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8.25 sure grip

Why not just get an 8 3/4?

Mainly Cost. Also good to 400HP. There are many "wheels up" A body racers using 8.25 so plenty strong
for street B-Body.
The question is....why not 9.25? Stronger than 8.75, Plentiful, Cheap and can be had with disc brakes on newer
versions. They did come in mid-late 70's Cordoba, etc but getting hard to find. Straight bolt in with those.
 
I swapped a 9.25 into mine 40 years ago had 2.76 in a 8.25 went to a 3.21 9.25 found a drive shaft correct length
best thing I ever did
 
Mainly Cost. Also good to 400HP. There are many "wheels up" A body racers using 8.25 so plenty strong
for street B-Body.
The question is....why not 9.25? Stronger than 8.75, Plentiful, Cheap and can be had with disc brakes on newer
versions. They did come in mid-late 70's Cordoba, etc but getting hard to find. Straight bolt in with those.
I mean if you search you can buy an 8.75 housing for a b body around $100 I did when I had my 70rr. Bought a rebuilt 4.10 suregrip in a 489 chunk for $600. The budget isn’t that bad. Or never have to worry about it when decide you want more kick in the car piece and build a 9inch for it.
 
well-

1- maybe an 8 1/4 is already in your car.

2- some years have odd axle lengths that don't lend themselves readily to the commonly found "100 dollar" 8 3/4 housings.

3- weight- the 8 3/4 weighs a LOT more than an 8 1/4 and has greater rolling resistance.
 
well-

1- maybe an 8 1/4 is already in your car.

2- some years have odd axle lengths that don't lend themselves readily to the commonly found "100 dollar" 8 3/4 housings.

3- weight- the 8 3/4 weighs a LOT more than an 8 1/4 and has greater rolling resistance.
The $100 housing was from a 66-70 b body. Which I had. Axles were plenty available. And I had multiple pumpkins for things I wanted to do. Big trips, drag racing, and it put plenty of power.
 
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