Aftermarket Iron 440 Blocks

[Mike Gaines]

The "panda bear eating popcorn" pic is because I am actively planning a stroker build.
If I forego nitrous, my HP and Torque goals are in the 6XX range, and I believe that a girdled properly setup Chrysler block would be fine. If I want to add nitrous, I would want an aftermarket block. I probably only have one shot to do this, would prefer to only build this motor once, 6XX HP and TQ may be all that I can handle, but....
So I am attentively following this aftermarket/or not 440 block search as well. Thanks to all who reply.

I have a stock 440 block, all machined, of course.
I have a 440 source steel billet girdle and 440 source steel billet main caps. Ohio Crankshaft Crank, H-Beams Rods and SRP Forged 12.2-1 Pistons.
When I originally built the motor it only made 602HP on the engine dyno. I have made significant power upgrades since then, but did NOT put it back on the dyno.
My motor must make about 740HP to get my 3800lb Coronet to my personal best ET and MPH just this last weekend of 10.170 @ 131.50. (According to Wallace Computer Website, which is pretty darn accurate.)
I am always told that if one goes OVER 750HP you are looking for trouble even with the upgrades that I have.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I have a stock 440 block, all machined, of course.
I have a 440 source steel billet girdle and 440 source steel billet main caps. Ohio Crankshaft Crank, H-Beams Rods and SRP Forged 12.2-1 Pistons.
When I originally built the motor it only made 602HP on the engine dyno. I have made significant power upgrades since then, but did NOT put it back on the dyno.
My motor must make about 740HP to get my 3800lb Coronet to my personal best ET and MPH just this last weekend of 10.170 @ 131.50. (According to Wallace Computer Website, which is pretty darn accurate.)
I am always told that if one goes OVER 750HP you are looking for trouble even with the upgrades that I have.

Thanks Mike. I don't have any experience or butt time in the seat of a 6XX HP/TQ car. For all I know, harnessing the power and making the most of it may be all of the challenge I could want or be able to handle, mentally, physically, and financially. OTOH, I know what it's like to get a killer car stereo, and for the first 4 or 5 months think I'd never find the volume limit, but then you get used to it and there's this one song and bam! there it is and I want more. Same goes for my car. Believe me, my "to do" list is long. Suspension, paint, rust abatement, installation of the Dakota Digital dash I've owned for over a year, modding the Holley 6bbl carbs, bucket seats, front suspension, completing my N96 air grabber...and on and on.
I'm SURE I will be thrilled with a stroker, but once I've got "a handle" on it, which may take a year or two depending on how often I will go to the track, when I am getting "the most" out of it, and then one of my buddies beats me by a car length, or I lose a pick up or grudge race, or it becomes "normal" to run 11s, then what? I'm thinking I'd like the motor to be built, within reason, to handle a 150 or 200 shot of nitrous??
The power level my goal put me at is especially critical. If 6XX HP and TQ is all I could want or handle, I am good to go with a Chrysler block. If that power level and fun gets "old" then I'd have to start all over again with an aftermarket block, etc. unless I begin with an aftermarket block from the get go, and parts that will handle the extra power and stress of nitrous.

 

[moparcrazy]

Found this Mega Block on CL asking $3900.00 all machine work done.
https://altoona.craigslist.org/pts/d/mopar-rb-mega-block/6361654233.html
https://altoona.craigslist.org/pts/d/mopar-parts/6352562171.html

 

[HOTMOPR]

In for info..

 

[not so famous bob]

In for info..

I`d like to have an alum. r/b myself. too much dineero for me now. A buddy of mine that runs a low 9 second vega, found an alum. sbc w/ all the machine work done, ready to be built for a $1000 , he`s wanting to go 8`s. ---JEALOUS !------

 

[Wookie316]

Can a guy even get an aftermarket block these days?
I’d love to get my hands on a low deck block.

 

[biomedtechguy]

This raises a couple of questions.
As advanced as Mopar engineering is and has been (HEMI, rocker shafts, torsion bars, Max Wedge ports, etc.) why didn't they use 4 bolt mains on HP 340s and 440s ??
Why has Mopar Performance stopped making 4 bolt blocks?
Y'all know I'm behind the curve in this forum, so your knowledge is appreciated.

 

[Budnicks]

This raises a couple of questions.
As advanced as Mopar engineering is and has been (HEMI, rocker shafts, torsion bars, Max Wedge ports, etc.) why didn't they use 4 bolt mains on HP 340s and 440s ??
Why has Mopar Performance stopped making 4 bolt blocks?
Y'all know I'm behind the curve in this forum, so your knowledge is appreciated.

The penny pinchers/accountants run the show, have the last say...
It's all about saving another nickel, when it comes to production costs
to the chagrin/detriment from/of all the engineering & design staffs...

I'm sure they'd have liked the 340 & BB wedge bocks
all to have a bottom end like the Hemi's did...

They are pretty damn stout for a 2 bolt main, fully skirted block...

People that buy these aftermarket bocks especially for Mopars
OE restoration, street/strip or full on race,
are a mere fraction of the GM or even Ford aftermarkets parts supplies...
Maybe on the high-side of 10% of the market...
Economics 101, screw the minority/Mopars...

It's all about supply & demand,
or cheapskates/price point shoppers,
{I'm really sorry to say; but it sort of goes hand & hand with Mopars, everyone wants a fortune
for their rusted out worn out used dilapidated old Mopar parts, especially performance stuff,
but than they won't/don't want to pay for the price to get a great quality part, sort of vicious circles}
not enough profit to make them in huge quantities, risk reward,
you'd think it would be...
But usually they'd have to sit on a shitload for a long time...
A lot of people say they'd buy but until they open their wallets
"it's all talk", been like this forever...
It's really only in the past decade, to even have enough interest,
for a select few produce them in limited #'s so they can ask
a ransom for the product & still make their 100%-1000%+ profit margins...
Mopars are "or were" going up in huge value, ride that wave,
some lose out, it doesn't last, it never has/does...

I'm sure some can be attributed to greed too I'm sure...
They are in business to make profit...

As Joe Dirt would probably say;
when "Unicef" gets in the Mopar Aftermarket block business,
they will be a dime a dozen, like Cheby's....

 

[biomedtechguy]

I figured the lack of 4 bolt mains from the factory back in the day was the pencil necked bean counters.

They are pretty damn stout for a 2 bolt main, fully skirted block...

Can you elaborate on "fully skirted block"?
I was very happy to see my wife's 421 was a factory 4 bolt main motor. "ArmaSteel" crank was a fancy name for a cast iron crankshaft though, and that's what went back in her motor because "she didn't want a stroker motor". If the budget wasn't an "issue" I would have built her 421 as a stroker anyway, she never would have known, but it's stout with all the right parts in all the right places. I calculated piston speed on the rebuilt 421 and set her rev limiter so I don't have to worry, but high enough to make use of the build and the roller cam. 421s can wind up pretty high, but the bore to stroke ratio on my stock 440 is actually more conducive to higher RPMs.

 

[Budnicks]

I'll try to elaborate later or tomorrow
if someone else doesn't/didn't already...

I'm just now logging off have to feed dad & Elvis...

 

[HOTMOPR]

I am assuming he means the block skirts protruded well beyond the main caps and are not webbed directly to the pan rail. So to speak.

 

[Budnicks]

Yes a fully skirted block has the block sides
cover the full crankshaft throws etc. goes down the sides like
4"+'s the hem incorporated the side bolts for the caps into them...
The pan rails are far lower than like a
Small Block Mopars BBC SBC/GM, Pontiac, Chevy, Ford etc.
where the bottom of the block & oil pan rails are on a common line
with the center of the crankshaft & main caps are exposed
where as a BB Mopar Hemi & BB Wedge B-RB skirted block
has the crankshaft recessed inside the skirted areas
{hemi's are machined & use it for the added/extra side bolts for the mains}
the oil pan just basically covers the bottom of the block & windage-tray
not the throws of the crankshaft...
If that makes any sense...

Blueprint GM BBC

Aftermarket BMP Alum 10.750 deck height Mopar Wedge

 

[biomedtechguy]

where as a BB Mopar Hemi & BB Wedge B-RB skirted block
has the crankshaft recessed inside the skirted areas

I believe that in yellow I outlined one skirt and dotted some of the others. I can see how that would add strength.

So I don't have anything to compare the strength of a RB block to a Chebby or a Ford "old school" era blocks. Any ideas?

 

[dvw]

I believe that in yellow I outlined one skirt and dotted some of the others. I can see how that would add strength.View attachment 543184

So I don't have anything to compare the strength of a RB block to a Chebby or a Ford "old school" era blocks. Any ideas?

Look at the previous photo. The weak area is between the cam tunnel and the top of the main.
Doug

 

[Schober Motorsports]

Hey guys,

Wanted to do an update. I haven't been able to find a single new iron aftermarket block available as of 28 Nov 17. I called MOPAR PERFORMANCE direct without any results, all discontinued part numbers. They did mention that they were shifting distributors, but had no available date to mention of as far as when/if they would be put back into circulation. I called my local dealership who show a few in stock at a few dealers in the country, all of which are accounted for or the owner of the dealership already called "dibs". Like I said in my earlier posts, Bill from Chicago Connection is currently trying to get a cast iron block past quality control so he can start getting them on the market again. Koleno and Koffel's Place have nothing. Nothing from Bill Mitchell Racing Products. Nothing from Indy. When I called Ray Barton he told me that they haven't seen one is about 2 years. No answer from Bulldog Performance, but I was careful not to go too deep into that one... (Look up Aftermarket Buick Blocks concerning Bulldog Performance... Bad news...) So right now as far as BRAND NEW Iron is concerned, I see nothing available. Only thing I see is aluminum blocks from Indy, Bill Mitchell, Keith Black (Ray Barton owns them now), and Southeast Performance is currently working on getting his own aluminum block up and out into the market place.

I wanted to pass along this information to you guys as I've done the research and made about a SOLID 25-30 phone calls to see what exactly was out there... I will say of the people I talked to, they were extremely helpful and happy to talk to me. For that I thank all of you. The MOPAR community is second to none, and that's why I like to call it home.

-Craig

 

[moparcrazy]

Hey guys,

Wanted to do an update. I haven't been able to find a single new iron aftermarket block available as of 28 Nov 17. I called MOPAR PERFORMANCE direct without any results, all discontinued part numbers. They did mention that they were shifting distributors, but had no available date to mention of as far as when/if they would be put back into circulation. I called my local dealership who show a few in stock at a few dealers in the country, all of which are accounted for or the owner of the dealership already called "dibs". Like I said in my earlier posts, Bill from Chicago Connection is currently trying to get a cast iron block past quality control so he can start getting them on the market again. Koleno and Koffel's Place have nothing. Nothing from Bill Mitchell Racing Products. Nothing from Indy. When I called Ray Barton he told me that they haven't seen one is about 2 years. No answer from Bulldog Performance, but I was careful not to go too deep into that one... (Look up Aftermarket Buick Blocks concerning Bulldog Performance... Bad news...) So right now as far as BRAND NEW Iron is concerned, I see nothing available. Only thing I see is aluminum blocks from Indy, Bill Mitchell, Keith Black (Ray Barton owns them now), and Southeast Performance is currently working on getting his own aluminum block up and out into the market place.

I wanted to pass along this information to you guys as I've done the research and made about a SOLID 25-30 phone calls to see what exactly was out there... I will say of the people I talked to, they were extremely helpful and happy to talk to me. For that I thank all of you. The MOPAR community is second to none, and that's why I like to call it home.

-Craig

Did you see the one on CL i posted ?

 

[Hemirunner]

What about HP Performance?

 

[Schober Motorsports]

Did you see the one on CL i posted ?

I did, but I don't want to pay $3,900 for a used block, seems crazy to me!

What about HP Performance?

I didn't call them, mostly saw Hemi stuff on their website.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I did, but I don't want to pay $3,900 for a used block, seems crazy to me!



I didn't call them, mostly saw Hemi stuff on their website.

$3900 for a block right NOW is not UNreasonable!
HEMI block is almost the same price
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[biomedtechguy]

What about HP Performance?

I'm waiting for HP Performance in N.C. to call me back, or I'll call them back. They have aftermarket blocks???
I left a voicemail with Muscle Motors today and they called me back. They were one of 3 builders I had narrowed my choices down to do my stroker build. They said appx 8 weeks for The Block IIRC. I've hemmed and hawed over stock vs aftermarket RB block for my build. I am going to use a performance aftermarket block as long as I can find a really good one for my street strip build. That way if I add nitrous one day the motor/block has "headroom" to go from 6XX HP and TQ all motor up a hundred or two with the addition of nitrous. If I never add power, for me, it is worth the investment for peace of mind. Do it once, do it right, no regrets.
What about an aluminum block for street 80% strip 20%??? I've read they have bore out of round/flex/piston skirt thrust side rubbing or wall thickness issues when punched out to 4.5 bore??
Still watching this thread CLOSELY! Thanks!