73 Charger, what are the gotchu"s in removing dash...

[bandit67]

Guys, got the engine/firewall bay stripped and heading towards repaint. Noticed the dash and components looking rough, broken and needing much attention. Found some u tube vids on a 73 Challenger which showed removing 4 bolts in the top vent area and loosening the two bottom side bolts and just rolling the whole unit forward to facilitate determing , removal of attached components then pulling the whole dash. Is that about the same for my Charger. About to pull the windshield , so thinking that would be the time to do it....thanks...

 

[T2R9]

Pretty much the same. Remove the top plate, bolts along the front, loosen the two side bolts and swing top down. Speedo cable nornally needs disconnected before it will swing to far. I use a short 2x4 to support it while I disconnect the wiring and cables for the heater.

 

[odcics2]

No need to remove windshield...
Swapped a few dash pads back in the day!

 

[YY1]

Getting on the screws near the windshield can be challenging.

I got a fiber 1/4" extension for HF that is about 6" long and moderately flexible yet not wobbly.

Almost the exact right tool for that job.

 

[SureGrip]

Getting on the screws near the windshield can be challenging.

I got a fiber 1/4" extension for HF that is about 6" long and moderately flexible yet not wobbly.

Almost the exact right tool for that job.

Yeah, this is the toughest part (or can be)...just plan on a long extension.

If the headliner is gone, you can run a bungie cord from the dash frame up to the header panel.

 

[YY1]

The first time I took out the dash I used a 1/4" ratchet and u joint.

Excruciatingly slow and bruised my knuckles hitting the windshield.

I would have gladly paid $100 for this $5 tool-

 

[bandit67]

Ok, great, are the top screws philip heads or bolt heads. And I suppose there are four of them. Were you able to pull the dash out of the car by yourself or is that a two man crew thing for sure....thanks

 

[SureGrip]

The first time I took out the dash I used a 1/4" ratchet and u joint.

Excruciatingly slow and bruised my knuckles hitting the windshield.

I would have gladly paid $100 for this $5 tool-

View attachment 941777

That's the exact unit I have just for that purpose.

 

[SureGrip]

Ok, great, are the top screws philip heads or bolt heads. And I suppose there are four of them. Were you able to pull the dash out of the car by yourself or is that a two man crew thing for sure....thanks

I've done it by myself (when I was younger) but it's awkward as hell. You'll need to make sure to drop the steering column (loosen the base plate at the firewall too) to make room.

 

[bandit67]

Steering column has been removed , cleaned off the crud and found the four hex head screws in the dash vents. Pretty sure I will pull the windshield at some point and I think that will aid in the dash coming out .Dang these simple projects just seem to expand once you start to pullin stuff. Prolly will just have to spend the bucks to replace that cracked dash pad. Seems that is the focal point once inside. My non A/C heater control unit appears too busted up to repair and Year One does not list anything for a 73, is anyone making replacement units....thanks...

 

[YY1]

Windshield really does not impact dash removal on 71-74.

Especially if you have that $5 tool I posted.

If your windshield doesn't leak and isn't cracked or foggy, I'd leave it.

As others have said, rotate it down and rest it on the seat or a milk crate so you can get at the wiring on the back side, then undo the bottom side pivot bolts and slide it out.

I've done it twice in four years.

 

[451Mopar]

Yes, pretty easy on those cars. Need to drop or remove steering column first. The upper screws can be removed with the windshield in the car (Unlike my '69 Coronet.) remove the connectors from the engine side of bulkhead connector and the bulkhead connector can be pushed back inside the car, so don't have to disconnect much wiring. There is also the door switch (dome Light) wires at each door, and the rear harness connector behind drivers side kick panel.
I don't recall the vacuum line routing. where it disconnects near the firewall / heater box? be careful of the temp control switch vacuum connections so they don't break.

 

[SassyPants]

Two Five Gallon Paint Buckets, plus two Moving Blankets work GREAT when you rotate the dash back. Then you can fiddle with the widgets behind the instrument cluster as the dash comes out. Best, B.

 

[SassyPants]

Or, as you can see, I used two Coat Hangers to hold it as well. I have a 4sp car and I have to use two really thick blankets on the 5 gallon paint cans or the dash rests on the Shifter. Best, B.

 

[YY1]

That's not a 73, but since you posted a 66...

Which bolts are the ones you have to remove the windshield to get at (which you don't have to do on a 73)?

 

[SassyPants]

On the 66, there are 5 bolts that are right behind where the Windshield lays. You can see the Bolts as they are Black against the Red of the car. I was just showing how you might lay your dash down when you get your bolts out rather than holding onto it while undoing all the connections behind the dash.

 

[SassyPants]

Oh, and the wires are going through two of the bolt holes that hold the Dash in place on the 66. Best, B.