8 3/4 axle end play adjustment Help!

[furyus63]

Matthon, I did not see the make or year of your car. From your photo is your car a 1963 Plymouth Fury Station Wagon. If so I may be able to provide some information on how I corrected the same problem on my '63 Fury.

 

[Bird 426]

And did you repack the axle bearings with grease?

 

[matthon]

is your car a 1963 Plymouth Fury Station Wagon.

1964 Fury wagon.

 

[matthon]

And did you repack the axle bearings with grease?

Not this time.
The rearend had everything done, soup to nuts, bearings, seals, brakes, 4:10, springs, and I drove it last year in the 2 door hardtop.

I swapped the center section, put new wagon springs on it, and slid it under the wagon.
Everything looked as good as new, seals, bearings/races, axles, studs, etc. Made sure the seals were in all the way.
Couldn't pack the bearings anymore.

Now that it's back in the wagon, going to try my hand at replacing the pinion seal, never done one before.

Got a new seal from Dr. Diff as well as the sleeve in case the yoke is worn, plus another yoke if needed.

Putting a large pipe wrench on the yoke and hoping I can crack this nut loose.

 

[matthon]

So the 15x8 4.25 bs with the L-60 MT just fits, but they're dry rotted.

Plan was to get 275/60s, but when I tried the 15x8 4.5 bs 275/60s off my Dart the space between the tire and the quarter/lip are the exact same.

The 275/60 is more rounded, and basically the equivalent of the MT, although the MT squared off.

Scratching my head as to why the 275/60 with the larger bs fits the same?

May have to go with a smaller tire with the 4.25 bs.

 

[matthon]

I marked the yoke, pinion, and nut with a paint pen.
I figure there's a margin of error as I'm doing this under the car, it's dirty, and I cleaned up the yoke and nut, but I smacked the nut with a chisel before cleaning it.

Large pipe wrench on the yoke, it came off fairly easy with my weak 90psi gun.

Putting it back together, pipe wrench again, yoke rock steady, can't get it back to my so called mark.
Even turned up the psi to 100+, worked it back and forth a few times, breaker bar with jack handle on it, not much room for it though. Even tried a jack under the breaker bar, but didn't push that very far.

I don't feel any play, back and forth, up and down.
New seal was driven home all the way.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Did you lube up the threads? Torque spec is 240 foot pounds, or more correctly pounds feet.

 

[matthon]

Did you lube up the threads?

No, with what exactly?

I saw the torque spec in the fsm, which my torque wrench doesn't come close to, but not the assembly procedure.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Engine oil would work. I torqued mine to 150, and then added some with my 1" drive ratchet. In your case since all the parts are the same, tightening up to the same marks should work, but a little oil would make it easier.

 

[Encswsm]

Engine oil would work. I torqued mine to 150, and then added some with my 1" drive ratchet. In your case since all the parts are the same, tightening up to the same marks should work, but a little oil would make it easier.

Adding lubricant changes the torque value. I guess not having a torque wrench that goes high enough. they say to reduce the torque by 25% when using Lubricant during torque.
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

 

[matthon]

Attempted again today, bent my breaker bar and then the socket side made a pop sound. It spread apart exposing what I assume is the broken pin.

I don't foresee me getting this thing any tighter.

Fluid was flowing out the original seal, so I saw it as a needed repair.
Bummer.