A Public service announcement for 4-speed owners

[blue69runner]

My crank had deep groves in it and the motor builder said it was from Ridding the clutch or maybe a failing toque converter. So it was on the second bearing cap also. Yes don't ride the clutch when driving. Or hold the clutch in except to change gear's. Point well taken on the pictures you showed.

 

[EARLY B]

Mahle-clevite has info on oil improvement for the thrust side of the main bearing. Suggest to file 0.040 off the top bearing in the block on the rear side at the parting line to increase oil flow to thrust area. they show photos of how. 4secondsflat has this info also

 

[Ranger16]

As I said in my initial post, I would tend to believe that it was most likely caused by over-cranking an engine that has sat for long periods of time with the clutch depressed.

One more good reason to prime the float bowls after a long rest.

 

[funknut]

Honest question, but how are you planning to address this? Just swap in a new thrust bearing and button it back up? Or is more needed to make it right?

 

[moparedtn]

my bad.... I was still on my first cup of jo, and I knew I was right

I deserve a red X

Here ya go:

 

[mopar 3 B]

Anyone old enough "well yes most of us are" to remember when the starter button was under the clutch pedal and activated when disengaging the clutch. Then there were those totally separate from anything but still required a foot. Can still remember those times sitting on the edge of the truck seat so I could reach the pedals on the old Studebaker truck hoping it would start without needing gas because if it did it was a three foot operation even out of gear if not parked on level ground. Must have been 12 or 13 at the time.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Honest question, but how are you planning to address this? Just swap in a new thrust bearing and button it back up? Or is more needed to make it right?

You didn't fully read post #1.............

When I bought this car, I also bought a bunch of NOS parts & included were new main & rod bearings, so I put a complete new thrust bearing in which tightened the clearances up. There was a slight amount of wear on the side journal which made the end play slightly over spec, but I'm sure that it'll be fine. I'll be buttoning things up as soon as my cam gear set comes in & will report on things once I restart the engine.

 

[polyjohn]

Nice thread!

The thrust bearing is always a worry in manual cars and auto's too.
The pre 69/70 cranks/blocks are obviously designed for the narrower bearing.
Thats why if I'm building a 4 speed engine I like to use the 70-up 'wide flanged' steel cranks.
I have also modified the wide centre bearing to fit in the earlier block as well.
But where ever possible I would use the later CAST crank 440-blocks with the wider faced bearing.

We are very lucky here in the UK due to the large amount of EX-Jensen 440 engines.
They are all 1972-1976 HP blocks with the wide bearing SP crankshafts!
Thay all have SP rods and a quick change to a Hyper piston and the 'jobs a gooden'...

 

[funknut]

You didn't fully read post #1.............

Yep, sure didn't!

 

[blue69runner]

Anyone old enough "well yes most of us are" to remember when the starter button was under the clutch pedal and activated when disengaging the clutch. Then there were those totally separate from anything but still required a foot. Can still remember those times sitting on the edge of the truck seat so I could reach the pedals on the old Studebaker truck hoping it would start without needing gas because if it did it was a three foot operation even out of gear if not parked on level ground. Must have been 12 or 13 at the time.

I was just telling a buddy of mine about the starter switch being on the floor board. Guess were a couple of old dinosaurs. LOL.

 

[Ceedawg]

I was just telling a buddy of mine about the starter switch being on the floor board. Guess were a couple of old dinosaurs. LOL.

My grandfather’s 46 Dodge 3/4 ton truck was next to gas pedal, the Nash (huge thing) was under the gas pedal, I think, been 60 some years

 

[blue69runner]

I am in my mid 60's. Guess we keep the old vehicles around down south for a long time. Or the older ones just lasted better than the newer car from the 60's and up. I do believe they where made to last back then. Not be thrown away. They where much simpler to work on and not the night mare the new gen car's are to day.

 

[Challenger340]

Yep.... everytime you step on that fancy new Clutch/Pressure Plate ?
You are indeed trying to stuff your Crankshaft out the front of your Block.... with only that teensie-weensie little #3 Thrust Brg face to stop it ?
and...
making things even worse is that the only lubrication to assist that Thrust face in doing it's job is leakage/throw-off ? NOT optimal !

So seeing as how we're doing Public Service announcements....
here's one we started applying on all our BB Mopars/Hemi's decades ago..... and later started applying as a campaign change on the PSCA Turbo'd 10.5" Tire class Ferd dorks to stop those meatheads from trash'in their Cranks while spool'in up at the line....
works GREAT !
just applies a very small "pressurized" Oil Feed to the rear Thrust face from the center Oil Pressure groove to help things out !

The Ferd dorks thought we were hero's because we could make their junk live with this Mod ?
Before then...
It had been kinda comical watching SCAT BLAME the faulty Clevitte thrust bearings.... and Clevitte Tech Bulletins BLAMING the Thrust finish on SCAT Cranks
back and forth...
back and forth...
we just sat back piss'in ourselves laughing with our nail file watching 2 Companies sling mud at each other ? and thinking WTF is wrong with common sense these days ? NOT that common in the Ferd ranks I guess ?

Should be self-explanatory in the Pics.... about .030" wide is PLENTY !

 

[Challenger340]

Nice thread!

The thrust bearing is always a worry in manual cars and auto's too.
The pre 69/70 cranks/blocks are obviously designed for the narrower bearing.
Thats why if I'm building a 4 speed engine I like to use the 70-up 'wide flanged' steel cranks.
I have also modified the wide centre bearing to fit in the earlier block as well.
But where ever possible I would use the later CAST crank 440-blocks with the wider faced bearing.

We are very lucky here in the UK due to the large amount of EX-Jensen 440 engines.
They are all 1972-1976 HP blocks with the wide bearing SP crankshafts!
Thay all have SP rods and a quick change to a Hyper piston and the 'jobs a gooden'...

Doesn't matter how 'wide' the Thrust Brg in the Block is if it doesn't get sufficient lubrication ?
We've run both wide and narrow(early) Thrust Blocks .... apply the above Mod I posted and problem solved.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Do you call your wife submit? Lol lol

I do here.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I was just telling a buddy of mine about the starter switch being on the floor board. Guess were a couple of old dinosaurs. LOL.

Two years before I got my driver's license dad put a V8 in that old Studebaker with an electric starter solenoid "key switch". I think the whole family was tickled it had become a two foot start vehicle instead of the three know one had. Dad bought that old truck new just before they got married. Mom still has it. Dad passed away about 7 years ago. We are hoping it stays in the family.