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833 input shaft bushing vs bearing

wsutard

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I’m wondering what people recommend for the input pilot of an 833, bearing or bushing?

My specific situation is my crank is drilled to accept an 833. I chose the bearing over the bushing from Brewers thinking that a bearing would be superior. However, the pilot shaft of my 833 will interfere with the bearing due to the little raised portion at the base of the shaft (see pic, ruler points to start of the raises portion). Brewers recommends to “dress” this area down so there is 1/8” of space between this area and the bearing.

Now I’m thinking of switching to the bushing instead of using this bearing.

Thoughts?
4B5795A2-4B3D-4BFE-85FC-71191F8FC9F9.jpeg
 
Bushing.
Did Brewer say the bearing would even fit in a manual trans crank. Would be surprised if it did. Some will not even accept a torque converter on count of the hole being smaller.
 
Bushing.
The less little roller bearings in these old cars, the better.
 
The bronze bushing is a good bushing. The bearing sounds better (been there), but when it wears over time it fails. The bronze bushing is my first choice and can take a beating during assembly. I had a roller bearing come apart during transmission installation when the input shaft didn’t hit dead center. Just my experience. If you decide to go with the bearing you will have to dress the lip down on the shaft if your input shaft does in fact go in that far. Was the bearing fully seated in the crank?
 
I've never understood the argument. The bushing is without a doubt the way to go if you understand the function: The ONLY time the input shaft spins in the bushing is when the clutch is depressed, otherwise the crank and input shaft are always spinning as one. So the bushing see's minimal wear. Why would you want to replace something with no moving parts with something with many moving parts? Makes no sense. The ONLY reason to use bearing would be if the crank isn't drilled for the bushing.
 
The b287 bushing that taps into the converter register is no longer available.

I also went with the bearing from Brewers,but after several thousand miles I pulled the transmission to put a new clutch in, and decided to put a bushing back in.

I used a puller to remove the bearing from the flange that taps into the register, and replaced it with a true Oilite bushing from McMasrer Carr for $3.00. The bushing is 1.00" od x .750" id" x 500" wide.

Froze the bushing and drove it in place of the bearing.

Beware of sintered iron bushings that come in some clutch kits. They may wear on the input shaft.

Part number below.

45484D9F-9B84-41CC-A042-C4091071BD8D.jpeg 5CF561FA-073F-4CC1-9470-3FC8579EDCC1.jpeg
 
FYI.
The OD of a stock pilot bushing is .940”

You can buy an undersized pilot bushing that measures .915”.
This one gets used when you have an auto trans crankshaft that is rough drilled for the input shaft pilot bushing, but not finish honed.
 
Well that settles it. Bushing it is. I will yank out the bearing and go with this bushing. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...70/dodge/coronet?q=Clutch+Pilot+Bushing&pos=0

Any other ways to pull the bearing other than a slide hammer?

———————-
Pack the hole in the center full of grease (completely full). Then drive a rod into the hole (same size as the input shaft) with a hammer with one hard swing and the hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out toward you.
 
Any other ways to pull the bearing other than a slide hammer?

Mine was already installed in the crank when I decided to swap in a bushing. Bought this puller thinking I would be able to get behind the whole assembly and pull it out. But the hub that the bearing is pressed into sits flush with the iside of the crank so there was no lip to grab with the puller. So I just used the puller to yank the needle bearing out. Mic'd the bearing and bought a bushing of the same dimension.

I shopped for a .915" bushing but couldn't find one.

C4AA978E-2820-4482-924D-D81AB87348FD.png
 
Pack the hole in the center full of grease (completely full). Then drive a rod into the hole (same size as the input shaft) with a hammer with one hard swing and the hydraulic pressure will push the bearing out toward you.

If his bearing is already installed in the crank, and his crank is machined like mine, then this might not work, since there is no "lip" for the grease to push against. When I tried this method on mine, the grease just pushed out from between the rollers.

Your results may vary.
 
FYI.
The OD of a stock pilot bushing is .940”

You can buy an undersized pilot bushing that measures .915”.
This one gets used when you have an auto trans crankshaft that is rough drilled for the input shaft pilot bushing, but not finish honed.
Thanks for the info. Looks like the Oreilly’s one is stock, which is what I need.
 
Don't neglect checking crankshaft to transmission centerline alignment. Mine was off .011" which I corrected with offset dowels from McRobb.
Mike
 
Same here. I had to use the .007 dowels
The Robbmc dowels are nice.

Don't neglect checking crankshaft to transmission centerline alignment. Mine was off .011" which I corrected with offset dowels from McRobb.
Mike
 
Don't neglect checking crankshaft to transmission centerline alignment. Mine was off .011" which I corrected with offset dowels from McRobb.
Mike
I did this on my 340 and it was frustrating. I was hoping to not have to do this again. Bought my bellhousing new from brewers.
 
I did this on my 340 and it was frustrating. I was hoping to not have to do this again. Bought my bellhousing new from brewers.
Yeah, you should really check it.
Manufacturing tolerances are enough to bring you out of spec.
 
Over on the Corvette Forum I have seen multiple pictures posted by guys who ran bearings for the input shaft for their Muncie trans and when they failed, they seized to the input shaft tip and it got pretty ugly fast. It almost certainly would require replacement of the input due to the scoring and grinding.
 
Over on the Corvette Forum I have seen multiple pictures posted by guys who ran bearings for the input shaft for their Muncie trans and when they failed, they seized to the input shaft tip and it got pretty ugly fast. It almost certainly would require replacement of the input due to the scoring and grinding.
Agree 100%.
Not sure why Wayne B pushes the roller bearing when they are not necessary.
 
Yeah, you should really check it.
Manufacturing tolerances are enough to bring you out of spec.
What is the spec for the bellhousing alignment? I’m at .005 left to right and .0035 up and down. Seems like the alignment is good.
 
I believe it’s .008 or less.
Check the FSM to be sure.
What is the spec for the bellhousing alignment? I’m at .005 left to right and .0035 up and down. Seems like the alignment is good.
 
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