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Adding a circuit

Dakar Timm

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I'm in the begining phase of adding an aftermarket under dash stereo . Preferably I would like to tap into the fuse block . I'd really like a clean factory look .
Is there add on fuse assembly one could purchase ? I'm not of opinion that it is ok to cut into the factory wiring .
I looked here and found nothing relates to my question .
The second part ,the factory kick panels are original . There are aftermarket kick panels that have provisions for adding speakers .
Any one here have experiance with them ?
Thank you
 
Is it your intention to hide the head unit and keep the OEM radio? Do you intend on having both systems functional? Crutchfield supplies plug and play wiring for stereos.
Mike
 
Instead of cutting up kick panels, another option is to mount 2 - 3.5" round speakers where the factory 4x10 dash speakers already is.
 
If you don't want to alter the factory kick panels, just get a pair of repops. Cut a circle in it for the speakers. We did this a gazillion times back in the day. Pair of 6x9 Jensens on the rear shelf ( actually in my car today ).
 
I'm in the begining phase of adding an aftermarket under dash stereo . Preferably I would like to tap into the fuse block . I'd really like a clean factory look .
Is there add on fuse assembly one could purchase ? I'm not of opinion that it is ok to cut into the factory wiring .
I looked here and found nothing relates to my question .
The second part ,the factory kick panels are original . There are aftermarket kick panels that have provisions for adding speakers .
Any one here have experiance with them ?
Thank you
1. Made me look - I’m only seein A-body kick panels for speakers, not B-bodies
2. I’m adding A LOT of electrical stuff the “correct” way this year. I’m installing relays with direct battery power & tapping into (no wire cutting) the fuse block for a on/off signal
 
1. Made me look - I’m only seein A-body kick panels for speakers, not B-bodies
2. I’m adding A LOT of electrical stuff the “correct” way this year. I’m installing relays with direct battery power & tapping into (no wire cutting) the fuse block for a on/off signal
I did the second one, one relay to get power from the battery to a small aftermarket fuse block. Relay gets the switching signal from the stock fuse block. So far its overkill because I only added some analog gauges, but it gives me room if I add EFI or something down the road, and I set it up so its easily removable with no hackery to the car or stock wiring.
 
One Wheel Peel ,where on the factory fuse block did you get power ?
I found an enclosure for a retro looking stereo that has blue tooth . It looks like it belongs .
My feeling is the '66 made it almost 60 years without being cut up or modified ,who am I to change it ?
I'd like to hide the speakers as much as possible
 
One Wheel Peel ,where on the factory fuse block did you get power ?
I found an enclosure for a retro looking stereo that has blue tooth . It looks like it belongs .
My feeling is the '66 made it almost 60 years without being cut up or modified ,who am I to change it ?
I'd like to hide the speakers as much as possible
I think it was the original radio circuit but I'm not sure. All I did was look behind the fuse box, I found a male spade connector behind one of the fuses and checked if it had power in key on or acc, it did, and used it. Its like they saw me coming 56 years ago.
 
If you want an underdash stereo system, is not anymore a “factory look” so your wish is indeed contradictory.
 
2. I’m adding A LOT of electrical stuff the “correct” way this year. I’m installing relays with direct battery power & tapping into (no wire cutting) the fuse block for a on/off signal

With ammeter, the battery source is not a correct place to get the power, but alt post or anywhere into the line between amm and alt post.
 
With ammeter, the battery source is not a correct place to get the power, but alt post or anywhere into the line between amm and alt post.
Thanks! Follow up question - I did a basic ammeter bypass years ago (100A in-line fuse from alternator I believe ?), so my ammeter doesn’t “really” work anymore. Should I still tap into the alternator???
 
Factory can be expensive, which is why I went period correct with an aftermarket FM/AM/CB from the 70s in the stock location.
Of course right after that I found an affordable factory AM radio :rolleyes:
 
Thanks! Follow up question - I did a basic ammeter bypass years ago (100A in-line fuse from alternator I believe ?), so my ammeter doesn’t “really” work anymore. Should I still tap into the alternator???
Direct alternator to battery by-pass, or “shunt wire” by-pass? Better hope you never experience a short in any of the stock un-fused wiring, things will burn. By-passes the stock designed circuit protection (fusible link) as well.
 
Direct alternator to battery by-pass, or “shunt wire” by-pass? Better hope you never experience a short in any of the stock un-fused wiring, things will burn. By-passes the stock designed circuit protection (fusible link) as well.
I’m not sure. I’ll have to look. It’s been that way 10 yrs or more. Why is a “shunt”? (I’m not an electrical whiz)
 
A period correct similar to this?

IMG_0389.jpeg


Wouldn’t be bad, althought that’s more 80s than 60/70s LOL


Don’t worry I was joking, I got your idea.

IMHO, I’d preffer to keep the stock location with a vintage look stereo system. But at each own :thumbsup:
 
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