advice, input and some pictures would be awesome

[Hemi Rebel]

I have aquired most of the sheetmetal I need for my 68 charger project. The plan is to back half the car and i want to do it in a way that retains the trunk floors as much as possible. I would like to use ladder bars, but the shape of the frame rails for that set up doesnt seem like it would follow the contour of the floor as well as the 4 link rails. The car will see track duty as well as street. Just looking for ideas and opinions and if anyone has pictures of theirs that would be great. This is my first time doing a car like this. I have some experienced people working with me on it, but not necessarily experienced in doing it to mopars.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I thought pro street was dead. I trust you'll do a really good job on it. It'd be real easy to F up a perfectly good Charger and make it look like everything else that's been done.

 

[Cranky]

Had a 68 roadrunner with ladders and retained the stock floors throughout. Only sheet metal work done was mini tubs. Also did a 72 Challenger that way but we did slot the floor under the seat area for clearance for the bars since the car was so low. The RR wasn't all that low but it wasn't much above stock height.

 

[benno440]

any reason why ladder bars man?
i have been reading about the different setups as i have been trying to tune my parallel 4 link and everyone says ladder bars are the past and not very adjustable.
what about a parallel or triangulated 4 link?
if your set on it thats cool, there is a few companies that do the ladder bars for that car without removing flooring, i think mafgnumforce do one.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I thought pro street was dead. I trust you'll do a really good job on it. It'd be real easy to F up a perfectly good Charger and make it look like everything else that's been done.

Rusty,pro street,restomod,autocross or hot street will never die.There's plenty of 8 second pro streeters still running around.A man's gotta do what a man gotta do:angel3:

 

[Hemi Rebel]

any reason why ladder bars man?
i have been reading about the different setups as i have been trying to tune my parallel 4 link and everyone says ladder bars are the past and not very adjustable.
what about a parallel or triangulated 4 link?
if your set on it thats cool, there is a few companies that do the ladder bars for that car without removing flooring, i think mafgnumforce do one.

well, apparently 4 links are out dated too. Hahaha. I wanted to go the ladder bar route because i didnt really see the need for all the adjustment for my particular needs. But, the more i am reading, maybe the 4 link would be better. S&W has B body frame rails that will allow me to keep the trunk floors.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I wasn't trying to say it was a bad idea.....or even out dated. It's just that Lord knows the pro street thing has been done to death. It would be real easy to make it look the status quo in that catagory is all I meant. Does that make sense?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I've seen lotso pro streeters.I dig when they do something to set itself apart and stand out in the crowd:headbang:

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well yours just rocks. That's all there is too it.



Showoff.


LOL

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Well yours just rocks. That's all there is too it.



Showoff.


LOL

Nah,it's all I got:laughing6:

 

[Hemi Rebel]

It's been done to death, sure, but for what purpose? I actually plan on racing my junk. I see a lot of cars at various local shows, but somehow they never seem to make it to the track. I hope that qualifies me for breaking away from the norm. Not really trying to be original or anything, I just want a car that hooks that doesn't require s a Ph.D to adjust. The front end will be relatively light and I don't want to have a wheel stand competition, and it seems the ladder bars are better suited to lift the front end and transfer weight to the tires. The main goal would be to keep the car as original in appearance as can be, yet function like it is meant too.

 

[67 coronet]

magnum force racing makes a bolt in 4 link that would be at least worth looking at for ideas.there stuff is good quality,but over priced.how about a cal tracs type set up that goes under the springs?no need to modify the floor with that setup.i have seen 9 sec cars with that setup,so i know it works.

 

[benno440]

yeh MF is the one i have in mine it is not exactly bolt in, you have to weld in pipe through the frame to strengthen the bolt holes for the brackets and you have to weld all the brakets for bars and shocks to the diff, its pretty easy though and looks good.
if i could go back i would of gone the RMS 4 link as it was much less wleding and you can put the pipes out the back the MF you cant get pipes past diff without some crazy design.
lots of companies are making nice rearends.
ridetech
RMS
Magnumforce - do ladder bars and 4 links, all chromoly drag racing strength
art morrison- but this is very expensive

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hemi rebel what are you looking at that will require you to cut the floor or frame?
most o fthe stuff i mentioned your car remains stock besides the actual suspension components

sorry just reread your OP that your going to backhalf the car, in that case a triangulated 4 link would be a sweet way to go instead of a parallel

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

It's been done to death, sure, but for what purpose? I actually plan on racing my junk. I see a lot of cars at various local shows, but somehow they never seem to make it to the track. I hope that qualifies me for breaking away from the norm. Not really trying to be original or anything, I just want a car that hooks that doesn't require s a Ph.D to adjust. The front end will be relatively light and I don't want to have a wheel stand competition, and it seems the ladder bars are better suited to lift the front end and transfer weight to the tires. The main goal would be to keep the car as original in appearance as can be, yet function like it is meant too.

Rebel,how fast do you intend to go??Is your car mostly street driven and taken to the track a few times a year?What power level is your goal??

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Rebel,how fast do you intend to go??Is your car mostly street driven and taken to the track a few times a year?What power level is your goal??

Aluminum HEMI block and heads. 8-71 bds blower(this is why I say the front end will be relatively light). According to the conversation I had with bds, the car should make around 900 hp. I do plan to drive the car on the street, but i really want it to perform well. I want to race it. Nothing crazy, just locally. I dont plan on travelling all over the country going from track to track.

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I came across this. they have a 4 link kit and a 4 bar kit which is basically a 4 link without the adjustment capability.
http://www.checkeredracing.com/4Link4Bar.html. was thinking of using this with the b body frame rails from s&w.

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The magnum force pro link setup looks like it attaches to the factory frame. Im gonna need some tire under this thing so the frame is gonna have to move a bit.

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"Rebel,how fast do you intend to go??" silly question innit? as fast as I can go I guess.

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[video=youtube_share;yUCUhaq0PlM]http://youtu.be/yUCUhaq0PlM[/video]

 

[benno440]

315 tyre not big enough? i think you can go bigger if mini tubbed with factory suspension.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Did you see a leaf spring b body with cal tracks do well? I am not a racer but want to eventually and was considering cal tracks myself until someone recommended not to, saying specifically that they don't do too well on a 68 satellite. Not sure why he would say that...

magnum force racing makes a bolt in 4 link that would be at least worth looking at for ideas.there stuff is good quality,but over priced.how about a cal tracs type set up that goes under the springs?no need to modify the floor with that setup.i have seen 9 sec cars with that setup,so i know it works.

 

[benno440]

i have heard on some hard launches they can cause binding somehow. maybe some research would do well

 

[67 coronet]

Did you see a leaf spring b body with cal tracks do well? I am not a racer but want to eventually and was considering cal tracks myself until someone recommended not to, saying specifically that they don't do too well on a 68 satellite. Not sure why he would say that...

yes,i have seen plenty of 68-70 b bodys do great with caltracks or similar setups.if you plan on going faster then 9.99 on a regular basis,then a good high end set up from art morrison or some other adjustable 4 link would be in order.ladder bars work good,but the lack of adjustability can cause issues when you start to put down some real hp.my current race car(69 camero)has ladders and mono leafs.building a new roller small block and may end up needing to change the rear susp.i will see,but prob not till next season.(too many damm projects at one time)

 

[rocky61201]

You might want to check out this link and build being done on this 69 Charger. I might give you some ideas from the 4 link they're putting in. Lots of detailed pics. Good stuff.

http://www.detroitspeed.com/projects/Moe69charger/moe69charger-pg1.html