Alternative carbs and linkage for max wedge?

[EARLY B]

Yes I knew there was a clearance problem but I thought that even if I cut them that the carbs would not hook up to the MW linkage without the replacement linkage, but I have not been able to find that linkage from Dvorak anywhere.
Do you know where I can find a link to it? Thanks

What Dvorak sells is the arm on the carb, It is only needed if you are racing??? It is not needed to make the carbs work on your car. The rest of the linkage is the same. Don't waste your time and money searching for the arms.

 

[fmahannah]

What Dvorak sells is the arm on the carb, It is only needed if you are racing??? It is not needed to make the carbs work on your car. The rest of the linkage is the same. Don't waste your time and money searching for the arms.

I had read there was some issue with not being able to get full throttle using the edelbrock arm, something about the angle?

If I can just cut the arms for clearance and have the wedge linkages hook up and work that would be great and a lot cheaper.

 

[ruffcut]

You won't have an issue with attaining WOT. Mine work just fine. ruffcut

 

[fmahannah]

You won't have an issue with attaining WOT. Mine work just fine. ruffcut

OK Thanks!

 

[fmahannah]

On the distributor side, the original distributor was an MSD pro billet 8546. The ballast resistor appeared to be wired in like factory except for the small red wire for the MSD box being tapped into the left terminal on the ballast resistor.
The reluctor cracked on that one when I tried to clean rust off of it so I replaced the distributor with the same one from MSD. Then we decided I needed adjustable vac advance to get better idle so I bought a Summit 851018 which was recommended here. It is supposed to be a replacement for a Chrysler OEM distributor.

My question is with the summit distributor should the ballast resistor be used or bypassed? The reason I ask is because the instructions for the summit distributor says voltage at the coil + should only be 7 to 9 volts. And I am pretty sure the 6AL box always puts out 12 volts to coil positive?
Sorry but I never worked much with electronic ignition and want to make sure that the summit distributor will work correctly with an MSD 6AL box and that I have it wired correctly as far as the ballast resistor is concerned. To me it looks like the ballast resistor currently is only really being used to supply the 12 volts to the small red wire on the MSD box?

Thanks

​

 

[Dragon Slayer]

The distributor is not the reason for the ballast. The ballast protects the coil. Do you have the MSD instructions? You can download from web. MSD does not need the ballast, but there is a polarity to watch with the distributor. Since you did all this work, make sure you have the plugs and firing order correct for CCW rotation. Clocked correctly.
Since you swapped to a Chrysler type distributor do you have the wire going to the electronic distributor correct polarity wise. I don't think your issue is the carbs. If you have a weak spark, that can be your issue. Check the wiring against MSD instructions. Also make sure your getting your 12 volts to the MSD box and not some significant voltage drop due to wiring/connector issues.

 

[fmahannah]

Yes I have the instructions. Plug wires are correct, wiring for msd box tested correctly both the small red and the large red from the battery. Concerned about the resistor because I already killed one new coil since installing the summit distributor (or it was defective). I might switch back to the MSD pro billet 8546 just to elimate the summit distributor as the problem.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

How did you wire to the summit distributor, and do you have the + and neg correct to the magnetic pickup?

 

[fmahannah]

Purple and green connector on MSD box - green wired to orange on summit distributor, purple wired to black on summit distributor. Orange and black on summit distributor are the mag pickup wires
Green is nedative on MSD box I think. Maybe should have wired green to black and purple to orange? But the car does run the way it is hooked up now. If polarity was reversed would it still run?

Thanks

 

[fmahannah]

Actually I may have it wrong? The distributor instructions don't show wire colors or connections, but the MSD 6AL shows this. If the summit distributor is indeed a replacement for the chrysler then I have the mag pickup wires backwards?
What would that cause if true? Thanks

 

[Geoff 2]

[1] New Summit dist. Use it, the thinner reluctor tips give more accurate cyl-cyl timing than the junk MSD dist. Purple & green 6AL p/up wires. Purple connects to the orange wire from the dist & green 6AL connects to black wire from dist.
[2] The small 6AL red wire connects as per post #30. NOT through the bal res.
[3] The bal res can be left in the cct, it will not interfere with 6AL operation. For convenience, it is easier to leave it connected.

 

[fmahannah]

Then I do have the pickup wires backwards. I will try switching them tomorrow. Thanks

 

[Dragon Slayer]

You are welcome and I hope that is all it is after all you have been through!

 

[fmahannah]

You are welcome and I hope that is all it is after all you have been through!

How bad would having polarity reversed throw off the timing at speed I wonder?

 

[Geoff 2]

I have read that it advances the timing & the timing is also inconsistent, causing backfiring.

Something to beware of even with polarity correct. Lengthening the p/up wires for a more favourable location for the 'box' will not cause any problems. However, the p/up wires should be twisted together & kept close to a ground plane. Keep the wires away from:
- high tension leads
- the coil [ - ] lead

Because of the very low operating voltage of the p/up, a voltage induced in the wires can cause all sorts of odd things, backfiring, rough running etc. Doing the above will ensure this does not happen.

 

[Geoff 2]

To get the engine ready for an instant start, set up for 15* BTDC. The reluctor tip should be just past the centre of the pole piece in the direction of reluctor travel. This is the firing point. Because of slop in the dist drive, it is best to turn the crank with a wrench & watch the reluctor. Turn the dist body until 15* BTDC lines up as above.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

So did swapping leads work out?

 

[fmahannah]

It definitely changed the timing even at idle by a few degrees but have not had a chance to road test yet. Hope to do that tonight. I will let you know how it goes

 

[Barry Woodyard]

I have a 1963 Plymouth with a 426 Max wedge. Built with 11:1 compression Hydraulic Roller cam MSD ignition. Read all of the Horror stories from Chrysler about not idling and must warm the engine before driving.

When I first got the engine running and ever since I can start the car without touching the accelerator. Have the stock 3705 carbs rebuilt by me which is my first time rebuilding a carb. And this all fits under the hood with no modifications. Drives great 390 rears with MT 13" wide rear tires. Driving at 60 MPH at 2500 RPM I get 5 MPG

 

[fmahannah]

I have a 1963 Plymouth with a 426 Max wedge. Built with 11:1 compression Hydraulic Roller cam MSD ignition. Read all of the Horror stories from Chrysler about not idling and must warm the engine before driving.

When I first got the engine running and ever since I can start the car without touching the accelerator. Have the stock 3705 carbs rebuilt by me which is my first time rebuilding a carb. And this all fits under the hood with no modifications. Drives great 390 rears with MT 13" wide rear tires. Driving at 60 MPH at 2500 RPM I get 5 MPG

Yeah the gas mileage will probably limit how far I go to shows, but my cars are drivers so if I can't afford to drive it there I'm not going LOL. Sounds like yours is tuned pretty good to have easy starting and idling without electric chokes? Mine has factory dual manual chokes but I don't use them since they don't actually bump up the idle speed like modern chokes do