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Alternator gauge +++++

SMack

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So what would cause an alternator gauge to read 20+ all the time ?
Is this a bad thing ?
I don’t want to bypass it for an amp gauge. Virtually everything is new on this fresh build.

Thanks
Smack
 
His question is a little confusing because car probably has Amp meter and he doesn't want to put in an aftermarket amp meter. I just put in an electric pump and the amp meter is always on the plus side now, wasn't like that before electric pump. Pump draws a lot of amps so that's why it's on the plus side.
 
Another thought is the condition of the battery. If car isn't used on a regular basis battery could be low or possible old and not holding a charge.
 
Do you have accesories being sourced from batt or starter relay stud?

If so, that's incorrect and the ammeter is registering the load going throught to feed those accesories. Everything on car must be sourced from alt side of the ammeter like factory made ( between amm and alt post ) to get zero readings on a full batt status and alt able to feed all the car needs.

Otherwise you have a damaged batt or burnt/loosen wires at bulkhead
 
Last edited:
Thanks Guys, your all awesome. The gauge is in the dash , new from Redline. The whole car is new, every inch, 11 months on a rotator. The engine is a 511 full roller with a Six pack and A/C.
I haven't checked yet but I think Tony and Nacho nailed it. I run an electric fuel pump and I bet that's the cause. I'll check and see how the power is sourced for it. I know we wired in a toggle switch to turn it off and on so checking it will be simple.
thanks,
SMack
 
Make sure your voltage regulator is grounded good.
 
Hook anything on batt side with ammeters on car will be translated to the ammeter like is being charging the batt, while is not, but feeding the accs on the batt side. That adds lot of unnecesary stress on ammeter and terminals... then everybody begins to ask why my charging network begins to get burnt, LOL ( aside is true stock alts never were enough to keep the charge on batt )
 
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