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8 3/4 green bearings,,

I think its an open diff,,, with two pinion carrier and the pin that floats does not have any type of pin in it to is solid with a slot threw the middle to float on!!! This is where the problem is with removeing it.
 
Take the ring gear caps off.I dont know why 69 bee didnt want the axles cut. they cut c body axles everyday and respline them. I have a set of moser b axles i,m fixing to cut for an a rear because they are splined maybe 4 inches. Plenty of splines after they will be cut. Some people are just a little too hesitant. Old rodders did stuff like this every day out of neccesity.

Yeah it ain't like people just started cuttin axles. It's been goin on successfully for a LONG time. lol
 
This is what the thrust pin/block looks like in a cone type SureGrip or an open diff....and it will not come out without taking the carrier apart. If you have the clutch plate type SureGrip, it's either gone already (like mentioned above) but if not, it will look like two nail heads roll pinned together and you should be able to punch them out without taking the carrier apart.....the ends that are a different color are where the axles butt against.

MVC-023S.jpg
 
I think its an open diff,,, with two pinion carrier and the pin that floats does not have any type of pin in it to is solid with a slot threw the middle to float on!!! This is where the problem is with removeing it.

If it is an open diff, to remove the thrust spacer you will have to remove the carrier from the axle housing.

Take note of current lash (you dont have to worry about pinion depth as you dont need to mess with the pinion)

Remove the rotating assemply (ring gear and spider assembly) remove the ring gear (remembering that the bolts are left threaded) You will now be able to find the roll pin holding the cross pin in place and with a thin punch, knock it out. The cross pin should easilly slide out and the spacer fall out.... NOTE: hold the spiders so that they dont fall out too.

Once the thrust spacer is out, reinsert the cross pin and roll pin and reassemble, retorque bolts to spec (ring bolts are 35 or 45lbs I think and the caps are 75lbs I think) and re-adjust lash. The rest goes back the way it was removed.

T
 
Yup, I messed up. Open diffs, the cross shaft has to be pulled and the ring gear is in the way...been many moons since working on one of those....
 
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