Alternator stops charging

[Nacho-RT74]

El término “full field” se denomina a darle total alimentación a los campos de voltaje (positivo y negativo) saltándose el regulador. Eso descartaría si el problema es del mismo alternador o del regulador y los circuitos relacionados.

Ese alternador es llamado comúnmente single field. SE SUELE llamar así porque se alimenta por cable a solo uno de los campos. En este caso el positivo que viene del regulador, que es un regulador electromecánico.

El otro campo es el que no lleva cable y es el campo negativo, que lo toma por tierra de Chassis.

Al poner el contacto en posición Ign1 (RUN) el alternador recibe el positivo por el cable y el negativo por chasis y eso genera la posibilidad de hacer el campo magnético al comenzar a girar.

Veo que el que venden también le ponen una arandela. Bueno, igual el soporte del carbón está haciendo tierra. Debería ser suficiente.

Los alternadores “dual field” son los que llevan un cable para cada campo y se empezaron a usar en el 70… dos en total (no tienen un carbón directo a tierra como el tuyo, sino que ambos tienen terminal y están aislados de chasis) por eso DUAL. Esos se alimentan distinto con un regulador electrónico que funciona totalmente distinto, pero no hablemos de eso ahora, primero a poner a funcionar el tuyo.

Pues eso, revisa primero si le llega corriente al cable del terminal del carbón del alternador al pasar la llave.

Si le llega corriente y asumiendo que el carbón a tierra está bien aterrado, el problema está en el alternador mismo. Habría que detallar que puede estar fallando en el alternador. De ser así, te voy diciendo como chequear lo para saber que puede estar fallando del alternador

Si no le llega corriente, pasamos al regulador:

Con la llave pasada revisa si le llega corriente al cable azul del regulador (en el regulador debe decir IGN). Si le llega corriente revisa si sale corriente al otro lado del regulador que es el que alimenta el carbón del alternador.

Si en la salida del regulador hay voltaje, puede ser el cable del regulador al alternador que esté malo.

Si no hay voltaje en la salida del regulador, puede ser el regulador malo o con fallo de tierra. El regulador debe estar bien aterrado. Se aterra a través del chasis, directo por los tornillos a la pared de fuego.

Si la entrada del regulador (IGN) no tiene voltaje es un problema en ese cable. Ese cable recibe voltaje del mismo circuito de encendido que alimenta la resistencia. Como el motor enciende, asumimos que el circuito está operativo, así que podría ser que el cable mismo que alimenta el regulador esté fallando.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Otra cosa que puede estar fallando es que el alternador y el regulador estén TOTALMENTE OPERATIVOS, pero que la corriente de alimentación del alternador NO ESTÉ llegando a la batería. Y eso suel ser algo muy fácil de detectar… el enchufe de la pared de fuego quemado en el paso del cable negro desde el terminal BATT hasta la el interior cabina, haciendo que la alimentación de recarga no pase y que solo esté siendo alimentado por batería… algo muy típico en los Mopars.

Tu coche tiene aún el amperímetro operativo en el cuadro?

 

[Shut]

Nacho si tiene el amperimetro operativo en el cuadro. Cuando giro la llave a la primera posicion previa a arranque noto que la aguja del amperimetro baja un poco

Cuando te refieres al terminal del carbon a cual te refieres al de arriba que pone BAT o al de abajo que pone FLD?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Field… FLD. En ingles son “brushes” que yo al menos siempre he llamado “carbones” porque son piezas de carbón que hacen contacto con las pistas del rotor.



El conector BATT es una conexión directa a la batería pasando por el amperímetro. Es la salida del alternador para alimentar el sistema y recargar la batería.

Que el amperímetro marque descarga al pasar la llave es normal. Pero si siempre marca descarga y no te hayas dado cuenta hasta que te quedaste sin batería no es normal. El amperímetro es para eso

 

[Shut]

Gracias Nacho. Intentare comprobar todo lo que me comentas y te digo que ha pasado

Otra cosa si tengo que comprar alternador…. Que amperaje seria recomendable?? Lleva aire acondicionado (aftermarket), y ventiladores electricos (3)

Gracias por todo

 

[Shut]

Comprobamos la salida del alternador con el multimetro y daba 12 voltios justos, cuando lo normal es que de 13,8 voltios mas o menos

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No entendiste… lo que hay que ver es si le llega voltaje al cable que va del regulador al alternador… para saber si es el alternador o el regulador.

Lo siguiente es alimentar el FLD con 12 voltios, que puedes hacerlo tomando la corriente desde BAT

 

[Shut]

Si, entiendo que tengo que hacer esas comprobaciones para descartar si es alternador o regulador.

Te decia lo de la medicion por dar algun dato mas y poder ir descartando cosas

Gracias por todo

 

[Sparky Anderson]

Don't go to a bigger alternator, unless you up grade the wire coming off it, a good chance of creating a roman candle ! Better yet Dead Dodge Garage just put out a video on this subject on YouTube, as a matter of fact he's also a member on this site, he'll answer all of your questions. Check him out.

 

[Shut]

Thank you very much. Im going to see the video

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Don't go to a bigger alternator, unless you up grade the wire coming off it, a good chance of creating a roman candle ! Better yet Dead Dodge Garage just put out a video on this subject on YouTube, as a matter of fact he's also a member on this site, he'll answer all of your questions. Check him out.

Yes but no… I mean:
-firts step is upgrade the alt for a one with better output able to feed all the load demands at the lower speed as posible (better at idle).
-next, source everything accordingly to the stock system. Any added accesory MUST be sourced from alt side, never on batt if the plan is keep the ammeter in line.
-next, check ALL the system… bulkhead conditions, ammeter conditions, inside and outside. Sure for better checking ammeter procedure is remove the cluster and check it ALL… studs to shunt, insulators.
-THEN, upgrade the wiring accordingly.

Sooooo is not simply just get in a bigger alt and bigger wires… is EVERYTHING

BUT at this moment priority is diagnose the failure. Then take the decisions.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Don't go to a bigger alternator, unless you up grade the wire coming off it, a good chance of creating a roman candle ! Better yet Dead Dodge Garage just put out a video on this subject on YouTube, as a matter of fact he's also a member on this site, he'll answer all of your questions. Check him out.

Can't agree to anything in this advice. The Challenger “shunt wire” video? Carful with that information, he does not seem to get how that parallel battery to alternator shunt wire, even with its own fusible link, negatively alters the overall circuit protection for the stock unfused wiring. It increases the potential of an electrical fire in the event of a short in the stock unfused circuits.
Just noticed the disagree button is no longer present, when did that happen?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok, so is one more of those jumping out the system… great… so I won’t run to check it LOL

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Ok, so is one more of those jumping out the system… great… so I won’t run to check it LOL

The guy (at Dead Dodge Garage) does have a grasp on the big picture of this charging system but doesn’t take any detail corrections to his opinions very well. Have attempted to challenge some past misinformation via comments but always met with hostile retorts and/or comments counter to his opinions are then deleted. Went on a hostile rant about one of my challenges on one of his live feeds a while back, just happened to be watching at the time, included some middle finger waving to the camera. Still ranting in that mentioned Challenger “shunt wire” video a bit it would appear, pretty sure the “pedant” and not caring about using correct terminology references is intended to be a dig resulting from my previous correction comments.

 

[RJRENTON]

The guy does have a grasp on the big picture of this charging system but doesn’t take any detail corrections to his opinions very well. Have attempted to challenge some past misinformation via comments but always met with hostile retorts and/or comments counter to his opinions are then deleted. Went on a hostile rant about one of my challenges on one of his live feeds a while back, just happened to be watching at the time, included some middle finger waving to the camera. Still ranting in that mentioned Challenger “shunt wire” video a bit it would appear, pretty sure the “pedant” and not caring about using correct terminology references is intended to be a dig resulting from my previous correction comments.

I totally agree with your assessment of "good 'Ole Nacho.....he is a one trick pony, who has Zero concept of the vehicles electricial system and fundamentals of Ohm's law and Kirkoffs laws and keeps regurgitating the same verbiage. The problem is people that know nothing about electrical systems, think he is knowledgeable....nothing is further from the truth...when asked for calculations to support his claims, he cannot....take what he proposes at your own risk......BTW....this is America, we speak American....not Spanish....get with program......
BOB RENTON

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I totally agree with your assessment of "good 'Ole Nacho.....he is a one trick pony, who has Zero concept of the vehicles electricial system and fundamentals of Ohm's law and Kirkoffs laws and keeps regurgitating the same verbiage. The problem is people that know nothing about electrical systems, think he is knowledgeable....nothing is further from the truth...when asked for calculations to support his claims, he cannot....take what he proposes at your own risk......BTW....this is America, we speak American....not Spanish....get with program......
BOB RENTON

Bob,

To be clear, I was referring to Mr. Attwood at Dead Dodge Garage who posted the mentioned “Shunt wire” video. Promoting this direct battery to alternator parallel approach as making this system safer, apparently not understanding how the paralleled fusible links, or in some cases with no circuit protection at all, poses a significant threat in the event of a short in the unfused stock wiring due to the basic electrical fundamentals you mention.

 

[RJRENTON]

Bob,

To be clear, I was referring to Mr. Attwood at Dead Dodge Garage who posted the mentioned “Shunt wire” video. Promoting this direct battery to alternator parallel approach as making this system safer, apparently not understanding how the paralleled fusible links, or in some cases with no circuit protection at all) poses a significant threat in the event of a short in the unfused stock wiring due to the basic electrical fundamentals you mention.

Who is "Mr. Atwood" and Dead Dodge Garage? Is he a mechanic working at a dealership or an Engineer working for a automotive manufacturer or just someone that decided to publish his own "blog".....what are his credentials or background....who decides that his approach is safer.....parallel fuse links?....protecting the same circuit???? I'll stick with the basic engineering fundamentals and practices.....thank you........
BOB RENTON

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Jamie Attwood, Dead Dodge Garage is a YouTube channel, he appears to be the latest rising YouTube star, know it all, “Mopar Expert”. Thirty something, self-describes as, “not exactly a trained expert in the field of automotive electrical but I do have years and years of practical experience”. Full time YouTube now I think he said, sounds like part-time at a smaller local Mopar restoration shop. Cites Uncle Tony on YouTube as a source of some of his Mopar expertise/knowledge on occasion.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Do You see that you DON’T KNOW READ?. LOL

BTW… THIS IS AMERICA:

Called like that due Americo Vespucio, who BTW began his explorations in what is now VENEZUELA, and beginning from that he took the conclusion Columbus didn’t arrived to a group of islands but to a full “new” continent. Hence why is named into his honor. Never explored what is now U.S.A. BTW.

And WHAT KIND OF LANGUAGE IS “AMERICAN”?

JUST TO LET YOU KNOW, U.S.A. DOESN’T HAVE AN OFICIAL LANGUAGE, JUST A PREDOMINANT LANGUAGE which BTW is ENGLISH (you know, that language coming from England/U.K.? Hence why is called English) , but if you say in U.S.A. you speak “American”, well, spanish is nowdays an AMERICAN language just like english is. So I was posting in “AMERICAN”

Do you know also, a lot of cities, counties, and some states get their flags based or inspired on the SPANISH IMPERIAL FLAG due their earliers origins being part of the Spanish Empire? Maybe that’s not too much “American” for you.

Not too bad for an “uneducated”, Huh!?

Aside this, we are actually at the WWW… which stands for WORLD Wide Web.

 

[kiwigtx]

Cites Uncle Tony on YouTube as a source of some of his Mopar expertise/knowledge on occasion.

So, in other words, the guy is a parroting retard.

Monkey see Monkey do. UTG is a waste of air-play.