a727a small block trans noise

[65coronet70dart]

Hey guys i just got my 318 rebuilt and back in my 65 dodge coronet. The a727a small block transmission had no problems before i pulled it and the engine out. i put the rebuilt engine and the transmission back in and now i am getting a very weird sound. it sounds like the parking mechanism isn't disengaging all the way and its making a clicking/ticking, i just took it around the block and as you speed up the noise gets faster. this has the stock column shift, and there is two transmission control cables. what do i do? how do i adjust for this, I'm pretty dang sure i put everything back the way it was. it doesn't sound good. Im not sure, but i think one of the control cables all it does it engage park to "lock" the transmission from rolling down a hill or what not. i must have not put it back together exactly the same or there is a adjustment, but i didn't see a adjustment, and why would it need adjusting if it worked before just fine. everything shifts good from park to reverse to neutral drive 2 1. at first it was just "air" working its way out, but now it sounds like a mechanical metal on metal contact sound. let me know what you guys think, appreciate all the input.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Before you go further, remove the torque converter cover first. Sometimes when it gets put back on, it isn't quite straight. The torque converter bolts can be hitting the cover, and will make that noise.

 

[PDFROGMAN]

you can also check and make sure the flex plate isnt cracked that will give you a ticking noise.
you also referred to cables is this a cable operated trans?
if so the rear cable is the parking pawl and miss adjusted will also make a rattle or clicking noise

 

[65coronet70dart]

ok guys when i pulled the engine and transmission out there were no problems with the transmission, so in theory i should have been able to put it all back together no problems. i know the flex plate is good i inspected it before i put it back on, i know the torque converter was installed properly, but i pulled the dust cover and nothing is rubbing. i did a little more digging tonight, put the car up on jack stands, started it put it in gear, and the noise is coming from the rear cable parking control, so it has to do with parking mechanism. when it is at idle in drive with the wheels in the air spinning, it makes the noise, and then if you go right to park the noise gets louder until the tires stop spinning. it is something to do with parking mechanism, and at first i thought i found the problem, some of the springs that connect the control cable, when i took them off they lost a little bit of there spring and they weren't locking the cable in, so i tightened them up and put it back together and no change. the front cable has an adjustment, but i don't see adjustment for the rear cable, and why should i have to adjust it, i didn't change anything, uggh soooo frustrated. it sounds horrible and loud, the parking mech is trying to engage or isn't disengaging all the way.

 

[nitrojunkie]

I had the exact same thing happen to me. I took the cable back out of the tranny and put it back in paying close attention to what I was doing and making sure the cable seated in the right position the same as the first time. Took the car out and drove it and everything was fine and working as it should. No noises or clicking. I don't really know what I did to correct the problem unless it wasn't seated right the first time. Anyway it never caused any more problems. go figure???? Let me know if you find the cause. Bill

 

[65coronet70dart]

i was hoping that i would be able to figure it out. i just dont understand why i cant get it fixed. nothing has changed, and its weird it only does it after the wheels are spinning for about 30 seconds, once it starts it wont go away. its like the cable slowly lets off and the parking lock mech is trying to engage but it cant because its spinning. soon as you step on the brake the noise goes away, and i can put it in park no problem and it actually locks, the wheels wont spin by hand. there are two springs that are on the control cable, the smaller one connects to cable to rod, and then the bigger spring on the rod holds onto the parking lock lever and so when its in park, only the spring pressure pushes on the park lock to engage it. when you move the shifter out of park, it pulls on the park lock to release the parking mech, when you go from R to N to D to 2 to 1, the cable really doesn’t move much, only when you go from R to P. both cables go into the steering column in the engine compartment which is what the steering column shifter hooks to. and then the other cable going to the gear selector part of the transmission and there is a carousel wheel with holes that you can select for adjustment and i put it back in the same position, and tried one ahead of and one behind and no change, I think this is more for adjusting the throw of gear selectors. What can I do?!!?

 

[PDFROGMAN]

when you pulled the engine did you leave the unit in the car?
is the cable routed the same way and tension on cable will shorten it and pull it out of adjustment.
dont hold me to it but I believe the adjustment is on the column.

I have seen the cable bind from heat being too close to headers
tough to diagnose with out being there
good luck

 

[65coronet70dart]

I pulled the engine and transmission as a assembly to help protect the torque converter. The books says the torque converter cant support its own weight sitting in the input shaft of the transmission and blah blah blah I don’t really understand it but that’s what I did to protect it. Besides I was pulling the engine to be rebuilt, most of the time the transmission has to be pulled anyway. I tried to pull just the transmission out of my dart and got half way into it and ended up having the pull the engine too. My shift cables have heat shields on them to protect them from the stock exhaust manifolds.


Does anyone have an online copy of Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399? I have found bits and pieces of it online just enough to find the areas of adjustment. Im going to order one, but I need it now.



So I got the dreaded park lock noise to stop. What I found on the cable that goes into the housing, how far you push it is actually the adjustment. I thought it goes all the way in and bottom out. So I had to loosen the set bolt and pull the cable out of the housing a little bit and re tighten the set bolt. And that fixed the noise problem!! Yeehaw one problem down…



Now my shifting isnt set right. Even though I didn’t change anything…grrr…



So on the other cable that goes into towards the front of the transmission there is a control cable adjustment, and I found a little bit of literature on adjusting it and I tried it but it’s still not right. N is drive, drive is 2 and 2 is first, and first is first still, and I get no down shifting or kickdown in drive. So I have more adjusting to do, but I tried following the instructions and that didn’t work. Should I just drain and drop the pan and watch the detents down below as someone runs the shift and adjust it until everything is hitting properly. I tried the pull 2 pounds of force while holding the shifter in 1st gear and then rotate the adjustment plate until it contacts the case square and then turn 5 holes counter clock wise or what ever and that made it better but not right.



I found another adjustment in the steering column in the engine compartment where the control cables hook up the shift lever mechanism. And I adjusted it, but didn’t really gain anything.



And now to top it all, I ordered a rear transmission mount a speedocable and they are both wrong. How can I look up the serial number on the tranmission to find out what car it orignally was in? because this tranmission came from like a old dodge van I believe. So when I order parts for a 65 dodge coronet 318 they are wrong…. grrrrrreat

 

[65coronet70dart]

slowly getting better with minor adjustments, waiting for my 727 book to come in.