8 pt roll cage question

[inri]

One thing to think about is the safety factors of a roll cage vs roll bar on the street. It could actually be more dangerous with a cage. Bare head to front and/or side top bars of a cage could be a problem in a wreck, even with padding. There is the same risk with just a roll bar just not as much. I guess you could just wear some good tight racing shoulder belts all the time you're driving on the street, but that may not be street legal, not sure on that. And I'll bet your head could still hit somewhere. Or just wear a helmet, lol..
Also, I realize that talking about cheap safety parts is an oxymoron, but I only paid $350 for a jegs 8pt roll bar kit that was made/bent for my specific car, the main hoop anyway. Then I added a couple more from the side bars to the fire wall and from there forward to the shock towers. But if your money is not as tight as mine get the best you can, just make sure it's welded right and attached right.

Thanks Daytona for the info and your experience.

I was told that the headliner which is in great condition will need to come out along with the other interior pieces to prevent damage to them. At this point I'm a bit frustrated that it's such a big expense because the former knucklehead owner didn't do the rear roll bars how I would want it! :icon_lol:

On top of this the rear glass window needs to come out and possibly the front. I'm trying to see where I may be able to reduce the bleeding but still have a safe, functioning aesthetically pleasing roll-bar or cage.

I sent an email to the custom fab shop to see if I supplied chromemoly in 8' lengths Chrome/MolyRound: 1-3/4" O.D. x .083" wall, can they supply the gussets and other necessary items, obviously at an additional cost. I can pick up 8' * (8) pieces for just over $400, including shipping of $80. 64' should be enough but if its not I can add another 8' or so.

Also I don't care for the diagonal shoulder bars, due to it's hard for me to climb in and out of the car. I've heard from some roll cage owners that the swing out bars "rattle" and can be noisy even with suppressors of some type added. The shop said they can customise the shoulder bars to come down and out of the way and run to the front of the cage! that was some good news!

 

[dvw]

I've done roll bars with all the glass and the headliner in. Cover every thing to protect from sparks, including all glass. Weld spatter melts into glass. Then fit it and tack it. Don't fully weld your main hoop attachment at the base whether it is outrigger or plate. Cut the main hoop tacks at the base, drop the bar assy thru the floor. Weld the rear bars to the main hoop. Raise the entire assy back up and weld all your floor/chassis points. For a street strip car slower than 10.0 I would run a bar, not a cage.
Doug

 

[inri]

I've done roll bars with all the glass and the headliner in. Cover every thing to protect from sparks, including all glass. Weld spatter melts into glass. Then fit it and tack it. Don't fully weld your main hoop attachment at the base whether it is outrigger or plate. Cut the main hoop tacks at the base, drop the bar assy thru the floor. Weld the rear bars to the main hoop. Raise the entire assy back up and weld all your floor/chassis points. For a street strip car slower than 10.0 I would run a bar, not a cage.
Doug

Wow DVW you explained that very well. Doing it that way no doubt saves a bit of coin (headliner and glass detached). Think the rear glass can be kept in even with "rear seat saver" bars installed?
What would you recommend covering headliner and interior walls with? Cardboard?

 

[dvw]

Wow DVW you explained that very well. Doing it that way no doubt saves a bit of coin (headliner and glass detached). Think the rear glass can be kept in even with "rear seat saver" bars installed?
What would you recommend covering headliner and interior walls with? Cardboard?

The last roll bar I did has the rear seat in it and is usable. I did not remove the headliner or the glass. Remember not to weld the rear down bars to the floor either. You may have to trim part of the package shelf metal to have room for the bars to pivot. Make a neat cut and reweld the parts in when your done.
Doug

 

[daytona kid]

I don't think gussets on bars are legal with nhra, not sure tho.

 

[dvw]

Gussets are legal in instances where you cant weld the full tube. I do not use them for that purpose. I add them for addition strength. see them in the corners?
Doug

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[RacerAL]

As Doug stated, the gussets are legal and are used when the windshield tube and halo tube cant be completely welded at the top. Im in the process of putting a cage in my Colt...it will have the gussets for the windshield bar and the halo.

 

[383man]

I welded my rollbar in my 63 and left the headliner and all glass in it. I actually used a large piece of 1/4" thick plexyglass to cover the headliner and it worked good. I also did not want a cage in my street car as I dont plan on going faster then 10.0's even if I make it faster and I feel its less bars to hit my head on in case of a crash on the street. Ron