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Air Cleaner to Hood Clearance whats your trick?

Moparfiend

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Running a 318 with a new 4brl Street Demon with a 1/2 inch spacer set up. The hood is a the stock flat Satellite hood. I want to run a 2 inch oval air cleaner but they don’t make any in a drop base.

You guys are smart so my question is what is your trick in determining the hood clearance to carb ring when the hood is closed??
Thanks for your hints and tricks on this!!!
 
Play dough is good. Or use a straight edge across you fender wells and take a measurement to the top of the carb. Then use the straight edge across the inside of your hood, measure to the center. Then do the math.

Not good at math? Use a cell phone with video
 
I have a 70 satellite with a 360 and a Mopar m1 single plane intake. I am running the Mopar Performance aluminum air cleaner with a Mancini Racing drop base and it barely fits. The flat Satellite hood doesn't leave much room to run a tall intake. Without the drop base, it was about 1/2 inch too tall. Play dough works good and washes off.
 
I use aluminum foil or parchment paper\wax paper on each side of the dough so there's no mess to clean up.
 
Brilliant play dough for Christmas lol I will ask Santa! Oh crap I was not very good this year maybe I will get coal again will coal work?
 
Well, you can:
a) remove the 1/2" spacer
b) find a shorter intake
c)pick a different air cleaner
d) modify the base of the air cleaner you like by cutting up a drop-base air cleaner base, cutting up the base of the air cleaner you like & attaching the two pieces together (tack weld, pop-rivets, epoxy or ?) to make your own drop base.
e) put on a Roadrunner hood with the "power bulge" in the middle
f) cut a hole in your hood (& add a scoop)
 
Well, you can:
a) remove the 1/2" spacer
b) find a shorter intake
c)pick a different air cleaner
d) modify the base of the air cleaner you like by cutting up a drop-base air cleaner base, cutting up the base of the air cleaner you like & attaching the two pieces together (tack weld, pop-rivets, epoxy or ?) to make your own drop base.
e) put on a Roadrunner hood with the "power bulge" in the middle
f) cut a hole in your hood (& add a scoop)
Or option g) run with no hood

I would love to fabricate an airgrabber actualy but cutting sheet metal would be difficult without the right tools....
 
Well, you can:
f) cut a hole in your hood (& add a scoop)
winner lol

22.jpg
 
Or option g) run with no hood

I would love to fabricate an airgrabber actualy but cutting sheet metal would be difficult without the right tools....

They now sell reproduction air grabber hoods, but not cheap & there's a lot that goes with the hood to make them work. I've run without a hood before and it works fine as long as it doesn't rain. Water won't hurt the motor, but it's bad for the ignition system.

I think scoops can be pop riveted, glued, smoothed in with fiberglass resin or welded if metal. FYI they do sell fiberglass 70 roadrunner hoods too.
 
They now sell reproduction air grabber hoods, but not cheap & there's a lot that goes with the hood to make them work. I've run without a hood before and it works fine as long as it doesn't rain. Water won't hurt the motor, but it's bad for the ignition system.

I think scoops can be pop riveted, glued, smoothed in with fiberglass resin or welded if metal. FYI they do sell fiberglass 70 roadrunner hoods too.
I saw thise hoode like >$600-700 pretty steep. I wonder if they make an electromechanical actuator like a simple servo instread of vacuum that could be manually controled?
 
That looks great MTUCJ what scoop is that and how did you attach?
It was a used $20 piece I found at a swap meet - not sure of the brand. It has threaded rod in about 8 places to bolt it to the hood.
 
I saw thise hoode like >$600-700 pretty steep. I wonder if they make an electromechanical actuator like a simple servo instread of vacuum that could be manually controled?

You'd have to build that, BUT I used to open mine with just a hardware store spring. I had to open the hood every time I wanted to open/close the scoop, but it was cheap.
 
Or you could run up to 1" K Frame spacers to lower the engine in the chassis. I have never done it on my cars but helped others & done it on their cars with no issues.
 
Or you could run up to 1" K Frame spacers to lower the engine in the chassis. I have never done it on my cars but helped others & done it on their cars with no issues.
Thanks! Interesting probably won’t go to that extent but I will look into it after I see how much roon I have using plado. Going to get some now actually.
 
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