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Aero Wheels on 69 Charger

Tyron68

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I recently purchased a set of rear 15x10 Aero wheels for my 69 (on budget and size/BS was correct). I did quite a bit of research as these were non DOT wheels that are not hub centric but everything showed me these should work. What’s throwing me off is the wheel stud opening is 5/8”, larger than my factory wheel studs. Using common sense, when the 45 degree lug nuts are fully tighten it centers it. I’d like to get some opinions on this as my brain can’t seem to accept that it is ok to have a larger hub opening and stud opening.
 
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I recently purchased a set of rear 15x10 Aero wheels for my 69 (on budget and size/BS was correct). I did quite a bit of research as these were non DOT wheels that are not hub centric but everything showed me these should work. What’s throwing me off is the wheel stud opening is 5/8”, larger than my factory wheel studs. Using common sense, when the 45 degree lug nuts are fully tighten it centers it. I’d like to get some opinions on this as my brain can’t seem to accept that it is ok to have a larger hub opening and stud opening.
Where’s The Pics??????
 
Where’s The Pics??????
IMG_5443.jpeg


IMG_5444.jpeg
 
I recently purchased a set of rear 15x10 Aero wheels for my 69 (on budget and size/BS was correct). I did quite a bit of research as these were non DOT wheels that are not hub centric but everything showed me these should work. What’s throwing me off is the wheel stud opening is 5/8”, larger than my factory wheel studs. Using common sense, when the 45 degree lug nuts are fully tighten it centers it. I’d like to get some opinions on this as my brain can’t seem to accept that it is ok to have a larger hub opening and stud opening.

Many rules for oval track racing require upgrading your car to larger lug studs > that's why these non-DOT wheels are made this way. You can always drill out your rotors/drums for 5/8" studs like we all used to do when running hobby stock cars. Personally, I could not make myself run wheels with 5/8" lug holes on 1/2" studs, but..... considering that the wheels are lug centric and you used the correct lug nuts, it's probably ok on a street car. As you have concluded, its the lugs and not the studs that transmit the forces between the wheel and hub/axle.

As far as using wheels that are not hub centric (like these), consider that most aftermarket wheels are lug centric and not hub centric and that racers and people in general have put billions of miles on them over the decades. Yes, I agree in principal that hub-centric wheels are better, but I would only start to get concerned if I was racing oval, road, autocross, or doing a lot of spirited driving.

I also run black Aero's on my 69 Charger, albeit mine are DOT 8-inchers. They are a good looking, inexpensive, durable, light wheel.
 
I wanted Bassett or Aero wheels at one time, but I still have LH threads. Could not find 45 degree LH lug nuts, so I used Cragar steel wheels. They are heavy but served me well.
 
I wanted Bassett or Aero wheels at one time, but I still have LH threads. Could not find 45 degree LH lug nuts, so I used Cragar steel wheels. They are heavy but served me well.

I could not find LH 45 lugs either. Those days are gone. It was well worth it IMO to change the LH studs to RH in order to run the lighter wheels.
 
I could not find LH 45 lugs either. Those days are gone. It was well worth it IMO to change the LH studs to RH in order to run the lighter wheels.
If it matters I changed out the LH threads and it was easier than I expected. Not hard at all. I just knew if I didn’t, eventually I’d snap them off because I’d forget…..
 
I could not find LH 45 lugs either. Those days are gone. It was well worth it IMO to change the LH studs to RH in order to run the lighter wheels.
Definitely worth the change…..
 
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