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Air grabber/intake manifold question on 69 GTX 440

Rev. Mopar

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Have acquired a 1969 Road Runner with the air grabber hood but NONE of the hardware. Question is this: Since I will be using a good 69 440 can an aluminum intake, like a Holley or Edelbrock be used with the complete workings of the air box or are they too tall? I put GTX in the heading as the GTX was a 440 car....

Are these things cable operated? Vacuum operated? Or electrically operated? I am a drag racer and not accustomed to the nuances of using these parts in a restification.
 
All 69 hoods were air grabber hoods. The actual air intake components were part of a package. 69 was cable operated. With a higher intake it most likely will not all fit correctly anymore.
 
The only aftermarket manifold that will fit 100% is the old Edlebrock CH4B for 440 or the DP4B for 383s
 
These guys are correct. You only have a little less than 1/2” “extra” hood clearance” with an air grabber setup. You pretty much need a stock intake or the two mentioned aftermarket intakes. Since your “airgrabber” hood is just a regular hood AND because you race, you might consider a ‘69 “six pack” hood….lighter, fewer hood clearance issues
 
The reason so many cars have aftermarket hoods with a scoop, and the reason the A12 style scoop is so popular on non-A12 cars is because the stock air grabber hood doesn't allow any variance. It's not much fun to lack the room to experiment.

One good intake seemingly well known to fit on a 440 with air grabber *without doing anything out of the ordinary is an edelbrock 6 pack with the discontinued MP air cleaner setup which Mancini wisely resurrected and made available again. Is it the best one for your combination....whole other topic....

*out of the ordinary-things like spacing the entire K member down and dealing with/correcting the issues caused by it
 
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I am not planning to race this car but do want it to be strong. I have never been fully convinced that the air grabber system on the GTX/Road Runner were really all that effective though. Look cool. The parts to put this on are prohtively expensive too. The only parts left on the RR are the open screens, the rest would be hip pocket national bank.
 
These guys are correct. You only have a little less than 1/2” “extra” hood clearance” with an air grabber.
Just to confirm....a '69 440 Plymouth with the air grabber set up will have less than 1/2" space between the air cleaner lid and the hood? I'm asking because I'm installing the air grabber back onto my car and was surprised at how little space there is compared to other air cleaners.
 
I am not planning to race this car but do want it to be strong. I have never been fully convinced that the air grabber system on the GTX/Road Runner were really all that effective though. Look cool. The parts to put this on are prohtively expensive too. The only parts left on the RR are the open screens, the rest would be hip pocket national bank.

Given the comment about expense, I'd suggest just run the open screens and no ducting underneath.
This will free you up to run a good street/strip intake (rpm, street dominator, torker II, TM7, etc) and an aftermarket 14" drop base air cleaner.

As someone who has run multiple combinations on that platform I can confidently say
the open screens alone are quite effective at letting heat out of the engine bay and are still very worthwhile without all the plastic ductwork underneath.
 
Just to confirm....a '69 440 Plymouth with the air grabber set up will have less than 1/2" space between the air cleaner lid and the hood? I'm asking because I'm installing the air grabber back onto my car and was surprised at how little space there is compared to other air cleaners.
Correct
 
Thanks for the information regarding the open screens. Letting excess heat out is important too.
 
I have a CH4B and it is really tight. I'm not even sure I will be able to use it once I install the air grabber plastic.
 
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