Alternator wiring for battery relocate

[64furyous]

Hey guys,
I've searched this a bit and I didn't come up with anything so apologies if this has been asked and answered.

I have a 64 plymouth that I am relocating the battery to the trunk... i know, hang in there for a second.

I'm trying to come up with a simple solution to the car proceeding to run after the battery disconnect is shut off.

The battery charge wire from the alternator goes through the bulk head and into the dash wiring, what appears to supply the interior/dash with power.

My question is can I put the pre-existing wire that would go on the alternator onto a ign power post and run a new charge wire to my remote battery before the shut off to rectify that issue.

Only thing I can think is the factory ammeter in the cluster would not work which I am perfectly fine with.

I was planning on trying it but thought I'd use you guys vast knowledge first.

Thank you

 

[Kern Dog]

Keep this in mind:
Relocating the battery to the trunk will add weight to the car. The extra cables and wiring will add at least 20 lbs and add complexity. Why not keep the battery up front and switch to a lightweight lithium titanate design?
I have a trunk mounted setup in my Charger and I’m thinking of switching back to a traditional front located battery again but using one that is smaller and a LOT lighter. The battery I have is 40 lbs. The cables could be as much as 20 lbs. A lithium battery weighs as little as 7 lbs, saving almost 50 lbs once the shorter cables are factored in.

 

[64furyous]

In all honesty kern dog it's mostly about looks. I can say it's for weight transfer blah blah but really it's a looks thing. I'm building this car into a some what super stock "tribute" car, potentially eventually being a "street freak". Goal with the car is a fun street strip car. I had goals of putting my hemi in there and the battery relocate was to make room. Plans change so the 440 got a minor rebuild for the time being. I have glass fenders and bumpers so far, hoods next on the list. I believe this is a original max wedge hood so it'll be wall art. It's a canadian car so the fender tag tells you absolutely nothing.

Thanks for the reply, I enjoy the vast knowledge and different opinions of everyone on this forum.

 

[Kern Dog]

This is just for appearances? Why do such a thing ???

Kidding! I’ve done plenty of things just for the look of it. I do understand.
Cheers!

 

[RemCharger]

Why not just run the big wire to the batt and call it a day? No real need for the cut off?

 

[64furyous]

Why not just run the big wire to the batt and call it a day? No real need for the cut off?

Good question, I have intentions of getting back into drag racing with this car. (I know it'll be slower then all heck). According to nhra rules if the battery isn't in the factory location you need a disconnect that will shut the car down. There's also rules about disconnects under a certain e.t. but that obviously is a non issue.

In my mind I can take that original charge wire and put it on a power source and everything will be just dandy, maybe I'll test everything before I wrap the harness up.

 

[oldbee]

Do what I did. Chop battery positive close to original battery, join a new #1(2) gauge (welding cable) to that cut original cable and to trunk. New negative to metal there. Add a disconnect wherever you want. Everything else is original, been like that for 40+yrs.

 

[Don Frelier]

Keep this in mind:
Relocating the battery to the trunk will add weight to the car. The extra cables and wiring will add at least 20 lbs and add complexity. Why not keep the battery up front and switch to a lightweight lithium titanate design?
I have a trunk mounted setup in my Charger and I’m thinking of switching back to a traditional front located battery again but using one that is smaller and a LOT lighter. The battery I have is 40 lbs. The cables could be as much as 20 lbs. A lithium battery weighs as little as 7 lbs, saving almost 50 lbs once the shorter cables are factored in.

I seriously doubt that the extra wire weighs 20 lb.
And no way am I putting a lithium battery in either of my vehicles.

 

[dadsbee]

Weigh 20' of #1 copper. From foggy memory it, BARE, weighs about 0.32lbs / foot. Add extended alternator wiring if required, remote solenoid, maybe a disconnect switch and we're getting there....

I hear ya on the lithium..

 

[QuickBpBp]

I seriously doubt that the extra wire weighs 20 lb.
And no way am I putting a lithium battery in either of my vehicles.

It's about 1/2 that. 20ft of 2 gauge welding cable weighs about a 1/2 lb per foot so 10lbs... It's what I used in my '74 Road Runner. The car with me in it was over 4,000lbs so 10lbs of wire wasn't really a concern.. It's a tank.. LOL

 

[Kern Dog]

I seriously doubt that the extra wire weighs 20 lb.

Add it up. There is maybe 16-17’ of #1 copper wire for the lead to the starter, 16’ of a #4 for a ground from the block to the battery, a 24” #4 for a secondary ground from the battery to the chassis, a trigger wire from the stock relay to the FORD starter solenoid, the battery shell is heavier than a stock battery tray too.

And no way am I putting a lithium battery in either of my vehicles.

I hear ya on the lithium..

I don’t expect to change anyones mind but not all lithium batteries are the same. I’m not usually a safety conscious person except when it comes to fire. I would not put myself at risk if I doubted the safety. Lithium Titanate is not the same as lithium ion or whatever else caught fire in cell phones and scooters.