mach123
Well-Known Member
It was 168.70 + gst and holy is it hard to get off yours hands
73 charger starting dismantle stage
- Thread starter mach123
- Start date
It was 168.70 + gst and holy is it hard to get off yours hands
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
If you are not going to wear latex gloves make sure you don't have to go to the little boys room, it would turn into one of those days if you got any on your.................you know.
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Superfreak
Well-Known Member
You missed my other query of where in Alberta you reside.
mach123
Well-Known Member
Sorry i live in st albert just north of Edmonton
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Well i have fin trunk and have done my 1 coat and is starting to look better and second coat is done in the car now. So i have a question superfreak, my ceiling looks like it has had moisture looking rust but not rust rust on metal should i use a coat of rust bullet on it or just some insulation material. Thx
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
I have a 512 stroker in my car. Not exactly sure what the difference is but the way the engine builder who did mine said that going with the stroker kit I did is better because the design of my kit is more expensive a route to go, but also less maintenance. It has a piston design that has the oil ring above the piston pin which means I can put many worry free miles on the car. You can see my thread here on my build.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...2-The-71-Charger-500-becomes-a-SuperBee-clone!
Nice project BTW. Good luck.
mach123
Well-Known Member
Thx and i will look at your build, i have body guy coming to look at car next week to get me a price to prep outside ready for paint once my parts come in and then will start removing engine and tranny and start cleaning engine bay.
roadrunnerman
Well-Known Member
I would put something on there that stops the rust from spreading or take as much rust off as you can than spray with some epoxy/self-etch primer. You don't want to just put the insulation up there as that will trap the moisture/rust in between and it will keep spreading. Do what you can now as long as it is open.
Superfreak
Well-Known Member
Clean the rust off with a scotch brite pad on you angled air grinder and then coat it with the rust bullet and call it done. Get in all the nooks and crannies. I did some work in St. Albert 3 yrs ago and a very good friend of mine lives there.
mach123
Well-Known Member
I go through there lots, will buzz you next time I come through and take a look at that voom voom. maybe have coffee ..........
mach123
Well-Known Member
Ya that is what I was thinking of doing, because that insulation traps moisture for sure, Well if you need anything to send or bring to buddies let me know, anytime. Well I have been sanding roof this week and will be meeting bodyman this week and will let you know what he says, then will be doing the last of rust bullet and be good to go, I will be pulling the 318 and tranny out and get rid of it and start to sand/strip and clean engine bay up.Thx
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What are you specs for your 512 build, like heads,bore,stroke,cam and etc just found out that the wifes cousin has a 68 charger with a 512 in his with a 5 speed stick it was a columm 3 speed auto, then just bought a barrett jackson 69 mach 1 fast back, and has a pick up srt with the viper chassie and engine in it. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Wookie316
Well-Known Member
Here is my build. I’d do a different head and cam if I were you. I had already bought my heads, intake and cam before I decided to go this big with my stroker, so I’d probably do a better head and a roller cam if I was to do it again. The good part of my build is that since my bottom end is all done, I can always change the heads, intake and cam at a later date if I so choose. I’d also do EFI if I were to do it again too! Price on EFI is decent now. May actually change mine at a later date.
Here is my build though.
400 bored and stroked to 512.
Callies Dragonslayer crank
Diamond pistons (not sure what the final compression ratio was?)
SCAT H-Beam Rods
Mopar aluminum heads (452 casting mold)
Comp Cam and Comp adjustable rockers. This is the cam I used.
http://store.440source.com/Comp-Cam-Xtreme-Energy-Hi-Lift-545/productinfo/145-1228/
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold
Holley 870 Street Avenger
Holley Mechanical fuel pump
This setup made 513 HP and 608 Ft/Lbs torque on the dyno. Can’t remember chassis #’s but it’s still over 400 HP & 500 Ft/Lbs to the rear, lots to get you in trouble. The smaller head/cam I used robbed some HP, but with that smaller cam I can tell you it sure runs nice and is a joy to drive on the street! I am quite happy with how it turned out.
Hope this helps!
Here is my build though.
400 bored and stroked to 512.
Callies Dragonslayer crank
Diamond pistons (not sure what the final compression ratio was?)
SCAT H-Beam Rods
Mopar aluminum heads (452 casting mold)
Comp Cam and Comp adjustable rockers. This is the cam I used.
http://store.440source.com/Comp-Cam-Xtreme-Energy-Hi-Lift-545/productinfo/145-1228/
Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold
Holley 870 Street Avenger
Holley Mechanical fuel pump
This setup made 513 HP and 608 Ft/Lbs torque on the dyno. Can’t remember chassis #’s but it’s still over 400 HP & 500 Ft/Lbs to the rear, lots to get you in trouble. The smaller head/cam I used robbed some HP, but with that smaller cam I can tell you it sure runs nice and is a joy to drive on the street! I am quite happy with how it turned out.
Hope this helps!
mach123
Well-Known Member
Yes Thx, I am gonna go with edelbrock rpm allum heads ported for sure, got my 400 block .030 over already, will use 440 source rotating stroker kit and will see what for rest of it, research more, lol
mach123
Well-Known Member
Here are some updates, I have sanded 95% of the inside and have painted with rust bullet, great stuff to work with, here are couple pics. Still having trouble getting dash out, I can't seem to find last couple bolts, lol
mach123
Well-Known Member
Well guys, I am back and been reading and looking. I have went through a nasty separation and car got put away. I have moved to bc and started a new company and car came with me and now gonna start working on it again . So will start taking pics and posting again. Thx
roadrunnerman
Well-Known Member
everything looks nice and clean. sorry about the separation.
mach123
Well-Known Member
Thx but it was good, now I can move on.......I just bought myself a Miller 140 and learn to weld. Lol. Well is it better to remover every part and bring to body shop or leave doors hood and lid on. Thx
roadrunnerman
Well-Known Member
I think it would be better to leave everything on. Will keep everything together in transit.
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