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Access to instrument panel lights

Gary Spaid

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I am trying to replace instrument panel light bulbs on my 67 GTX. Can a person reach up there to get to the bulbs or does the cluster have to be removed?
Thanks in advance.
 
The thing you'd need to be careful about is damaging circuit boards. I removed cluster when changing dash pad did bulbs then. Think it would be tough on some of them. If no one been in there the turn signal bulb holes will be taped over,factory did that because of fender signal lights.
 
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If no one been in there the turn signal bulb holes will be taped over,factory did that because of fender signal lights.

Mine did have fender mounted signals from the factory but the fenders were replaced at some point or they did not survive the bodywork/paint by the PO.

Possibly they were in the dash before me, but all the bulbs looked very old when I changed them and the signals worked in the dash, not taped over.
 
I am trying to replace instrument panel light bulbs on my 67 GTX. Can a person reach up there to get to the bulbs or does the cluster have to be removed?
Thanks in advance.
Gary if you could post whether or not the holes for turn holes are covered with tape. Since mine is a 66 Satellite maybe they put bulbs 67? 66 Belvedere's didn't have fender turn signals so they had bulbs. Thanks
 
Gary if you could post whether or not the holes for turn holes are covered with tape. Since mine is a 66 Satellite maybe they put bulbs 67? 66 Belvedere's didn't have fender turn signals so they had bulbs. Thanks
If I could send you a photo then obviously I wouldn't be asking if I can get to the bulbs.. I can see no way to reach up in there without possibly damaging stuff I would rather not damage.
 
I just did all my bulbs, swapped to LED. Unless you have child hands, you will likely not get up there to change them. The easiest way is to remove the cluster.
OK, to remove the cluster I removed the screws holding it in and removed the AC/heater control face plate but I get very limited movement, not even an inch. What else needs to be removed to move the cluster out far enough to get to the bulbs?
 
OK, to remove the cluster I removed the screws holding it in and removed the AC/heater control face plate but I get very limited movement, not even an inch. What else needs to be removed to move the cluster out far enough to get to the bulbs?

Disconnect battery. Remove screws. Reach up behind and unscrew speedo cable (my fat hand can get in that far). There's 2 screws behind the face plate to remove holding the heater controls in place. Cluster should come out a bit, wiggle it to get access for hand to remove the connectors from the cluster and the headlight switch. Also need to disconnect ammeter if it is hooked up.

Cluster should now come out.
 
Think you'll need to remove finish panel under steering column an the the 2 bolts to lower column.
 
Think you'll need to remove finish panel under steering column an the the 2 bolts to lower column.

With what I described above, the cluster comes right out. No need to mess with the column. But you may want to protect the steering column area in front of the cluster if you are worried about scrapes.
 
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I am on my 3rd '67 Plymouth. All 3 cars have had dash light issues. As long as you are replacing the bulbs, you might want to lightly sand the copper rings around the bulb sockets to remove 55 years of oxidation. Also, sand the 2 little contacts on each bulb holder. There is a flat metal ground strap that runs along the top of the instrument cluster. That strap grounds the 3 screw locations to the dash. Sand any rust off of that and any oxidation along the dash itself where this ground strap makes contact with the dash. I just ungraded to LED lights; and I highly recommend that upgrade. LEDs are so much brighter than the old tiny little incandescent bulbs. If you do decide to go with LEDs remember, polarity matters with LEDs. If the bulb holders are not orientated correctly to get positive power, they will not work. If that happens, simply rotate the bulb holder 180 degrees and reinstall. Also remember, the dash lights are in series, so each LED will have to have the correct polarity. Once LEDs are installed, bench test the cluster before reinstalling. On the instrument panel, there are 2 locations where the wiring harness plugs in, (one for the left side of the cluster, one for the right). Each location had 5 prongs. The middle prong of each attachment point is where the dash lights get their power from. Run 12 volts to the middle prong on each side of the back of the cluster and run the ground to the aforementioned ground strap. You can also test the turn signal and high beam indicators, but I do not remember which prongs send power to those indicators. If any of the LEDs do not light up, simply remove, rotate 180 degrees and reinstall. Also, light switches are cheap. I replaced my light switch while I had everything apart as well. Have fun.
 
Once I get in there I will use your very detailed and needed advice. Thanks!
 
I am on my 3rd '67 Plymouth. All 3 cars have had dash light issues. As long as you are replacing the bulbs, you might want to lightly sand the copper rings around the bulb sockets to remove 55 years of oxidation. Also, sand the 2 little contacts on each bulb holder. There is a flat metal ground strap that runs along the top of the instrument cluster. That strap grounds the 3 screw locations to the dash. Sand any rust off of that and any oxidation along the dash itself where this ground strap makes contact with the dash. I just ungraded to LED lights; and I highly recommend that upgrade. LEDs are so much brighter than the old tiny little incandescent bulbs. If you do decide to go with LEDs remember, polarity matters with LEDs. If the bulb holders are not orientated correctly to get positive power, they will not work. If that happens, simply rotate the bulb holder 180 degrees and reinstall. Also remember, the dash lights are in series, so each LED will have to have the correct polarity. Once LEDs are installed, bench test the cluster before reinstalling. On the instrument panel, there are 2 locations where the wiring harness plugs in, (one for the left side of the cluster, one for the right). Each location had 5 prongs. The middle prong of each attachment point is where the dash lights get their power from. Run 12 volts to the middle prong on each side of the back of the cluster and run the ground to the aforementioned ground strap. You can also test the turn signal and high beam indicators, but I do not remember which prongs send power to those indicators. If any of the LEDs do not light up, simply remove, rotate 180 degrees and reinstall. Also, light switches are cheap. I replaced my light switch while I had everything apart as well. Have fun.

^^This. The LED upgrade just brings the old dash to life, especially at night. I bought my LED's from Amazon, think it was $8 for the pack, and they work perfectly.

IMG_1984 Large.png
 
Gary if you could post whether or not the holes for turn holes are covered with tape. Since mine is a 66 Satellite maybe they put bulbs 67? 66 Belvedere's didn't have fender turn signals so they had bulbs. Thanks
When I get the cluster out I will take photos so you can see about the tape.
 
OK, I replaced two of my instrument bulbs, did some wiring repairs and found that I have instrument lights! But only in one sweet spot when turning the know so I think a new headlight switch will give me full control.
Now only lights that don't work are the tach light and the console shift indicator light so I am pretty sure I can get those going soon. Many thanks to all your advice and suggestions.
 
^^This. The LED upgrade just brings the old dash to life, especially at night. I bought my LED's from Amazon, think it was $8 for the pack, and they work perfectly.

View attachment 1520406

I also did the LED Dash Light Upgrade, what a huge difference !!
It was a frustrating task, but I took my time with a few beers, figured it out and it was well worth it.
Perfect dash lights now.
Got the bulbs from Amazon, pretty cheap upgrade.
I switched the flasher module to an LED compatible unit, and I have no problems with blinkers or E-Flasher, Amazon too for that unit.
Good luck.
 
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