one of my Chev buddies re-do a TH 400. Clearly a very stout piece. But the thing was 100 times more complicated than a 727. My confidence in 727's remained high.
 
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